diff rebuild confirmation

[markyb]

I decided I would change the pinion bearings on my front diff as lots of movement in the drive flange. ( should have just tightened them.

cutting a long story short anyone do this a lot and can confirm the below.. I will try to explain :-)

Replaced the pinion bearing and shimmed it up etc torqued the pinion .. but we were reading the manual and it states with new bearings that the pinion should take 22lbs, could have been 33lbs per inch on a torque wrench to rotate the pinion with new bearings

Applling the right torque to the flange nut after removing a shim Ive set the torque wrench to 22LBS and although the pinion is tight it move before the torque wrench clicks.  It appears to be right but Im used to crush sleeve type diffs that are free to turn by hand .


Anyone come a cross this and can confirm its the right way. it would make sense that the bearings will settle in and i presume this will prevent slack appearing. when turing the pinion there is no horrible noises etc.

[extreme90]

when i do them i do it by touch, dont use settings or dial guage
built up dozens of air lockers now, and even fixed blown diffs and not one has gone wrong

i take it you have done it dry and not with lubed bearings ?
they should be free to turn by hand still

[markyb]

lightly greased.

I wondered if the reason it had come loose before was due to it being done by hand.   Im in agreement with you it seemsa bit strange

will read it again tonight to be sure, I am tempted to slacken off so it free to spin even if it means i have to adjust a couple of months down the line

[extreme90]

you've overtightend it
when assembling gearbox's diffs ect, do them dry , as a little lube gives a little less friction, so all torque settings go out of the window
slacken it off abit on the shim's and she will be fine  ;)

[markyb]

ta , i agree, its too tight . re reading the book of lies i see now its the sort of pre torque.

gone with done by feel and she good.  cheers for the second opinions