Urgent Diagnosis help needed

[gords]

My Discovery broke down today - I was pulling away when something went bang/clang/etc and I lost drive.

Selecting diff-lock enables it to move, but non diff-lock (high or low) goes nowhere.

So, where do I start on diagnosing what's broken? Of course, if anyone local fancies a look - please feel free

[Wanderer]

I had similar and it was the rear diff. Sounds like you've either broken the halfshalfts, a diff or a propshaft has gone.
It could be internal but I doubt it.

Ed

[Thrasher]

I have a diff centre here you can have if that has failed.

(i.e. no crown wheel)

My money is on a snapped pin.

oh and just in case you were thinking about it - DO NOT DRIVE IT EVEN WITH DIFF LOCK IN - you might push some metal through the casing or damage the crown wheel - and then it will cost *even more*

[muddyweb]

I stand by what I said on the phone ;-)

If the rear prop is turning then it is a rear axle problem... pull the shafts and if they are OK then you need a new diff.

[Wanderer]

http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Wanderer/gallery/Diff%20damage

has the damage done to mine after not listening to my head.

Ed

[beast5680]

not a cv joint gone?

[muddyweb]

Gords reported that he reckoned the rear prop was turning when he tried to drive, so it points to a fault with the rear axle.

[beast5680]

aah all is clear now, you know whats next on the shopping list, gords wants a heavy duty diff and half shafts :lol:

[Wanderer]

I forgot the CV  :oops:

Ed

[Wanderer]

If it is a CV Paddocks are doing them at £25 +vat You might get free postage if you order a pair. I think you get free postage over £50.

Ed

[gords]

I stand by what I said on the phone ;-)

Yes, thanks for your help Tim, much appreciated :)

If the rear prop is turning then it is a rear axle problem... pull the shafts and if they are OK then you need a new diff.

OK, dummies guide to "pulling the shafts" please

[muddyweb]

Take the road wheel off... undo the 6 bolts holding the driving member to the hub, give it a yank.

Have some rag / a tray handy to catch the oil that will come out of the end... it shouldn't be much, but it will be messy.

The shafts should come out, one will be longer than the other.  The end that goes into the diff should be properly machined with splines on it.

My money is on the diff to be honest, but you have to take the shafts out to change that anyway.

[Xtremeteam]

If it is a CV Paddocks are doing them at £25 +vat You might get free postage if you order a pair

they mite b the cheap recon joints that are quite soft,

[Wanderer]

If you jack up the end your removing it might not be so messy.
I hate Ep90.

Ed

[gords]

My money is on the diff to be honest, but you have to take the shafts out to change that anyway.

Is that a straight forward job - or does it need specialist setting up? Does the whole axle have to come off the car?

[muddyweb]

If you get a complete diff it is a nut & bolt job.. the only specialist tools you need are big muscles ;-)

The axle stays on the car.

If you only have the diff centre, it is a bit more complex and you need to set it up properly.

[Xtremeteam]

can do 1 in 1/2 hour but only cos ive done them b4
piece o p133 to do,do u have alloys or steel wheels?

remove rear prop,drain oil,remove rear shafts,remove the nuts holdin the diff in viola it should come out no probs,refit is  the reverse of remooval except u swear in different places

[gords]

can do 1 in 1/2 hour but only cos ive done them b4

So, why couldn't you live in Dorking then :roll:  

piece o p133 to do,do u have alloys or steel wheels?

Alloy - why?

remove rear prop,drain oil,remove rear shafts,remove the nuts holdin the diff in viola it should come out no probs,refit is  the reverse of remooval except u swear in different places

Well, sounds easy-peasy :)  :lol:

[Xtremeteam]

if u had steel u could leave the wheels on & not have to jack it up,(why i run disco steels n not rangie steels on the racer)u will need bout 2 1/2 litres ep90 2 drive flange gaskets n a diff gasket

[gords]

if u had steel u could leave the wheels on & not have to jack it up,(why i run disco steels n not rangie steels on the racer)u will need bout 2 1/2 litres ep90 2 drive flange gaskets n a diff gasket

Nope, sorry, you've lost me :oops:  How can you leave the wheels on if you need to remove the half shafts? :?

I just put it into diff-lock and 1st gear and jacked up each wheel individually - both rear wheels rotated, but the front wheel (only tried one) didn't (as expected?!).

So, does that mean it's the diff, or could it still be one of the half shafts?

[Wanderer]

You can't really tell without removing the shafts. You need to remove them anyway to change the diff.

Steel wheels have the centre piece missing and there's enough room to remove the half shafts with the wheel still in position.

Ed

[Xtremeteam]

shouldnt have brought the steel wheels into it but ill explain any way,if u had steels u can pull the shafts through the centre as they have a large hole,but as u have alloys u cant do that so you will have to remove the wheels,just means it takes a bit longer n more messin about with a jack n stands etc

[gords]

OK, I think I now have a picture of what I'm doing  :)  lets hope for a sunny morning tomorrow [-o<

I've had a quick look for the possible "bits" - half shafts approx £35, recon diff approx £150? :shock:  Does that sound about right?

[Xtremeteam]

im no sure o the prices as ive got large stock of bits that i use in the racer but a diff is normally between £50 & a ton although u can pick them up cheap on ebay

[Spooky]

Gords,
If you're having snags I may be able to pop up in the afternoon if work is quiet tomorrow ...

[gords]

Gords,
If you're having snags I may be able to pop up in the afternoon if work is quiet tomorrow ...

Thanks for the offer Spooky :)

The plan is to remove stuff tomorrow morning, but I have a meeting at 1pm which takes out at least 12 - 2:30pm.

If I get as stuck as a stuck thing, I'll shout  :lol:

[gords]

Well, it's not the half shafts - they came out in one piece with perfect splines at the required end

Got to the point where I've undone the diff nuts (not taken them off completely yet), but the diff seems pretty well stuck in place! What's the best way to persuade it to come off?

Also, how heavy are these things - do I need a helper?

[Thrasher]

It is sealed on with hylomar (you will need some to put it back on). It is HEAVY, so a helper is advised.

[muddyweb]

Give it a good wiggle :-)

You might even need to give it a thump with a big rubber mallet to get it loose, then it is a case of wiggling it out of the casing... it will probably get stuck / snagged on the way out.

If you are big, butch and strong you can manage them on your own...  but it is a big lump, so a trolley jack and/or another pair of hands might help.

[Wanderer]

If you leave a couple of nuts on either top or bottom then that will stop the diff from falling on you.

As Neil said it is well sealed. EP90 will find it's way out of even the tiniest pinhole. The brake pipe mount is at the top. You might want to make sure it isn't stuck to the diff housing as you remove it.

Sounds like the carrier or pins. As you weren't off road it might be the pins. If you look at my pictures I managed to shatter the carrier and shoot the pins out of the back cover. The diff guard stopped Paul from getting one through his wndscreen.

Ed