Wheel bearings gone

[lee celtic]

Hi All

This morning on the way to work I heard a funny noise coming from the front of the car .

tonight I found the front nearside hub has way to much movement so suspect the inner bearing has collapsed .

I do have two bearings and tab washer/seal ,

Question is what tools will I need to do the job and are there any things/tricks I can use to get it apart that might save me time .

the reason I'm asking is I had to leave the car at work and come home in the works pickup and I will have to take everything I need to do the job with me to work tomorrow :x

cheers Lee...

[crazymac]

Hi All

This morning on the way to work I heard a funny noise coming from the front of the car .

tonight I found the front nearside hub has way to much movement so suspect the inner bearing has collapsed .

I do have two bearings and tab washer/seal ,

Question is what tools will I need to do the job and are there any things/tricks I can use to get it apart that might save me time .

the reason I'm asking is I had to leave the car at work and come home in the works pickup and I will have to take everything I need to do the job with me to work tomorrow :x

cheers Lee...

Trying to remember so forgive me if I forget something.

27mm takes the wheel off.

13mm (may be 15mm) takes the shafts out.

17mm? takes off the brake caliper

Hub nut socket takes the nuts off and you need something to knock the tabs back on the washers then you should be able to remove the hub and take it to the bench.

then as the haynes manual says, refitting is the opposite of removal.

[davidlandy]

on my defender i think its a 13mm for the caliper and 17mm for the drive flange bolts, need also some circlip pliers

hub nut spanner is a must - i welded an old socket to mine so that I could torque it up properly.


when doing the drive flange back up leave one bolt out and put that into the end of the CV to help it stay out so that you can get the circlip back on.

when the clip is on put the remaining bolt back in - dont overtighten them either , they snap off

I also use a on old large washer from a radius arm bush to put the new bearing into the hub.

get a new hub oil seal too.

[feenix]

52mm for the hub locknuts I think

[Budgie]

You may also wan to take a flat ended punch with you to knock out the bearing outers as they are a press fit into the hub.
The old bearing outers also make a good tool for putting the new ones back in again, especially if you don't have a press handy.  ;)

[Range Rover Blues]

Ah, the intermttant gravity press :lol:  Hammer and an old screwdriver to drift the bearing races in and out, some grease of course.

Make a flat plate with a 4mm step in it to drift the new oil seal back in, it sits 4mm below the machined face.

I use water pump plyers, you can take the hub nuts off with them, you can also bend the tab washer down.

17mm on newer axles for the driver member, 14mm on older ones IIRC. 13mm rings a bell for the callipers but best to take a range of sockets and a big breaker bar.

The water pump plyers are also handy for pushing the brake pads back in before removing the calliper, take something to support that too ;) and IIRC you need to slacker or remove the top swivel pin to move the rigid brake pipes :-k

Circlip plyers if you have ABS axles

oh and if the bearing has seized at any point in time you with have to mash the old bearings up to get them off the stub axle, so a grinder if they were Timken bearings or a cold chisel if they were hong kong fuey ones, plus goggles.

Jack and axle stands

When you retighten the hub nuts, nip the inner one up hand tight whilst spinning the hub, then slacken off 90 degrees.  fit the lock washer and nip the second nut up to the first, check that you can fell a tiny amount of play then bend the washer.

If you have ABS axles you should also check that when fully assembled you can still get at least a pice of paper under the circlip on the driveshgaft witht he hub pulled out as far as possible, this tells you that the wheel bearings are controlling endfloat in the hub and not the CV joint.  If the later were the case the CV bearing would expire quite quickly.  CHeck also that there is not excessive float in the CV shaft.  If you have non ABS axles the drive member and driveshaft are one part, ignore all the stuff about circlips and endfloat ;)

[mobi]

just a tip if you havn't got a press, when you punch out the bearing outer put a cut in it then you can use it to tap/hammer the new bearing in.

drive flange bolts are 17mm on a 300 and 9/16 (14mm) on a 200.
calliper bolts are 13mm 12 pointed on a 300 don't know for a 200.

[clover]

Hi

Right seeing as my problem is roughly related to this thread I'll just on to this one rather than starting a new one.

First I'll explain what I've done... then I'll explain why its right royally rogered!

