Urgent Diagnosis help needed

[davidlandy]

Well, it's not the half shafts - they came out in one piece with perfect splines at the required end

Got to the point where I've undone the diff nuts (not taken them off completely yet), but the diff seems pretty well stuck in place! What's the best way to persuade it to come off?

Also, how heavy are these things - do I need a helper?

when mine was stuck in I undid the filler plug and put a bar in there to help it off.

after a tap with the hammer it broke the seal and hey presto out it came.

[gords]

Give it a good wiggle :-)

You might even need to give it a thump with a big rubber mallet to get it loose, then it is a case of wiggling it out of the casing... it will probably get stuck / snagged on the way out.

Wiggling didn't work  Gave it a thump or two but it didn't budge - and I ran out of time.

If you are big, butch and strong

You've met me ... what do you reckon  :lol:   ... OK, I'll find a strong helper :roll:  Any big, butch and strong chaps (or chapesses )  out there then? :)

[ChrisW]

If you're doing it from underneath lying on the floor... get a trolley jack under it - you really don't want something like that dropping onto your chest or any other part of the body  :shock: - jacking it up may help to loosen it off as well  

[xmob]

Any big, butch and strong chaps (or chapesses )  out there then? :)

Whoooaaa!  This is a forum for off road enthusiats.   :D

Seriously, find some way to support the diff when removing it.  I had one land on my chest, then clouted my head when I jumped up in pain, then clouted it again when I recoiled back, ouch!

Putting it back isn't so bad, because you already know how heavy it is.

[Wanderer]

If you leave a couple of nuts on either top or bottom then that will stop the diff from falling on you.

As Neil said it is well sealed. EP90 will find it's way out of even the tiniest pinhole. The brake pipe mount is at the top. You might want to make sure it isn't stuck to the diff housing as you remove it.

Sounds like the carrier or pins. As you weren't off road it might be the pins. If you look at my pictures I managed to shatter the carrier and shoot the pins out of the back cover. The diff guard stopped Paul from getting one through his wndscreen.

Ed

Just re-read this and it sounds pants.
Undo the nuts but leave them near the end of the threads to allow some movement of the casing while you are freeing it. A stanley blade will help to free off the silicon/hylomar.

Ed

[gords]

Right then - trolley jack it is

Anyone have suggestions on where to get a diff from?

[possible stupid question alert]Can I replace it with something that will correct the gearing after putting 235/85 tyres on?[/possible stupid question alert]

[Spooky]

Standard Disco gearing (205 tyres) = 27.4 mph/1000prm in 5th
235/86-16 tyres = 30.1 mph/1000rpm
Change Diffs to 4.11 ratio with 235s = 25.9 mph/1000rpm

So to answer your question - not really! :?

As to where to get a diff, no idea at the moment - sorry! :roll:

[muddyweb]

How many splines on the end of the shafts Gords ?

I've got a variety of diffs here, could probably sort something out for you.

[Thrasher]

I would assume 24 spline based on the year/model. As I said Gords, I have a diff centre, 24 spline you can have for free.

[Spooky]

I was about to ask how many splines are on the halfshafts and how many bolts are in the drive flange ... :)

[muddyweb]

I would assume 24 spline based on the year/model. As I said Gords, I have a diff centre, 24 spline you can have for free.

I know what *should* be in there... but this is a Land Rover, so thought it best to check ;-)

[Thrasher]

<grin>

Hence my *assume* :)

[gords]

How many splines on the end of the shafts Gords ?

I've got a variety of diffs here, could probably sort something out for you.

I've not actually counted them yet - but my guess would be 24.

As I said Gords, I have a diff centre, 24 spline you can have for free.

Thanks for the offer Neil, but I'm assuming it's not a "bolt straight on" solution - is that right? I don't have the kit/skill/etc to rebuild a diff

how many bolts are in the drive flange

Eh? :?  Which bit is that? :oops:

[Spooky]

how many bolts are in the drive flange

Eh? :?  Which bit is that? :oops:

The bit that the prop shaft bolts to.

[gords]

how many bolts are in the drive flange

Eh? :?  Which bit is that? :oops:

The bit that the prop shaft bolts to.

Ah, where the rubber "thing" attaches? There's 3 bolts.

[gords]

How many splines on the end of the shafts Gords ?

I've got a variety of diffs here, could probably sort something out for you.

There was a number on the diff itself - does that identify what type it is?

[Spooky]

The part number for a 24-spline 3-bolt diff is FTC 3723.

That maybe the number that Gordon's referring to.

[Spooky]

I've just finished finding and printing off the instructions and specifications for replacing a diff centre.

I do have the necessary kit, but the diff must be inspected forst to ensure that no further damage has occured.

[Wanderer]

If you're having to spend any money is it possibly time to look at fitting an LSD or something similar?

Ed

[gords]

If you're having to spend any money is it possibly time to look at fitting an LSD or something similar?

Ed

Isn't that a mind altering drug? :?

[Digsit]

Gords. Sorry missed this thread as been a bit busy in the house DIY department.

I replaced my rear diff a few weeks ago. Never done it before and apart from it being bloody heavy (saying that I managed to remove and refit it without a trolley jack) everything was quite straight forward :D

I bought a second hand one off a similar year Disco on ebay. £35.00 and it is loads better than my old one

[Wanderer]

It might as well be a mind altering drug at the prices.
Limited Slip Diff or a Tru trac.

Oh how we all wish money wasn't a problem?

Ed

[gords]

OK, got the diff off. Can't see anything obviously broken (although I probably don't know what I'm looking at :roll: )

I can turn the propshaft bit and hold either/both of the wheel bits - so what/how should these two bits join? :?

There is another picture in my gallery.

[muddyweb]

Well... on the face of it... that looks OK...

Is everything secure and attached ?


We could be looking at a CV joint after all, and the rear prop wasn't actually turning.

Time to start stripping the hubs  :?

[gords]

Well... on the face of it... that looks OK...

Is everything secure and attached ?


We could be looking at a CV joint after all, and the rear prop wasn't actually turning.

Time to start stripping the hubs  :?

The propshaft definitely turned ... when I got it home I did high box, 1st gear, let out the clutch and the propshaft went round ... car stayed still :roll:

Shouldn't there be a fixed connection between the input/propshaft and each output/half shaft? I put one of the half shafts back in, turned the propshaft bit and the half shaft didn't turn. :?

[gords]

Oh yes, also

I just put it into diff-lock and 1st gear and jacked up each wheel individually - both rear wheels rotated, but the front wheel (only tried one) didn't (as expected?!).

That's rotated by hand - not with the engine running

[Wanderer]

I'd be inclined to stick the wheels back on as long as you've removed the rear propshaft off the handbrake drum.

Then select diff lock and see if the car will move. If it won't move the problem is on the front.

If it moves then it's definately on the rear end.

Ed

[Thrasher]

ok,

When you turn the flange, does the crown wheel go around, or does it just make clonk clonk noises????

[gords]

In diff-lock (rear propshaft removed) the car drives.

Turning the flange causes the crown wheel (the biggest one?) to go round. With the flange held, I can still turn the 4 interlocked cogs in the middle (where the half shafts go). I assume that's not right?!

[muddyweb]

Well... we know it is the diff then, if the prop was turning and you went nowhere.

So.. we need to get a new diff centre sorted.