Need to replace the Clutch in my Disco Whats involved ?

[stevepage3]

Hi

My clutch has started to make a lot of noise when in neutral with foot off the pedal, when you press the pedal the noise changes to a squealing noise.

I think it is time to change the clutch, is it possible to do myself and what sort of costs are we talking about.

Steve

[meader]

transfer box and gear box out but its bloody heavy best thing to do is seperate the two as it will be easyier to remove that way i did mine that way led on my back on the drive

[chris9119]

Easy enough job, once you've done a dozen or so...., ask me how I know.

I wouldn't split the units as you could damage the seal on the transfer box when mating the boxes.

Would recommend that you replace all parts when you do it, full clutch, new fork (welded up), fork pivot bracket, etc.

Good quality parts will cost circa £160.00.

Would recommend using one of these: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cml2-hydraulic-motorcycle-lift/path/vehicle-lifts Makes the job very easy...., wish I new about these before....

Garage would probably charge in the region of £300.00/£400.00 for the labour....

The West Midlands regional members complete these type of tasks as part of their maintenance weekends......

[bodgeitjo]

there is the posibility that it is the main shaft in the gearbox that is makin the noise, mine was the same for a few months then went bang. look in haynes manual they tell symptoms in trouble shooting. hope im wrong on this one as mines doing the same agian. and ive only had this one 5 months.

[stevepage3]

How long would you think it would take to change it over.

[old joe]

if unsure speak to Joe Edwards in Leighton Buzzard

Dazza :lol:

[chris9119]

How long would you think it would take to change it over.

Should take a day to do, with a couple more hours putting the centre consul back together again.

[mud knight]

Chris you forgot to tell him about patience and brut force :doh:

[spud the king]

and the nuts and bolts that are left over    did you find them all mud knight!!!!

[stuntman]

I popped the engine out to do mine, 3 hours to get the engine out, that was with tea breaks etc, but 6 hours to try to get it back together!

eventually left it and tried next day, only took 2 hours next day, I did take out all the treaded studs and replaced with threaded bar, that allowed me to pull the engine GENTLY together, rotating the crank to make sure everything was ok.

Not a job for the feint hearted really as it's quite a heavy job to do on your own  ;)

[clover]

Just doing mine at the moment.

Its needed doing for a while as the thrust bearing has been on its last legs since last November! Mine made a funny noise as you depressed the clutch and you get a horrid vibration through the pedal. 

Mine was beginning to slip under load up hills as well.

Right the order of bat is this.



Remove centre console and unscrew the plates holding the rubber gaiter to the gearbox. undo and remove the top half of the gear lever.

Get you vehicle up as high as you can safely.

Remove prop shafts (both of them) from the Xfer box.

Remove exhaust down pipe and hook the rear exhaust section off its rubbers so it can be moved to one side.

Undo the two bolts holding the gearbox mount to the gearbox chassis cross brace.

Undo bolts holding the cross brace MAKING SURE you jack up the gearbox so its supported before removing the bolts!

Remove the cross brace from between the chassis rails (a big long piece of scaffold pole between the brace and the gearbox is the easiest way (brute force required!).

Undo all the nuts and bolts on the bell housing.

Remove Hand brake cable, speedometer cable and reversing switch.

Gently lower the gearbox at the back until the levers are free from the bodywork and slide gearbox off and backwards until you have enough access to get at the clutch and to change the fork and thrust bearing.

Should take you about 2 hours (even quicker if you have the proper tool to make removing the prop shaft nuts quicker job!).

Then do the same in reverse order.

HTH

John

[clover]

Just doing mine at the moment.

Its needed doing for a while as the thrust bearing has been on its last legs since last November! Mine made a funny noise as you depressed the clutch and you get a horrid vibration through the pedal. 

Mine was beginning to slip under load up hills as well.

Right the order of bat ona 200TDI is this.

Remove centre console and unscrew the plates holding the rubber gaiter to the gearbox. undo and remove the top half of the gear lever.

Get you vehicle up as high as you can safely.

Remove prop shafts (both of them) from the Xfer box.

Remove exhaust down pipe and hook the rear exhaust section off its rubbers so it can be moved to one side.

Undo the two bolts holding the gearbox mount to the gearbox chassis cross brace.

Undo bolts holding the cross brace MAKING SURE you jack up the gearbox so its supported before removing the bolts!

Remove the cross brace from between the chassis rails (a big long piece of scaffold pole between the brace and the gearbox is the easiest way (brute force required!).

Undo all the nuts and bolts on the bell housing.

Remove Hand brake cable, speedometer cable and reversing switch.

Gently lower the gearbox at the back until the levers are free from the bodywork and slide gearbox off and backwards until you have enough access to get at the clutch and to change the fork and thrust bearing.

Should take you about 2 hours (even quicker if you have the proper tool to make removing the prop shaft nuts quicker job!).

Then do the same in reverse order.

HTH

John

[stevepage3]

Thanks John

That was very informative. hopefully it won't be to different on the V8. I have had a look underneath and am a bit concerned by what I think are the pipes to the oil cooler in the front, do you need to remove these or can they just be pushed to one side.

Steve