I rebuild the whole of my front axle more or less. I fitted a replacement diff, on both sides I replaced the swivels, seals, swivel bearings, I fitted new swivel pins on one side, I fitted 2 replacement hubs and one replacement stub axle, a complete set of 4 wheel bearings, new seals, new disks and pads. I did the hub nut up as tight as I could get it using a large screwdriver through the two holes in the hub spanner.

When I put the calipers back on and the pads in the wheels would not turn. It seems that the disks are fouling the calipers (both wheels). The disks are too far out so the side of the disk that faces outwards is fouling the caliper.

Secondly despite doing the hub nut up as tight as I could I still have loads of play in the wheel.

The wheel bearings were timken ones and as far as I can tell the disks are the right ones. I double checked the seals were on the right way round. The hubs and stub axle came from the same vehicle and looked identical to the ones I took off.

I dunno what the hell I've done wrong...

[crazymac]

The 1st thing I'd do is take the calipers back off, to see if that really is why your hub is not turning? It strikes me that the bearings aren't seated properly so you're not getting the hub on fully? So I'd look there 1st.

There is two hub nuts, one of them only needs to be done hand tight ish, not as tight as you can get it!

[clover]

Been told that there are at least 3 different size hubs and stub axles and that I probably have been supplied with the wrong hubs. I'm  assuming the distance between the two bearings is shorter than my stubs so the bearings are not pinching up and the hub nut is just running out of thread...

It may be that the replacement stub axle I bought may not match either of the hubs I have.

Rapidly loosing the will to live...

[Range Rover Blues]

Yes I've found that there are different hubs/stub axle combinations, plus the RRC rear disks don't fit on the front though I was once told they were the same disk :-k

It's possible the hub is hitting the end of the stub axle before the bearinsg come up tight.  The again you should slacken them off 90 degrees.  If you try that and the hub turns but you hear a grating noise, look for a whitmess mark to show where it catches, that might give you a clue.

[mobi]

i think you have put rear disks on the front, front disks are deeper.

[lee celtic]

Hi Guys

Well all done :dance: :dance:

Took 1 1/2 hours to do (would have been less if I didn't have to hunt around for a socket to take the wheel off  :oops: nuts on too tight for the standard landy wheel wrench now in the bin :roll:)

All went well , pretty straight forward , getting it apart was easy :shock: as soon as I took the outer spacer off the rollers fell out all over the floor :lol: :lol:

I used the old race to knock in the new ones (Timken) whole job went perfect :D

as usual thanks for all the replies  :clap: :clap:

[muddyjames]

Hi Guys

Well all done :dance: :dance:

Took 1 1/2 hours to do (would have been less if I didn't have to hunt around for a socket to take the wheel off  :oops: nuts on too tight for the standard landy wheel wrench now in the bin :roll:)

I am so jealous. My first time was last year in August for the MOT under a tarp in the rain and calling about 5 different people. I am still very grateful to RRB. It took me 3hours. I can tighten up a bearing in 30mins now. Still not 100% sure how tight the nuts are supposed to go but hey, it hasnt fallen off yet :lol:

[lee celtic]

Torque to 61 nm then undo 90 degrees..

apparently  :-.

However I didn't have an adaptor to fit the big socket 3/4 drive to my big torque wrench 1/2 drive  :roll:

so I did it up tight with the wrench then backed it off 90 degrees :lol:

Two days of welly and it's not fell off so it must be ok :twisted:

[muddyjames]

is 61nm tight? I have no idea how strong a nm is. I tend to give the inside nut a lot of beans with a hammer and a screw driver (must buy the big sockety thing) to the point it stops the first time so I dont really ram it home. the outer nut I tend to do the same as I have had that start to undo before even with the tab washer in place.

I find a crow bar is great to bend the tab washers back over.

[Range Rover Blues]

They only need to be tight enough to ensure the nut has fully pushed the bearinsg up, then  you slacken off to allow the bearings to move around slightly.  If you can just detect the tinyest bit of free play int he bearinsg then perfect.  Some manufacturers state that the thick keep washer should only just be able to move with the tip of a screwdriver once assembled.  That is the tightest they should ever be, otherwise they will last about 2 weeks if over-tightened.  Go on, ask me how I know that

[lee celtic]

Go on, ask me how I know that

 :clap: :clap: :lol: :lol:

61nm is quite tight but yes I think it is just to get the bearings where they are supposed to be then release them so they can move...

when it was up thigh the wheel would'nt move at all :lol: