New Bulkhead tdi-td5

[Ridgeback]

Hello again,

I have been out looking at my 90 and think its about time I stop putting off the Bulkhead rust and put a new one on.
I was thinking of getting a TD5 one with all the bits still on, heater,dash,loom etc (i have a 200tdi LT77). Other then the mods to change the gearbox tunnel, does anyone know of any problems I might have making the electrics work.
I have been told I need the sender unit from a TD5 gearbox for the speedo to work but will the rest of the loom plug in ok and work.

How long do you think a bulkhead swap should take, could I get this done over 2-3 days.

[crazymac]

its a lot of work, to do in a few days will take commitment.

Roof, front wings, doors off.

Disconnection of all electrics, steering column, brake servo, clutch etc etc etc etc

have fun

[Ridgeback]

I have not found a job on the dam thing thats not a lot of work!
I have spent many 14hr days working on it.

The thing is, all the job's i have done before are fitting new parts that are designed to fit or I know will fit.  I have never done the TD5 bulkhead and dont know what problems I might have.
The problem with most jobs like this is the time spend getting round problems or finding the extra parts needed to make things work.
I would like to get all the parts I will need before I start the job if possible

[dj_rob12]

hi, im in the same situation with the 200tdi bulkhead!!!

mine is now stripped off the landy, it looks a worse task than it is really, i had the wings, doors and roof off in about 5 hours ( i also had to take the full external cage off.... that was the biggest pain in the arse of all) which for a landy i didnt think was too bad!! then disconnecting the pipes from the engine didnt take that long either........ just make sure every wire and pipe is labeled and draw diagrams is nessessary, it makes the job so much easier

 i have done some research and found that the TD5 bulkhead i think is too much hassel to chop the gearbox tunnel and fill in holes in the bulkhead and drill new ones.

 i am going to find a 200 or 300 complete bulkhead with all steering, dash etc as im told the gearbox tunnels are the same, also there are several places stripping them from crashed vehciles that are not so expensive but i think the crutial point is that there is no rust on them because im NOT doing another!!!

hope this helps

[Ridgeback]

I have decided to just go for it and get a TD5 one. I will work out the electrics as I go !
I don't mind a bit of welding work but don't want to go for a 200 or 300 bulkhead because most of them are now starting to rust.

[zulublue]

Why dint you find a good 200/300 bulkhead, OK it may take a bit of time, then have it shot blast and galvanized?

[L90OOK]

Why dint you find a good 200/300 bulkhead, OK it may take a bit of time, then have it shot blast and galvanized?

I did exactly that 

[crazymac]

I've got a brand new TD5 Bulkhead in my garage that I could be persuaded to sell!!

[Ridgeback]

I've got a brand new TD5 Bulkhead in my garage that I could be persuaded to sell!!

Thanks for the offer but I'm looking for one with all the dash and heater parts still on

[Nobber]

its [throw it] easy to fit a new one , there are one or two differences.
the td5 bulkhead (dash panel assembly , the bulkhead is actually the bit behind the seats) will need the gear box tunnel cut a bit (i have been told there is a wide tunnel version?) by placing the diaphragm against it and marking it all out then grinding it and drilling the new holes for the diaphragm to bolt to.
at this point it would be wise to tack weld some captive nuts for the diaphragm bolts to fix to , its fiddly otherwise.

the td5 wiper mechanism is different , i had to drill out holes to bolt the motor in then drill out holes in the top to fit the wiper rod thingy , its very self explanitary when you have both bulkheads side by side.

the steering is different so the hold where the steering rod goes through needs widened , only by very little.

the fuse box is situated in a different place so you will need to drill a hole for the main harness to go through into the engine bay.

the td5 heater , i think was a different size? cant remember now.

you will need to dress the new bulkhead with bits , plastic passive nut thingys to screw the dash to and riv nuts to bolt the steering and heater to.
you will need captive nuts for the wings and the door hinges to screw to.

get a parts diagram with the bulkhead fittings and part numbers , the bits cost pennys but will make life so much easier , also you dont want to be held back for a week due to not having a riv nut worth 5 pence that holds your steering together.

a good idea would be to get some tiger seal to seal it all up before painting and then wax oil it before installing it.
get new heater seals , you will regret it if you dont come next winter.

i cant think of anything else off hand except you wont be able to do it properly without the parts book diagram and part numbers and if you dont do it properly you mighty regret it.

all in all though its a very easy , cheap alternative to having a crumbling bulkhead.
buy genuine though , dont go to crappocks or the like for a brickpart part , genuine from a main dealer usually works out cheaper then a sh!tpart one and unlike a sh!tpart one it will actually fit.


if you plan to do it and need help just ask , ive got loads of pics of the mods as well if you need to see anything.

[Nobber]

just to add , buying one already made up will be/could be a right ache , there are way to many things to have to consider , the harness and fuse box's are different , td5 fuse box is under the seat isnt it? you could be opening up a big can of worms there , a new one would probably work out cheaper.
they are around 200 - 250 from a main dealer. ;)