clutch

[Gary]

Hi

I have a problem with my clutch..........loosing the pedal and not able to change gear until the clutch has been pumped up.............not funny when in traffic, I can tell you  :shock:

does this sound like the slave cylinder going down ?  :roll:

if so, how difficult is it to change, any pitfalls i should look out for ?

I did change the fluid tonight as I don't have a replacement part yet...................I found that the master cylinder had a black sludge in it once I had drained the original fluid.........I obviously thoroughly cleaned this out and drained through quite alot of new fluid to try and flush the system out as best as possible.

What causes the black sludge?  :roll:

Any info will be appreciated  

Regards, gary  :)

[hobbit]

If like the disco it has a damper unit in line, sometimes that can cause problems, ask wanderer. Check around to see if there is any leakage, also if you have a wading plug in the bell housing, pop it and have a look there sometimes the slave can leak inwards

[Bob696]

I had a similar problem. If the clutch was held down for a long time then the 'bite point' was creeping towards the floor. No signs of leakage anywhere.

Turns out the cllutch piston seal was leaking but other seals (dust cap?) was stopping any exterior leaking. Pump the peddle a few times and all the fluid went back to where it was supposed to be.

New master cylinder from Paddocks was £12.

[davidlandy]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the slave cylinder

if you are loosing fluid from the master cylinder it tends to leak down the pedal so you can see it. if its the slave cylinder it leaks from the wading plug hole, but on mine it took a fair amount of time before you could see where the fluid was going.

[Gary]

Hi Kev, Bob & David

Thankyou for your speedy replies  


this is a little [!Expletive Deleted!] of a problem because nothing is obvious......  :?

No obvious leaking that I can see

The Master Cylinder was not low when inspected

No fluid has crept down the foot pedal

I seem to have 2 wading plugs in my bell housing, they are similar to the drain plugs in the diff casings (ie. 1/2" square drive recessed plugs)
I have had both these plugs out and they were dry as a bone

I don't think there is an inline damper but I might be wrong, where abouts would that be situated and what would it look like?

Please excuse me if I ask what seems to be obvious questions, I'm not a natural mechanic but I want to learn as much as possible.

When you change the slave cylinder, is there an awkard clip assembly that I have to be carefull of. I'm sure I have read somewhere but can't remember exactly what it is. If you get something wrong it can be a git and could cause me to loose something in the bell housing?

This problem has been getting slowly worse over time but the pedal failure is intermittent. I changed the fluid because it has never been changed from new. The pedal seems a little more stiff like it use to be but I'm sure the bite point is lower than it use to be.......I'm sure one of the cylinders is going down.

I'm going to order both Master and Slave Cylinder replacements but not sure which one to change first  :roll:
Whatever I don't use will go into my spares package

Any info will gratefully received.

Kind Regards, gary

[Guy90]

Hi Kev, Bob & David

Thankyou for your speedy replies  


this is a little !Expletive Deleted! of a problem because nothing is obvious......  :?

No obvious leaking that I can see

I'll bet it's the slave then. Mine was leaking for weeks before it finally went. It was only in the last couple of days that fluid dripped out. The level will be falling very slightly. If you left it for twoo weeks you would see a more marked dropped.

The Master Cylinder was not low when inspected

No fluid has crept down the foot pedal[/quote] Pretty much confirms it's the slave but see below.

I seem to have 2 wading plugs in my bell housing, they are similar to the drain plugs in the diff casings (ie. 1/2" square drive recessed plugs)
I have had both these plugs out and they were dry as a bone

I don't think there is an inline damper but I might be wrong, where abouts would that be situated and what would it look like?

There won't be. Only fitted to Discos

Please excuse me if I ask what seems to be obvious questions, I'm not a natural mechanic but I want to learn as much as possible.

Don't worry. Owning a Land Rover will quickly make you one!

When you change the slave cylinder, is there an awkard clip assembly that I have to be carefull of. I'm sure I have read somewhere but can't remember exactly what it is. If you get something wrong it can be a git and could cause me to loose something in the bell housing?

There is. Its meant to keep the plunger in place on the fork. mine broke off when I did it. But according to the manual it doesn't matter as long as line everything up properly. The plastic bit is still there in the bell housing!

This problem has been getting slowly worse over time but the pedal failure is intermittent. I changed the fluid because it has never been changed from new. The pedal seems a little more stiff like it use to be but I'm sure the bite point is lower than it use to be.......I'm sure one of the cylinders is going down.[/qoute] There would be an improvment if you changed fluid as clutch fluid does go off (water content rises etc etc) but it will be seal failure.

I'm going to order both Master and Slave Cylinder replacements but not sure which one to change first  :roll:
Whatever I don't use will go into my spares package

Do both. In my expericence one will always follow the other due to one suddenly working at full pressure again. It stresses the bit that is slightly worn out and that fails.

Any info will gratefully received.

Kind Regards, gary

This job is a bit fiddly but take time and follow the steps in the Haynes and you should be fine. The slave is made more difficult by the lack of room. My advice is to buy genuine parts only and get a bleed kit as well.

HTH

[iianorthants]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the slave cylinder

if you are loosing fluid from the master cylinder it tends to leak down the pedal so you can see it. if its the slave cylinder it leaks from the wading plug hole, but on mine it took a fair amount of time before you could see where the fluid was going.

helps to give it a good clean underneath  :twisted:  :roll:

[Gary]

Hi Guy

Thanx for your informative reply.

I'll order up the genuine parts on Monday, Oh, & a Haynes. Funny enough I do have a workshop manual but the relatively more standard jobs like this don't have much detail in for a complete novice such as myself.
How much should i be looking to pay for genuine parts for the master and slave? Just so I know  

I will post my progress and any other questions that may arise.

I do have a sealey brake bleed kit that I purchased from Difflock.com. It's one that you connect upto a compressor. Do you know what psi I should set the compressor to when using this particular piece of kit? No instructions came with it. A mate of mine came round yesterday and we had a go with it. In the end we did the bleeding manually because we weren't sure if the kit was allowing air back into the system. It seemed to take ages to bleed the system to the point where no air was coming out. I suppose this could be the fact that the seals are going. Anyway, the clear tube from the bleeder did make seeing the air bubbles easier.

Once I have this job done, I will be checking my brake pads and completely change my brake fluid. I'm sure the fluid must be up for a change judging by the state of the clutch fluid.

And I've just noticed that my OME steering damper is leaking oil........
& my camshaft cover seal is leaking from the back of the block........
& my transfer case is leaking like a good'n   :(

It like my Landy is crying from every orifice  

As they say, "it's never over, in a Rover"

Once again, many thanx for all your input everybody.

Kind regards, gary  :)

[nzrover]

I'm going to order both Master and Slave Cylinder replacements but not sure which one to change first  :roll:
Whatever I don't use will go into my spares package

Replace both - then you're sure that there's no detritus left inside the system that might destroy the seal in the new slave cylinder.

[Xtremeteam]

I do have a sealey brake bleed kit that I purchased from Difflock.com. It's one that you connect upto a compressor. Do you know what psi I should set the compressor to when using this particular piece of kit?

the 1 i use at work for bleeding brakes & clutches normally pump it up to about 15-25 psi