help lifting my truck

[muddymud]

ok im thinking about putting a lift on my 1990 disco.

step 1
my plan is to get a 2" lift (springs, shocks, dislo cones F+R, spring retainers F+R anything elts i need?

step 2
cranked radios arms, brake hoses, poly bush kit, four poly bush bump stops, tubular shock turrets.

step 3
when i have all of that im thinking 1" spring spacers.

anything i have missed?

what weight spring should i use as im looking for an all round offroad spring?
also when i was looking on paddock im abit confused with the number like this- 

Front Coil Spring - RHD to HA475972 - DISCOVERY 1

what do they mean?

Cheers
Nick

[Budgie]

HA475972 is the chassis number. So if you chassis number is lower than this then that's the springs you need.  ;)

I would put the lengthened brake hoses in step 1 as they are a safety feature.
If you're thinking about adding spring spacers then why not just get a +3" spring kit? You will need the cranked radius arms and probably a TD5 front propshaft with is option though.

The main thing to think about is "what will I be using it for?"
Will you need tubular shock turrets?
What size tyres are you going to fit?
Will you also need to cut the body or fit extended wheelarch flares?

[Skibum346]

Defintely put the brake hoses in step one!   :shock: :shock: :shock:

If you are at extreme aarticulation you could snap a brake hose... not fun if you need to rely on them suddenly!

If you need to save money, lose the dislocation cones to step 2.

[Range Rover Blues]

Agreed with all the above.

Step 1 is deciding what you intend to do with it, and where you want to end up.  That way you don't make costly mistakes/have to bin parts you've not had the use of and you avoid any unsafe situations.

I'd advise 3" springs because they will likely be designed for that lift and the truck will handle appropriately.  I'm not a fan of spacers though they have their place.

Another route for you might be cones and longer dampers with standard springs for now, more articluation, for heaven's sake do the brake lines at the same time, then later you can go for a TD5 prop, castor arms and 3" springs, at 3" I'd put money on you needing castor arms ;)

You also need to space the ARBs, but that's a cheap job, longer bolts and towball spacers do the trick :), yo need to do this at both end because the front prop will get very close to the ARB even though it isn't at risk of inverting like the back one.
I'd also suggest you end up with H/D rear trailing links, cranked preferably.

Extra long bump stops are a good idea if you fit oversized tyres or go more than plus2" on the rear shocks as you don't want the shock becoming the bump stop.

Polybush the panhard rod, it works very hard on a lifted truck.

You don't need to change the shock towers but tubular ones allow more air cooling if you do comnp safari!  you will want H/D retaining rings though, the original ones are made of cheese but this is a cheap part.

Springs will typically be around plus25% for a lift unless you specify winch, extra guard etc and it's worth thinking ahead, if you plan a permenant winch and some heavy tank/sill/steering guards ten your springs need to be stiffer.  This will ocst more than an off-the-shelf lift kit from say Britpart.

At the end of the day do you need a lift? are you fitting big tyres?

[boss]

if your lifting it 2" you wont need cranked arms. if you put cranked arms on you will need new propshafts. if you go over 2" you will pop UJs more often with standard shafts, not to mention binding.
not to mention i am yet to see a cranked arm that is as strong as a RL one.

[Banjo]

Hope to give mine a 2 inch lift soon, looking at it i can correct the castor by machineing the swivel flange holes.

[Budgie]

That's IF you need too.
Some are fine on a +2" lift without a need to correct the caster angle, others find the steering too light & twitchy.
Machining the swivel is the better option as it doesn't effect the front propshaft angle but any more than +2" and you really need the radius arms because angle of the front axle starts to tilt forwards. Unless you cut the radius arm and panhard rod brackets off the axle and weld them back on to bring the axle to the correct angle again, then you can use standard swivel housings as well.  ;)

[stuntman]

Yup add the brake hoses and the bump stops to step one. Forget the arms, but I would definitly put new uj's in the props, they are really cheap and don't take long to do.

[muddymud]

The main thing to think about is "what will I be using it for? green lanes, racing around my mates farm and some playdays
Will you need tubular shock turrets? yes as i put my truck through some abuse racing around rutted farm tracks.
What size tyres are you going to fit? about 265/75/16
Will you also need to cut the body or fit extended wheel arch flares? don't no yet probably not as i like the wheels sticking out a bit and im not going to be driving it on the road. (much)

so.......
1) brake hoses
2) four poly bush bump stops - http://www.mm-4x4.com/polyurethane-extended-bump-stop-1354-p.asp
3) tubular shock turrets - http://www.mm-4x4.com/tubular-turrets-pair-galvanised-2727-p.asp
4) 2" lift springs and shocks - http://www.mm-4x4.com/spring-lift-kit---2-inch-lift---includes-free-delivery-within-mainland-uk-868-p.asp
5) dislo cones front - http://www.mm-4x4.com/high-quality-dislocation-cones-pair-front-1357-p.asp
6) dislo cones rear - http://www.mm-4x4.com/high-quality-dislocation-cones-pair-rear-1358-p.asp
7) spring retainers front - http://www.mm-4x4.com/front-retainer-plate-spring-1364-p.asp (<< is this one or two?)
8) spring retainers rear - http://www.mm-4x4.com/rear-heavy-duty-nickel-plated-spring-retainer---pair-1366-p.asp

Sub Total:   Â£321.31
   
Delivery:   Â£0.00
   
Vat @ 17.5%:   Â£56.23
   
Total:   Â£377.54


and i will get it all at the same time and fit it in one go! how does it sound now? i will also be putting a winch and steering guard on but will not use the winch a lot its more for looks and stoping me worrying about getting stuck and wondering how im going to get out!

what is?.........
"You also need to space the ARBs, but that's a cheap job"
"Polybush the panhard rod, it works very hard on a lifted truck."
"H/D retaining rings "

Cheers for the help relay appreciate it!! :D

[bullfrog]

The prop angle will be altered at the box end !
The steering will MOSt likeley go vague so cranked arms are advised .
I would suggest a +3 as already said the springs will be better than spacers.
Unless you are fitting decent bushes all round the front cones wont do anything on a +2"
On a +3" from MM they send you +2" shocks so again dont waste you monsy on them.
I would go for rough country shocks as they offer the same warranty and better damping.

