can i get an off the shelf 4" body lift?

[windowlicker]

is there anywhere that sells a 4" body lift if so where?

alternatively what will i need for the job as i could just have someone turn some spacers out for me but i dont know what lenth or thread of bolt i require so if any one has the low down please let me know

cheers
kev

[windowlicker]

i have just had a word with my cousin whos going to turn me some spacers 50mm diameter 100mm long with a 11mm hole through.

from what i can mak out i need 3/8 unf bolts but 200mm long where can i find these?

now off to search for  more info ie steering shaft :-k

[karlo]

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Wizardbilt_Discovery-1-body-lift-kits_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ9594661QQftidZ2QQtZkm

[windowlicker]

cheers for the link i looked at them earlier but they are only 50mm and the bolts are also 50mm shorter than i need

[ukmudmaster]

Why not buy a length of studding and weld/braze a nut on? A cheap and easy job.
Dont know about the steering shaft, how much longer does it need to be?
Dave

[lee celtic]

we use these..

http://www.anixter.co.uk/AXECOM/UK.NSF/ProductsTechnology/SolutionsAnixterFastenersAboutUs

They supply every type of nut bolt and thread going...Though they are industrial supply so you may have to buy a box,But they are cheap..

You could also try http://www.custom-fasteners.co.uk/ Mainly bike stuff but they do sell hardened studs up tp 8" (you just put a nut on both ends)

[windowlicker]

cheers for the info lads i never thought of threaded bar as i was unsure if the threaded part was in the body so i assume that its just a nut and bolt?

[lee celtic]

Yep just a nut and bolt though I think the theaded bar might be a bit soft.

if you can get bolts long enough the thread won't matter. but the head of the bolts may have to drop through holes in the floor or cross member to go through the body mounts so check the head size as well...:D

[clover]

Get yourself some proper bolts and locking nuts as there is a lot of stress put through those bolts. You would be amazed how much the body shell twists!

[karlo]

cheers for the link i looked at them earlier but they are only 50mm and the bolts are also 50mm shorter than i need

Yes but it has bolt diameters on there  ;)

[clover]

I assume you have not overlooked the fact that you also will need custom built tie rods (x4) and also the packing spacers for the 4 boot floor supports.

There is a lot of stuff you need to consider when doing a 4" lift apart from the steering rod not being long enough.

For one thing the radiator is going to have to drop 4"!

You will need to replace all the brake flexi hoses. If yours is a manual then you most likely may need to extend the clutch flexi hose as well.

You will have to make some sort of custom extension for the diff lock lever as a 4" drop will mean it will disappear into the floor tunnel. You will probably need to extend the gear lever as well.

Then there is all kinds of stuff connected to the engine and chassis like wiring and earth leads etc that may well need relocating perhaps.

[Disco Matt]

I'm not convinced making bolts from threaded rod is a good idea for this - AFAIK that stuff isn't the right sort of steel. The June issue of Total Off Road has an article about fabrication which included some information on how to pick the right bolts for this sort of thing. I do remember that they need to have a strength rating (marked on the bolt head with raised "dashes" radiating from the centre) but I don't remember how many dashes equated to what strength.

The general advice seemed to be "buy bolts with as many dashes as you can find".  :lol:

[wizard]

Dont use threaded rod. Its far to soft.
just to prove it, take a bit of rod 150mm long and bend it by hand in a vice, now do the same with a bolt..

You will battle to find high tensile bolts the lenght you require. You are looking at 225 - 250mm long. I had a hard time getting the 6 inch UNF bolts for the 2 inch body kits listed on e bay. Metric will be easier to come by.
The biggest problem you will have is finding bolts.

The radiator is mounted on the chassis so you will need to lift it a bit to line it up with the grill.
You will need to extend the steering shaft, the gear nad transfer box levers and the fuel filler pipe.
The tie rods and rear floor mounts are easy enough (i can supply these)as well as the body spacers if you like.

Good luck

wizard :twisted:

[Disco Matt]

Right, I've got the article in front of me which I didn't have earlier. For SAE bolts the markings are as follows:

Grade 5 has three markings

Grade 8 has six markings

and apparently you should only use grade five or above on vehicles. Metric hardware apparently has an equivelent system where the strength is stamped on the head of the bolt as a number (they quote 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 as common ones).

[windowlicker]

thanks for the input i didnt mention the other bits as they are somthing i can over come as i will be doing it in a fully kitted out workshop with plenty of steel laying about and a 250amp welder to play with however as its a workshop for plant there is no ramp so i will use a digger to lift the body.

cheers for the offer wizard i should have some spacers coming today fingers crossed as for the floor spacers i dont think i need them as i have welded a frame in the boot and made a steel floor that is rivited and sealed to the frame however one of the new crossmembers i made was welded to the body and the chassis not such a good idea :oops:

the tie rods: i was hoping i could make some up or extend the originals

the wiring: have plenty of wire and cables laying about so fingers crossed i should be ok

gear and hi/low stick: this may cause me problems with the extra amount of throw they will have but i will suck it and see

filler neck: what is the id of the pipe i may need to find somthing to extend it as i dont think i could just put a longer peice of pipe in as there is quite a bend in the original again could be wrong

clutch flexi: pirtek or simlar local cheaper option

radiator/intercooler: unsure how much movement they have so will see what i can do

steering colum: again unsure but will have somthing kicking about that i can use

bolts: still unsure but maybee some headbolts of some sort as ive seen some monster long ones (just an idea)
does any body know how much you can drill out of a body mount bush as it might be easier to find a fatter bolt in the lenth required?

[windowlicker]

Right, I've got the article in front of me which I didn't have earlier. For SAE bolts the markings are as follows:

Grade 5 has three markings

Grade 8 has six markings

and apparently you should only use grade five or above on vehicles. Metric hardware apparently has an equivelent system where the strength is stamped on the head of the bolt as a number (they quote 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 as common ones).

cheers for that i will deffo use the info as i dont want anything breaking off due to somthing as simple as a bolt

cheers
kev

[mentalmoshio sophs V8i]

why do u want a 4 inch lift anyway with that u most be close to a 8 inch lift overall plus those massive tyres . the centre of gravity will be very high. plus hight issues in woodland or forest off roading  :|

[windowlicker]

why do u want a 4 inch lift anyway with that u most be close to a 8 inch lift overall plus those massive tyres . the centre of gravity will be very high. plus hight issues in woodland or forest off roading  :|

i see what your saying as at the minute it allready is 7" higher than standard although the back is 9" over standard as for some reason the +2 hd springs lifted the back 115mm 4.5"!!!

what i want to achieve is to regain the upwards travel ive lost since fitting these wheels but more to the point is that the wheels catch the arches when driving on the road so i need 4" at least and even then im not sure how much the axle will twist before it catches again!

as for being top heavy im not that worried as the wheel track is nearly 6" wider so should make up for the hight and with the hd springs its very stiff and even with the rear roll bar removed i get very little body roll (as it is)

[windowlicker]

well i now have the spacers not as pretty as yours wizard but they were free so cant complain
also my cousin has ordered some m10x200mm high tensile bolts for the company he works for as they really need them ;) so again free of charge bit of luck they are long enough but if not i will get him to fit studs in both ends of the spacers :-k

[lee celtic]

Photos when finished please please please [-o< :lol:

[clover]

Never mind the pictures tell us how you did it!!! :drool:  :drool:  :drool: i.e. what problems you had and how you overcame them - especially unforeseen ones not already mentioned. Then tell how its drives!

[windowlicker]

no problem i will take pics whilst doing it although im unsure when it will be as i want it done before the new baby comes (any time soon) but need a car to go to hospital when i comes will try and get a work van but i also have a wedding to attend in under two weeks so litte time :(

but just to start it off heres a before pic well to only side on one i have


[IMG

[windowlicker]

Never mind the pictures tell us how you did it!!! :drool:  :drool:  :drool: i.e. what problems you had and how you overcame them - especially unforeseen ones not already mentioned. Then tell how its drives!

it might be more of how i failed to do it lol

the main thing thats whirling round in my mind is what to do with the high/low stick as there isnt more more room for movment and having 4" extra throw its gonna need a lot of room but i guess i will figure that out at the time :-k

[clover]

I too have thought much about this issue. I tried to extend mine (when I did the 2" body lift) but found extending it did not work very well as the lever just fouled the gear lever. The problem as I see is that the hi-low lever is angled and in order to extend it I think you really need to bent it straight. Quite how you would do that I don't know. I was too chicken to do it as I did not want to break anything!

[windowlicker]

did the 2" body lift on yours affect your handling much? i would imagine that if you fully loaded you roof rack it will be about the same as lifting it another 2" lol

[clover]

The only thing I noticed was a bit more body roll on occasion. But since I fitted H/D springs and new shocks its been solid as a rock.

Its not at all like the old Range Rover I had that used to roll about all over the place even with the H/D springs!

[stuntman]

My old 60mm lift increased the roll significantly, although I did build a roof rack at the same time  ;)

[windowlicker]

after hearing both your comments it dont sound like body roll is going to be much of an issue as im allready on hd spings that are stiff and with the extra width ive all ready got should i hope stop it falling over fingers crossed although i was intending to replace the springs with softer ones as the ride is a bit rough and the fact it sits 2" higher on the back

i will just have to wait and see what happens but as it stands i still have no bolts yet :(

[mikiep1986]

what i have used on my body lift is threaded rods and there working fine and holding well also i have 8 metres of threaded rod left ? m10 which is the size needed if wanted im selling them for £2 each i used 2 rods on mine but bought 10 lol

 but yea their there if wanted dude