discovery 200tdi into 88"series,shopping list of parts i need.?advice please.

[DAVE V8]

hi ,got a rusty 200tdi discovery to use engine and maybe box into series 2a,dont want to start half arsed so was looking for helpfull advice .....will put new clutch on engine...at moment got an ancient 2.5 gutless non turbo daihatsu,fitted to 4 speed series box,rangy diffs 3.5s,265/70/16s............is it better to fit disco 5 speed box or just run series box?if i try to fit 5 speed what grief ,i.e props ,gear levers etc.whats pros and cons of either box,just wanting to get a shopping list together of parts i will need. so once i start i can really crack on.....................any useful  advice,personal experiences  that may help out really appreciated... cheers dave

[NiteMare]

don't even bother trying to fit the disco box unless you want a passenger in the rear tub to change gear for you, the disco box/bellhousing is way too long...

my 200tdi is mated straight to the series 3 4 speed box, all i needed to do was use the 9.5 inch series friction plate, i mounted the alternator in the usual Series position using a series mount and spaced it all forwards approximately 30mm and put a double pulley on the alt'...

you have to remove one stud from the 200 flywheel housing along with a couple of locating pegs, there will be 4 bolts that you can't fit across the bottom of the bellhousing unless you drill and tap the flywheel housing to suit (i didn't and have been using it for nearly 2 years like this as a daily driver)....

use the series mounts on the 200 block but put 3.5-4mm spacers above and below the engine rubbers to lift the engine to help prevent the crank pulley hitting the front axle (i turned my pulley on my lathe) i used petrol rubbers on the engine...

you can "clock" the turbo to save you cutting the inner wing for your turbo piping (i didn't clock it), i trimmed my rad' panel to fit my i/cooler, i also turned the i/cooler upside down and trimmed 1-1.5 inch off the new top stub to allow the pipe to clear the radiator ...

i used a volvo 740 expansion tank as it's nice and small, a 90 airbox and cut the legs off and mounted that on the timing case (connector off the disco airbox with reducer) i cut and shut rad' hoses to suit, built my own exhaust  ...

a link to all the pictures i took as i built my 88"
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh311/NiteMare_08/Zebedee/

fit 7.50 tyres, 3.54 diffs, an overdrive and you're geared for 90mph on the road if you're brave enough (i'm still on 10" single leading shoe brakes no servo single line system, will be upgrading that soon to dual line (servo) and 11inch SLS brakes on the front

[DAVE V8]

thanks this is very useful,some really great tips,only thing ,i have a 3 piece new clutch kit will the 200tdi pressure plate not fit?,i will go down the standard series gearbox route and just sell the disco box..cheers

[NiteMare]

series3, defender and 200tdi disco all use the same pressure plate and clutch release bearing ...

you just need to use the series3 9.5 inch friction plate as the splines are different

[DAVE V8]

top man ,better get me shopping list sorted out and get cracking,lol....thanks for the help,really appreciated.

[Amma]

When I changed the engine in mine it took me three days to do the full job and that was by myself. The main difference is that I was fittingmine to an ex-six-cylinder (as it already had an engine change to a 2.5 petrol) 109" which meant that the turbo misses the chassis rail (just!) but tries to put the exhaust through the nearside footwell.

 :roll:

The trick with this was to cut a corner out of the footwell and weld a 'box' out of suitable thickness metal and then weld that in place from the inside. It also means that my wife has somewhere to rest her foot on.

Since I had a bit more room behind the radiator panel I decided to fit the whole of the radiator assembly from the Disco still in the frame which I have welded brackets onto the chassis which lifts it just clear of the steering components and means that when it comes to changing the timing belt I can unbolt the top and then lift out the rad and intercooler to be able to get to the front of the engine. The downside to this was not being able to fit the viscous fan back onto the engine which was not a huge concern as I already had a Kenlowe fan which is now mounted directly to the radiator panel to blow cool air through.

Hoses were made by utilising the old hoses from the Discovery and then extending them with sections of the old exhaust pipe (cleaned first though!) as I had already decided it was too small in diameter for the Tdi engine to perform properly. The only hose I did have to buy was another rad top hose which was only to get the right angle for me and make it a bit easier.

I actually used the complete clutch from the old engine after inspecting both pressure plates and reckoning that at least it should make it easier for remembering what parts needed replacing with what for the future. I have a list of all the different bits that have been changed so that I order the correct bits if something breaks.

Since mine was a six-pot I already have 11 inch drums and twin cylinders and when I rebuilt my Landy a couple of years ago I replaced all the cylinders, shoes, pipes and hoses for the complete system and it didn't half make a difference.

 ;)

In all honesty if I had got the parts to hand and not had to keep going off and getting various other bits needed I could have probably done it in two days.