[Budgie]

what is?.........
"You also need to space the ARBs, but that's a cheap job"
"Polybush the panhard rod, it works very hard on a lifted truck."
"H/D retaining rings "

ARB's (Anti Roll Bars) may not be a problem on your Disco as it probably hasn't got them fitted. They were standard fit on the 300 series.

Panhard rod is on the front axle and goes from the drivers side chassis rail to the passenger side of the axle and stops the axle moving sideways. Polybushes are harder waring than the standard Land Rover ones and easier to fit.

Heavy duty retaining rings for the front shocker turrets.

To save a little money you can do without the front spring retainers and front cones, unless you're going to fit the -2" turrets, as the spring won't dislocate with the setup you're planning.

Fitting 265/75/16 tyres will reduce your turning circle, unless you fit wheel spacers or different offset wheels, so look to alter the steering stops on the front axle when you fit them.
Any tyre extending beyond the bodywork must be covered, normally using extended wheel arch flares, otherwise you stand a chance of being pulled by the Police and it's an MOT failure. You will also need to check what the tyres do on full articulation as they may well catch the bodywork when they are up in the wheelarch, but you'll only know this once they're fitted.  ;)

[karlo]

+2" Springs front and rear
+2 Shock Absorbers front and rear
1 pair HD spring retainers Front
1 pair of rear dislocation cones
1 pair HD rear spring retainers
4x extended polyurethane bump stops
1 set of extended brake hoses
1 pair HD front retaining rings

I wouldn't bother with front cones again (got em on mine) or -2" front turrets (had em on mine and the front shocks bottomed out)
you could fit tubular front turrets but not an essential.
my front hoses are long enough, but rears are tight will be fitting +4" hoses and lowered shock mounts on the rear (hoses come as a set unless you buy individual ones, Llama4x4.)

[Chris Putt]

If you can afford it Id probably slap on a set of -2 rear shock mounts and -2 turrets, and dislocation cones all round, and as stated above get some decent bushes on there as well...... More droop and you get to make full use of the + 2 shocks if your fitting bigger tyres- rather than loosing the inch of upward travel you gain!

 as regards the dislocation cones, can you weld? in which case fab up some yourself- or find a friendly local fabricator- they really arent very difficult to make, a friend made some up for his bob with no hassles!


Just my threepennies worth....

[topless matt]

I would definatley recomend the extended brake lines.
Dont get a td5 cardan (or however you spell it) propshaft as when they wear out the ujs cant be changed easily, not to mention that they are sealed for life and cant be greased :doh:

[Steve ray]

Due to Land Rover , errm.... "tolerances" you can lift two Discos and they will behave differently. e.g. you might get away with castor corrected arms on the front on one, but find it's essential on the other!

As with a lot of things, there's a budget to consider. One of the best compromises I've found is to fit:

SPRINGS
+2" HD Bearmach blue springs (MM-4x4 seem to be good value on these)

SHOCKS
You can either go for the +2" Pro Comp (9000) shocks (I started with these, then fitted Rough Country ones +5" instead)
The Rough County need the Glyn Lewis-type shocks mounts though, as they are "nut & pin" top and bottom on either the front or the rear. Whereas ProComp rears are "nut & pin" at the bottom and "ring" at the top. (Speak to Dave at Llama4x4 for these) You might want to also fit raised turrets on the front too with +5" shocks -iproved upward travel of the axle.

EXTENDED HOSES
Please fit these as Step1 mate. Most 4x4 shops will sell 'em, Llama4x4 will make them to any length you require in my experience.

FRONT ARMS - castor corrected preferred, but you may get away with it. Qt3's are good

REAR ARMS - take the strain out of the bushes somewhat - particularly at the 'axle end' (but at £3.50+VAT per side the std bushes aren't too expensive) but you will replace them more often than with cranked arms.

ARB - want really good articulation? Ditch the anti-roll bars

SPRING RETAINERS - use the Heavy Duty type, rather than the std LR ones

BUSHES - blue polybushes all round if you're considering changing them

TYRES - could start a whole new 'arguement' about these, but 265/75x16 works really well on a Disco with +2" lift (imho)
[run this size BFG MTs on black modulars on my Disco for the last 2+ years - no issues - love em]


This set up allows the fitting of bigger tyres (more clearance), gives loads of articulation off-road and the BFGs are still reasonable on-road.


Hope this helps

[Steve ray]

PS - forgot to add .............. make sure you 'copper grease' everything

[clbarclay]

4) 2" lift springs and shocks - http://www.mm-4x4.com/spring-lift-kit---2-inch-lift---includes-free-delivery-within-mainland-uk-868-p.asp

Reard the description carefully on that kit. Note that it actually makes no referance to the length of the dampers. Experiance says that they will most likely be only standard length. Also while at it note that it doesn't specify a make of spring, despite the picture showing yellow (Britpart) springs.

[andyb]

Forget castor corrected arms. You'll end up with both front prop UJs running at steep angles.

Personally, I'd advise doing all the other work and see how it drives. Then either get redrilled swivels or have the axle casing modified.