AuthorTopic: Devilbiss finishline pressure question  (Read 2194 times)

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Offline Mutz

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Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« on: May 03, 2010, 10:12:23 »
Hi, ive never sprayed before; but decided to give it a go.

Problem i have is i have a devilbiss finish line gravity spray gun Think it is the first one. only has 2 adjusters at rear and 1 under air input. top adjuster is fluid, 1 under that is trigger/needle and the one at the bottom appears to be air in.

Now i was told it should give a nice finish with cellulose, but i find it pulsates and leaves a uneven surface.

It has a 1.6 needle setup which im told is correct for celly, im running it at between 45-50 psi, is this the problem, what pressure should it be?

Must be some sprayers on here some where.
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

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Offline Mutz

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2010, 11:51:00 »
Right ive found a manual and pressure is right!!

Hmmm, just found a thread on another site says should thin 30/70 on last coat, is that correct? (Paint/Thinners) not 50/50 as the other coats ive done? as this will give it a good gloss finish!
« Last Edit: May 03, 2010, 12:17:36 by Mutz »
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

"I Havn't got a Bad Attitude; you just can't handle my personality"

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2010, 13:19:38 »
Yes. My mate taught me to put a mist coat on first, so that the thinners of the second coat has somewhere to go, then finish with a thinner last coat for a better shine.  I've read that some restorers put 7 or 8 coats on, but that's too much paint or too thin to run out properly.
The bottom adjuster, leave it fully open for now.  Trying to remember what the other 2 do, one is the paint flow IIRC and the other is the nedle stop, that control how far you can retract the needle which in turn controls how much pain t comes out of the gun.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Mutz

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2010, 20:17:33 »
Think i need a service kit as im getting air blowing back into paint canister!!!

Might give up on DeVilbiss, and buy another gun.

Thanks for info RRB.

All these hints help
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

"I Havn't got a Bad Attitude; you just can't handle my personality"

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2010, 21:14:34 »
Is it an old gun then?  obviously a gravity feed doens't have a pressurised can, have you stripped and cleaend it? they need thorough cleaning but IIRC the gland which seals the needle is adjustable :-k

I'd be able to tell better is I could see it.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Mutz

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2010, 22:18:24 »
It is quite old, it has been completley stripped and cleaned, i have adjusted the nut for the rear needle seal just off the point of needle not returning.

But on looking at parts diagram i might be a fluid tip seal missing, as i cant locate it on the gun at all!!!


Its the FLG-611.

Am thinking about getting a Sealey gravity gun, as reasonable price, under £23 on the bay; any thoughts RRB?

The Sealey would be cheaper than getting the parts for the DeVilbiss!!

I will try and email you the PDF manual of the gun.
« Last Edit: May 07, 2010, 22:26:29 by Mutz »
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

"I Havn't got a Bad Attitude; you just can't handle my personality"

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2010, 12:29:12 »
Devilbiss are not cheap to fix, the fact that you can buy a new gun for less than the spares should tell you something about the quality though.

The Sealey one is ok, it won't last as long, it probably won't give you as good a spray pattern as a Devillbiss in good nick, but for what you want to do and for a gun to learn with I think it might be ok.

For £23 you might as well give it a try.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Mutz

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2010, 15:03:51 »
well its only got to do one 90, so think i will get it anyway.

I will get the repair kit for the Devilbiss, but just want to get on with spraying the bits ive got ready.

Good thing is im spraying the panels before putting them back on, so only small sections at a time.
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

"I Havn't got a Bad Attitude; you just can't handle my personality"

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2010, 21:08:20 »
If you spray metallic paint then there's a good chance the differnet panels won't match, all you can do is try.  The metallic flakes lie differnelty andthis effects the way they reflect light.

Try to adopt a consistant technique, like always spray left/right not up/down.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Mutz

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2010, 00:40:22 »
Not metalic, just plain colour; realised metalic wouldnt be an easy option for a first time spray.

Also plain colour easier to repair when off road damaged.
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

"I Havn't got a Bad Attitude; you just can't handle my personality"

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2010, 00:14:31 »
Very true!

Top tip, with a gravity feed gun, empty the bwol after every coat, remix/stir it and add back to the gun just before spraying the next coat.  I clean my gun between coats now too.

If you don't you might get a splodgy/thick bit of piant for the fist second.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Mutz

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2010, 18:26:44 »
Taken on board, thanks.
1995 300tdi 90 rebuilt and on the road (but still a project)
1992 Pajero SWB 2.5 Auto (failed its MOT and for sale if you want it)

"I Havn't got a Bad Attitude; you just can't handle my personality"

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Devilbiss finishline pressure question
« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2010, 22:08:03 »
Got your email BTW, when I've time I'll have a look and maybe ask my mate for advice ;)
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

 






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