Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: MTyrrell on October 29, 2005, 20:58:01
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I've started the TDi conversion an my 110 today.
One thing i have noticed is the discovery radiator is smaller in width than the old radiator brackets on the chassis which are now too far apart.
I have had a look at stefan's photographs, on his website, of his conversion and noticed the radiator and inter cooler are sat in a metal frame that uses the old mounting brackets. It this a part i should have got from the disco when the engine was removed or are they available else where?
One other thing is the TDi has a PAS pump on it but my landy doesn't have Power steering.
Would i be right in thinking the pump cannot be run dry?
Is there anyway i can remove the pump but leave the pulley in place or is there an extended belt that will reach the alternator without going around the PAS pulley?
Cheers
Matt
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The rad frame is important. In my 300 conversion the frame slotted in well and I jusr re-drilled the holes as they were not in the same position but very close.
I'd try and get the frame if possible
Not sure about the power steering. Not tempted to put power steering box in and make it a joy to drive compared to having arms like jeff capes!!!
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if you get the rad frame you can build the rad & interccoler up & then it just falls in the hole vacated by the previous rad,uses exactly the same mountings on all the rad frames& rads if that makes sense,
the pas? :roll: i agree with ash,would be a benifit to fit pas
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Thanks for the info, i spoke to the chap i got the engine off and he still had the frame, went to pick it up this afternoon. :D
Also went to Steve Parkers today to get the down pipe conversion, very helpful lot, got some useful pointers on the conversion, they mentioned that the bell housing doesn't match the discovery engine so ill have to drill/tap the fly wheel housing and move some studs to line everything up. :(
Dose anyone know what size the hole will need tapping to to take the studs?
Ok you've sold the idea of power steering to me, will go and have a look for a box and tank. I was just been tight fisted. :roll:
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as for the bellhousing having to tap it etc i didnt, :?
round the top is nuts as per TD but at the bottom just used m12 bolts(17mm head) where there was studs n nuts before
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I agree, I only used the studs which lined up.
The radiator surround I used was from a Discovery, I simply cut the side brackets off. The whole thing sat too high though, so I cut the brackets off the bottom which have the locating lugs attached, then I simply drilled new holes where the old lugs used to be, then placed 2 long thin bolts through these holes in the bracket, tigthened with washers and nuts, thus giving the remainder of the bolts enough length to act as lugs to sit back in the original rubber grommets on the chassis. Then simply made 2 top brackets and Bob's your Uncle as they say!!
Stef
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TDi now in, held in with all the studs that lined up, three bolts, and half an M10 tap :oops: .
Tried starting it this afternoon but it looks although the fuel lift pump expired during the conversion.
It wont pump fuel, if i suck fuel up the pipe and reconnect it so i can see fuel in the pipe then try and start it the fuel doesn't move any further up the pipe.
I made all new fuel lines which are transparent so can see the the fuel.
Just waiting on an order to come with new pies for the air intake and the PAS box then it's all done.
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Well done mate!!!
Glad you did the PAS, well worth it :wink:
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Stef, i like the conversing guide on your website, verry helpfull.
Well done that man. =D>
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Stef, i like the conversing guide on your website, verry helpfull.
Well done that man. =D>
So whats the website then??? Do tell :wink:
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Stefan pointed us to it in a previous thred
http://www.90county.co.uk/
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Thanks Matt, I'll keep updating it when I remember little things about the install!
Stef
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Guys,
Just a quick update, my clutch pipe melted this morning where it comes in to close contact with the downpipe, so wrapping the exhaust in my case was not enough. I'm going to make sure when I replace the pipe that I put some heat reflecting blanket on the pipes too!!
:oops: :oops:
Stef
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Just a word of warning... be careful with exhaust wrap... especially on Land Rover engines, it can have a habit of getting covered in oil... and then when the exhaust gets nice and hot you get a superb smoke generator under the bonnet ! :shock:
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Tim,
I'll bear that in mind. I've discovered the clutch pipe actually failed on the rubber section, just below the top union, and looks to be simple wear and tear. However, I can't get the top union separated, even after removing the downpipe and exhaust for access, so it looks like it's going to become a garden feature 'cos I've had enough off the damn thing now!!
:( :(
Stef
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Steff i undone the pipe in engine bay and fabricated a new bracket and moved it over as far as i could but also if you look the Muddeflector at the bottom thier is a Metal bracket which acts nicley as a heat sheild so i re routed the pipe behind it and re connected