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clutch push rod
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Topic: clutch push rod (Read 14879 times)
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andygod
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clutch push rod
«
on:
November 29, 2013, 06:23:44 »
I've removed and replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders and flexible hose. In the process the clutch pushrod came astray from the clutch arm. does anybody have any tips for getting the rod and plastic clip back into place. I've tried re assembling things without the clip but the rod either failed to connect with the ball or jumped off.
Andygod
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hrh_dave
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Re: clutch push rod
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Reply #1 on:
November 29, 2013, 07:53:51 »
Andy,
Apparently cable ties are the way to go... I cant quiet remember how I did mine last time but a bit of diging on tinterweb might help... Im about to have to do it all again once I find a gearbox..
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Re: clutch push rod
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Reply #2 on:
November 29, 2013, 19:31:47 »
Fitting the cable tie (whilst you have access to the bell housing) to the rod retainer is to stop this exact thing from happening. The reason being is that if not careful the rod will often detach when changing the clutch slave and it is unlikely you will ever manage to relocate without splitting the bell housing from engine.
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andygod
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Re: clutch push rod
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Reply #3 on:
December 03, 2013, 19:58:57 »
I tried for hrs to relocate the rod and its plastic clip without ant success. In desperation I cut a hole in the case using a tank cutter. Access was good and I managed to relocate the rod and plastic clip easily. I then riveted a plate over the hole using silicon to seal the joint. I don't know why Landrover don't have an inspection plate here to make things easy.
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Nobber
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Re: clutch push rod
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Reply #4 on:
June 05, 2014, 15:40:12 »
Fit the clip to the rod, insert rod inside a 10mm tube (I use copper) then insert the lot into the slave cylinder hole in the bell housing.
The copper tube will hold the rod steady and keep the clip in place while you clip it to the clutch fork.
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Range Rover Blues
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Re: clutch push rod
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Reply #5 on:
August 02, 2014, 22:23:11 »
In desperation I've heard of people sticking the pushrod to the clutch fork with silicone then assembling the slave a day later when it's set. The silicone just breaks down in use (or stays put) but I'm not sure if it works as well on the TDi as on the V8 which has a little spike on the back of the ball IIRC.
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