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hand break adjustment
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Topic: hand break adjustment (Read 698 times)
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meader
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hand break adjustment
«
on:
April 23, 2008, 16:44:15 »
i have a 300tdi and my handbreak is slowly getting higher and higher now on six clicks b4 it holds the motor can they be adjusted and how
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i only go in as far as my nuts
chris9119
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The New Big Boy, Gert...
Lordswood, Kent
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #1 on:
April 23, 2008, 17:21:15 »
Your cable has stretched. If you remove the hand brake surround, the plastic/leather gaiter, you should see the handbrake cable attachment to the handbrake handle. There should be a nut or the end coming through the floor should have two flat sides for a spanner. Turn it anti-clockwise (I think) and the slack cable should be taken up.., the handbrake should be down whilst doing this...
Bobs your uncle, jobs a good en...
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Chris
Si hoc adfixum in obice legere potes, et liberaliter educatus et nimis propinquus ades
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Mud-Clubbers do it on channel 30
Range Rover Blues
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #2 on:
April 23, 2008, 17:55:17 »
Is it the cable, or the handbrake itself? the manul warns not to use the cable adjustment to overcome a worn handbrake drum (I think they drum is easier to adjust myself).
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Blue, 1988 Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.
chris9119
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The New Big Boy, Gert...
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #3 on:
April 23, 2008, 18:03:24 »
1st step, take up the slack...., 5-15 mins, max
2nd step, check pads ..., an hour + (take off prop, handbrake drum end, remove brake drum, check pads, all ok, put back together)
2nd step (a) ...., one to two hours, (take off prop, handbrake drum end, remove brake drum, fit new shoes, fit drum and adjust pads, refit prop, adjust handbrake cable to suit + or -)
No which one I would try first ;)
ps: in four years I've only ever changed the pads once and that was due to an oil leak.., 90% of the time, its the cable
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Chris
Si hoc adfixum in obice legere potes, et liberaliter educatus et nimis propinquus ades
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Mud-Clubbers do it on channel 30
clbarclay
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #4 on:
April 23, 2008, 21:34:52 »
Depends whether its cable stretch, pad wear or both.
Unless disco hand brakes are quite different to RRC then there should also be a screw with a square head on the brake backplate, on the opposite side to the cable/slider mechanism. This is for adjusting the pads closer to the drum. If the cable is adjusted to take up wear in the pads then you can potetially run out of movement on then slider mechanism. It shouldn't take more than 5 minuets to make sure the pads are set correctly with the screw.
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Chris
Various range rovers from 1986 to 1988 in various states
Locost sports car based on mk2 escort - currently working on brakes, fuel and wiring
clover
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Clover
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #5 on:
April 24, 2008, 09:42:58 »
You need to adjust the handbrake on the drum and then adjust the cable.
On mine there is a square adjuster (I think the 300TDI has a different type of adjuster) on the back plate of the drum brake. On mine its on the side towards the top. With the hand brake off and vehicle chocked. slacken the cable off underneath and with one hand moving the drum slightly wind up the adjuster until you just start to get resistance on the drum. Back it off ever so slightly so its not dragging. Then adjust the cable so the handbrake lever comes up the required amount of clicks.
«
Last Edit: April 24, 2008, 09:52:59 by discopinky
»
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1996 Discovery 300TDi Affectionately known as Clover.
Cooper Discover STT 33/12.50/R15, a 2" body lift off chassis. H/D springs with 50mm platform spacers on the rear. Nothing on the front as they foul the shocks :-) 11" travel rough country shocks and mountings with dislocating spring cones, adjusted wheel arches, safari snorkel. H/D rear bumper, demountable drop plate,. H/D steering guard, QT diff guards.
tree sliders, Split charge running twin Optima's, spotlight bar with 4 whoppers on it, H/D winch bumper, 12,000lbs winch, A bar with 2 50w mini spotlights, brownchurch full length roof rack. 2 work lights.CB,
Fine English engineering modified to work!
burgerman
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #6 on:
April 24, 2008, 14:40:19 »
Or bite the bullet and fit a x-brake :lol:
Landy ones work for sure but do require cleaning/ adjustment, but not looked back since i fitted my brake :clap:
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TD5 with a few Tweaks ;o)
a bit more fuel friendly than the V8
4 landies
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #7 on:
April 24, 2008, 18:07:13 »
Is the adjustment the same on a TD5 disco
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2008 khartoum
2001 td5 disco
1997 300tdi disco
1981 series 3 lightweight
stageonesimmo
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Re: hand break adjustment
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Reply #8 on:
April 24, 2008, 21:46:51 »
Dunno about TD5, but the bolt for the adjuster is a 17mm located at the base of the back-plate. Standard practice on the work fleet is to wind the adjuster on the drum in first before going for the cable, easiest way of doing it by far so I know which way it always gets done on mine.....
[hint you wont be able to see the cable adjuster for crud as its never been touched in the 5 years I've had it...]
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Son, life has a habit of kicking you in the ass and i only have vague recollections of when it wasn't kickin mine!
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