3" body lift on Vitara

[fozuki]

Just wondering if I can get some help from someone out there regarding my Vit. I've put an L A Supertrux body lift on it with some juicy 31, 10.50, 15 BFG MT's now sat under the arches. Some nice suspension is going to follow. It has to be said that the kit went on fine but the gear levers, gaitors and centre console are being an arse.

What are some good solid tips for getting the levers right so I can get the thing on some lanes :).

I just want to make sure that it stays water tight using the standard parts, just a bit modified if thats possible.

Cheers

[suzota]

turn the rubber gaiter upside down so it sticks downwards.

either that or extend the levers

[fozuki]

Thanks for the speedy reply.

If the levers need extending is it a simple job ie just welding another length on at a more suitable angle? The levers seem to be part hardened steel and part tube.... Do you have any pictures of any Vits that you have modded in this way?

Do you find that this mod keeps the water out.

I know these are some pretty basic questions, I think I've just been staring at it for too long and hit the wall.

Cheers

James

[fuddy-mukker]

you could always cut back the tin on the floor to the rear of the sticks leaving them totally standard but you will have to do away with the console, youll be left with short sticks but no trouble with gear selection but you will have a gap in the floor where they have in now mooved back, simple tip, pop rivet in some plate to cover the gaps,
thats what i did in mine with no probs at all

[fozuki]

Cheers Mukker

I always get a bit twitchy when it comes to cutting holes in things but it sounds a fairly straight forward mod. Centre console will have to bite the dust but it's not as if I'm running around in my Vit in my Sunday best.

Thanks

[Low Ranger]

Extend your levers by the 3" you are lifting, (diagram below) Its hard to explain but cut the straight bit above the ball then add the 3". Then re weld 12mm bars fine (try to keep it cool, add water after each weld) or the rubber joint will burn. Straighten the lean of the stick out. About half way towards the vertical. Its leaning back at say 30 gerees at the moment off staright (vertical) so re weld with about 15 degrees of lean. A bit of lean is needed to clear the dash.
Than just put your rubbers back on facing downwards. Only one though not both (too much pull from the rubber). To dress the hole i got a vinyl gaitor off a scrap landcruiser and put tha ton. works fine.

Theres some excellent right ups on Shropshire suzuki (sorry if i wasnt supposed to say that).



Heres what i did to get around that brake pipe going through the wing. (Not the best ppic , sorry) Re drill a 16mm hole 65mm below the original and put a 4mm slot between them. Undo the coupling and slide it down, then re fasten. No bleeding of brakes, required.



Richie :D

[fozuki]

Cheers Mate

Thanks for the info and diagrams, that makes it easy to understand. I'm sorry to say that I've actually opened out the gap in the floor so will have to do something a bit Heath Robinson to close the gaps.... any ideas???

I would imagine having to weld a piece of plate in to fill the gap correctly and then re fit the gators over.

Regards

James

[kevj84]

Extend your levers by the 3" you are lifting, (diagram below) Its hard to explain but cut the straight bit above the ball then add the 3". Then re weld 12mm bars fine (try to keep it cool, add water after each weld) or the rubber joint will burn. Straighten the lean of the stick out. About half way towards the vertical. Its leaning back at say 30 gerees at the moment off staright (vertical) so re weld with about 15 degrees of lean. A bit of lean is needed to clear the dash.
Than just put your rubbers back on facing downwards. Only one though not both (too much pull from the rubber). To dress the hole i got a vinyl gaitor off a scrap landcruiser and put tha ton. works fine.

Theres some excellent right ups on Shropshire suzuki (sorry if i wasnt supposed to say that).



Heres what i did to get around that brake pipe going through the wing. (Not the best ppic , sorry) Re drill a 16mm hole 65mm below the original and put a 4mm slot between them. Undo the coupling and slide it down, then re fasten. No bleeding of brakes, required.



Richie :D

Ive just noticed this post. By drilling the arch for the brake pipe, does this mean you can get round buying extended brake lines? :?

[wrecker]

i would say so mate by looking at it ;)

[Low Ranger]

Kev, yes it drops your brake line back down to almost standard, I re drilled mine 65mm below original and have 75mm body lift so my hose is only extended by 10mm.  Most recon you dont need to do anything with a 2" lift but this is that easy i would do it anyway for a 2" lift aswell.

Richie ;)

[dainott]

Sorry if this is common knowledge but if i lifted the body 3 inches will i have to alter anything with the steering as heard that i definately wont have to for a 2 inch lift. If i do then then think it will just stick with a 2 inch lift to save time at the mo.

[mad_one]

there are 2 pinch bolts , one on the steering box and one near the bulk head.
un-do these before you lift the body....  Dont take them out, just slacken them off and you should be ok.
i did a 3" lift on mine and this worked fine for me  ;)