adjustable front panhard set up problem

[jamesey]

hi ive finally lifted the jimny but i have a couple of issues ive noticed now my steering wheel is a quarter of a turn from straght when the wheels are straight , how can i measure to adjust the panhard and once done will it return the steering wheel back to central.
also the front shockers i got from kap didnt have the metal insert for the  bush is this ok just to bolt through  without??

[glaggs]

You an adjust the steering wheel by adjusting the front steering arw length, You need the metal bush in the shocks, use the ones outta your old shocks.

[jamesey]

do you mean the steering arm or the adjusable panhard   , why fitting a panhard has it thrown the steering out
and cheers ill do that with the shocks

[auf_wiedersehen_pet]

If your Suzuki is anything like my Disco, (Don't worry - I'm ignoring the anti LR comments in your avatar :lol:) the panhard rod links the chassis to the axle to prevent lateral movement of the axle.  As the car is lifted, the PHR swings to a steeper angle, moving the axle to the side slightly. In turn, the offset axle puts the steering wheel out of line.

Don't adjust your steering arm as this will only mask the problem.

I have a APHR and I will fit it as follows. Remove the old PHR. Adjust the new one so that new one has the same distance as the old one and then lengthen it by one rotation of the adjuster (rose joint?). Refit and test. A gradual process of adjustments will bring the axle to the same position laterally. Only then will the steering wheel sit centrally again.

Alternatively, book it in for a wheel alignment/steering setup.

[minimog]

if you have lifted the jimny both the panhrd rod and the steering arm will need lenthening not by a lot (prob only need 10mm for a 2" lift)

[glaggs]

if you have lifted the jimny both the panhrd rod and the steering arm will need lenthening not by a lot (prob only need 10mm for a 2" lift)

I agree with minimog, but you should have enough adjustment in the steering link ti give the 10 mm needed.

[jamesey]

ok ill book it in for one , it looks like the links havent moved for 10 years 

[robert francis]

i got some of those metal sleve things your on about from procomp es9000 if there the same you can have them, ta let me no

[jamesey]

thanks robert but ive got the sleves out of my rears :shock: that didnt sound good did it , anyway ive booked the jim in for a wheel alignment .ive also got a private plate to go on it thats been on retention a year now. :dance:

[glaggs]

Having your wheel alignment checked is a good idea - but it won't re-centre your steering. This is done by adjusting the front steering arm. Wheel alignment is taken care of by adjustment of the rear steering arm.

[jamesey]

got a right problem with it now , the nut that fastens to the axel (n/s) has rounded in the hole and comes loose on its own , ive been off roading today and nearly has a right accident , what can i do without changing the front axel??? :shock:

[glaggs]

Drill the bolt out - or pesuade it out some other way and then get the thread repaired.

[jamesey]

i drilled it out last time and retapped it to a bsp thread but its worked looseagain and stripped it , the only thing i can have done noe is take out the bolt put the panhard back in the slot put some thresded bar in and weld it in fron the back then just put a nut and washer on it , if i need another panhard bush ill just have to chop it off , the bushes are proper poly ones so they should be ok :?

[glaggs]

The only danger is that there might be too much clearance between the threaded bar and the centre of the bush.

[jamesey]

i cant think of anything else to do besides got another front axel

[glaggs]

Two options:-

1/ get a proper thread insert repair - most proper motor engineers will do it fo not a lot.
2/ If possible? drillthrough and put a nut on one end with a slightly longer bolt. Would need to look at mine to see if there is clearance to drill through and get a nut in.

[jamesey]

option 1 sounds better , option 2 is a no go as the round of the axel only leves abot 10mm or so to play with, if i could get the captive nut off the back it might do it with a nut on the back but its just getting to it , for a temp measure the bolt that spins ive welded the nut head to the bracket so it doesnt move about or come out , the only thing is now the panhard isnt tight enough
i thought it might be better putting some threeaded bar though the mount hole with the panhard in place then welding the back of the bar up then just put a nut on the front , i know ill not be able to get the panhard off without cutting but thats life , i can live with it just welded as it is but it will eat the poly bush up i think what do you think , ill try to get a pic of what i have had done

[glaggs]

The polybush should have a metal sleve through it, which the bolt in turn passes through. This should be a snug fit and will stop the bolt eating the polybush!

[jamesey]

so really now ive got the front welded up where the bolt head is , and if i get the back weled up where i can see the thread poking though under the spring mount i should be ok??

[glaggs]

The bolt should be tightened up against the spacer so that the only movement is in the flex of the bush.

[jamesey]

that is my problem it wont be tight unless i can get it squeezed up somehow then welded up , the metal sleve is in ok and theres minimum movement at the mo , id rather get away with replacing the front axel if i can , but if needs be they cant be that hard to do , thornton brakers want £150 for one , ive seen them on ebay for £70 , so im going to wait awhile till a cheapy comes along

[glaggs]

I've got a bare casing that you can have for £50 if you want.

[jamesey]

it might be worth me getting a whole one to save me swapping all the bitz ove that would take me ages , ill keep you in mind though , ill see how it goes welding the front and rear up thanks glaggs