vibrations and shudders

[digger]

recently put a 4inch lift on my disco 2inch on the springs and 2inch on the packers 6 degree radius arms 4 degree trailing arms wide angle props has anyone got any suggestions what is wrong only vibrating and shuddering when slowing down

[meader]

wot tyres you running ? and is this the first lift on your truck

[digger]

no had a 2ing lift on it for 2 years and running kl71 33

[Budgie]

Front propshaft.
Unless you've got a cardon/cardan/cardin (whatever they're called) type then you'll get vibration from it because of the angles that the prop is trying to work at.
Normally the front prop will have the two UJs working at about the same angle so they balance each other out. With a lift then the transfer box UJ is working at a greater angle than the Diff end so, even with a wide angle prop, you'll still get the vibration.

[auf_wiedersehen_pet]

Front propshaft.
Unless you've got a cardon/cardan/cardin (whatever they're called) type then you'll get vibration from it because of the angles that the prop is trying to work at.
Normally the front prop will have the two UJs working at about the same angle so they balance each other out. With a lift then the transfer box UJ is working at a greater angle than the Diff end so, even with a wide angle prop, you'll still get the vibration.

+1 front prop.

[clbarclay]

Another for front prop.

Lifting messes up the angles of the UJs on the front prop, the more you lift the worse it gets and then castor correction radius arms or bushes rotate the front axle making it even worse.

As standard the UJs weren't exactly balanced, but they were close enough for vibrations not to be noticed. The more you lift and/or castor correct, the more noticeable the vibrations become.

[digger]

now gone down to a 2inch lift and still shudder when slowing down at normal speed fine

[Budgie]

Remove the front propshaft, engauge difflock in High range and then take it for a spin and see what it's like.
If the shudder has gone then you know what's causing it, if it's still there then you can start looking at other things like swivel bearings, CV bearings in the back of the swivel housing etc.  ;)

[Jake]

Remove the front propshaft, engauge difflock in High range and then take it for a spin and see what it's like.
If the shudder has gone then you know what's causing it, if it's still there then you can start looking at other things like swivel bearings, CV bearings in the back of the swivel housing etc.  ;)

Spot on
 :D

[Range Rover Blues]

Front prop.  It's worse when you slow down because the transmision is coasting so all the backlash allows the rattling/droning.  Under load the backlash closes up.

[jorkila]

It still doe's it with the front prop removed!!

[Range Rover Blues]

Crikey.  Have you got the rubber doughnut on the back prop by any chance? it's possible the same problem there.  Also could be that the rear prop UJs have "worn in" to the old springs and now you are asking them to work at a bigger angle they aren't happy.

You could try running with just the front prop on now.

[mattyme]

all this takin the props on and of is all very well as long as youve got a 9/16 spanner (i think it is) the 14mm spanner just doesnt really cut the mustard!! lol  :-k :-k :-k

[Budgie]

That's why I use one of these from Difflock  ;)

[mattyme]

£20 form difflock and £15 from paddocks..... paddocks is closer!!

 :-k :-kmethinks im gonna have a ride to matlock tgomorrow for a propshaft removal tool!!