Fitting new pads

[JumboBeef]

I need to fit new pads all round to my Disco (V8 auto, 1996).  My local Halfurds has them in stock at £25 for the front and £20 for the rear.

It's been years since I fitted new pads, so is there anything to be aware of please?  Also, do I need to replace the split pins or any other parts?

Thanks.

[mobi]

have you thought about paddocks they're a lot cheaper even with p&p
http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/abspage/1/category/DISCOVERY_1/searchbox2/1__Front_Axle/subcategory/Brakes.html

[JumboBeef]

Thanks, but:

Brake Pads - axle set - Lockheed   STC9187   Â£12.35   1   Â£12.35   17.50%   Â£2.16
Brake Pads - axle set - Lockheed   STC9189   Â£12.35   1   Â£12.35   17.50%   Â£2.16
Delivery   Â£10.00   17.50%   Â£1.75
Tax   Â£6.07   
Total   Â£40.77

To have them here by tomorrow is going to cost me £40.77, a saving of only a few quid (and I want them this afternoon).

BTW, any idea if my pads will have sensors?

[andrew2986]

Hi Ive got a 97 V8 and it doesn't have pad sensors, if ive bought pads that have them I just cut the wires off. I think it makes the job easier to get a fitting kit with the pads, and I always put copper-slip on the back of the pads and the pins.

Andy

oh and dont forget that when you push the pistons back in the fluid in the reservoir will go up !

[JumboBeef]

OK, thanks.

OK, I'm going to order them from Paddocks, because without sensors it works out about £15 less than Halfuds (and I don't want to give Halfuds any money :lol: ).

Thanks for the help.

[andyb]

oh and dont forget that when you push the pistons back in the fluid in the reservoir will go up !

And if you have ABS you will have (naughty  [-X ) the ABS pump. Much better to open the bleed nipple and let the brake fluid out that way and then top up the reservoir.

[JumboBeef]

Should open the nipple instead of the cap?  The manual says the cap..........?

[andyb]

Open the bleed nipple, much less resistance as well.

[andrew2986]

ha ! never thought of that ! will slacken off the bleed valve next time.  Though haven't done any damage to my ABS valve so far, (been doing it this way for over three years)  but then ive never forced the pistons in just used a slow even pressure and kind of eased them in.

Andy

[JumboBeef]

Where would I find the nipple please?

[Eeyore]

Pushing the pistons in shouldn't harm the ABS pump.  :?

Otherwise, every slack wheelbearing would trash the pump - something the designers caught onto a looong time ago.

If you do open the bleed nipple, be prepared to bleed the brakes fully afterwards. It really is easier to just push the fluid back to the reservoir.  ;)

[andyb]

Pushing the pistons in shouldn't harm the ABS pump.  :?

This practise comes from my car mechanicing back ground. Some ABS systems have to be bleed with the ignition on so that the ABS pump is running (VW Golf being a classic example). On later Disco/RR you have to use diagnostic kit to set the pump into 'bleed mode' where by it opens all the internal valves.

I still think that it's good practise :)

@JumboBeef. The nipples are on the calipers themselves. You will find 2 on the back and 3 on the front. It will be fairly obvious which nipple does what when you get there :)

[Eeyore]

Didn't know that!

However, it's not been a problem on the 'less intelligent' LR systems I've changed pads on.

[Range Rover Blues]

OOOH crikey, then have either of you ever bled the RRC ABS system? it's FAR more comlicated than the Disco and you have to use the ABS pump to bleed half the front end and all the back end.
That's after you've bled the valve block.
It's an afternoon's job :-.

[Eeyore]

Thankfully no, only changed the pads. Bleeding out a Disco ABS system was bad enough!

As a question, Mr Blue, what protocol do you use for getting the pistons back on yours?

........just in case I've been missing something improtant!!  :oops:

[Range Rover Blues]

When I can I'll slacken the bleed nipples, just to try and get rid of some of the "used" fluid.  Obvioulsy you have to be careful not to introduce air into the calliper. 

AFAIK you can push the pistons back in without damage, but IIRC when I did this on my Cavalier it would inevitably need bleeding anyway so I prefer to bleed them as I go.

If you have an Eezy bleed it can prevent you sucking air in through the bleed nipple (use low air pressure) whilst pushing the pistons back in with a wind-in tool, G clamp or water-pump pliers. 

Bleeding the RRC up properly is a 2 man job.

[JumboBeef]

Well, thanks to everyone who helped.

I have replaced the front pads no problem (and used the old fashioned pushing-the-pots-back-in-with-bits-of-wood technique).  Getting the pins out was the hardest part.

I'll do the rear ones another time (my knees are killing me!)

Just been for a short drive and everything seems OK (apart a burning-type smell! Is this normal?)