Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: chuggaman on November 11, 2005, 19:49:06
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i have picked up the diffs with lockers built in.
they seem to be 24 spline(not counted but more than 10)
how do i tell which is the front and rear??
and do i need uprated shafts or will normal 24 spline shafts be ok.
finally any more usefull imformation on fitting.
thanks in advance
mike
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the diffs fit either end so shouldnt matter,although if they are different types of locker it would,
hmmmm....
if you have 24 spline shafts already thats a good start as they are "ment" to be stronger
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mike one is a detroit(rear)and one is the truetrac lsd(front)
but i cannot tell them apart
mike
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Tru trac has helical gears in it, tru lock has no gears, except crown wheel and pinion, if you look at D44 site, i believe there are some pictures.
Dont mix them up, as a tru lock in front means nasty road manners.
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You should be able to turn the ATB by hand, or with a half shaft in it, the locker (unlocker) you won't, it requires quite a bit of grip to unlock the cam mechanism and I'm told they only work going forewards too.
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so this is the rear
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/upload/large_174.jpg
and this is the front
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/upload/large_400.jpg
mike
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yours is a 200 isnt it? You will have 10 spline like mine were. 24 spline are stronger(here comes another debate) because the stresses are spread over a much larger surface area.
Unless you buy heavy duty from ashcroft or someone and they have made them as a replacement you may find I was right and the halfshafts are too long!!! (did warn you) In which case you need to change the stub axle and the entire fronts....may be better buying complete 24 spline front set up...its the way i did it.
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dint think these will be on by the weekend then!
mike
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i was bolting the drive flanges when i discovered the horrible truth!!i thought hang on the bolts are too long there is still a gap!
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think ill make some calls tomorrow
mike
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The later 200's had 24 spline diffs fitted.
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its dead easy to tell from the outside IIIRC as the 10 spline shafts have a rangie style domed end on the shafts & the 24 spline shafts had a flat end cap (this is on the rear BTW)
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Quite right Mikee the 10 spline is more bulbous (spooling) and the 24 spline is flatter.
Mine is a 1993 so I reckon they changed around 92ish.
Someone on MC took some photos at one time showing the difference.
You can see the difference easy enough without removing the wheels if you've got steel wheels.
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ok
the rear is on.it appears mine is a 24 spline and the shafts are the same length.and its driving.the only problem is :evil:
there are four bolts either side that bolt onto the axle.the 90 diffs are a little thicker at these four bolt points.so now effectivley my diff is held on by four less bolts(though after a 5 mile drive no leaks yet)
can these studs be extracted to allow me to put bolts in instead
the same problem will arise on the front
thankyou very much guys
mike
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take the diff out
bash problem studs with a hammer to push them out,align new studs in hole,draw up using large nutas a spacer & a 9/16 with washer,refit gasket,put diff back in
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take the diff out
bash problem studs with a hammer to push them out,align new studs in hole,draw up using large nutas a spacer & a 9/16 with washer,refit gasket,put diff back in
bash them out??
how are they fitted n there.theres no signs on the other side
mike
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How much thread is visible?
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How much thread is visible?
about 3mm max
mike
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Also, most need about a 3mm spacer behind the crown wheel, or you end up adjusting the crown wheel so far over to get the mesh right between the crown wheel and pinion, that the locking ring is only on about 3/4 threads.
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ive re read & i think my reply was correct,what nuts cant you do up ? is it the ones that actually hold the diff in all the way round??
if so IIRC these are studs which have a splined bit on them(like a wheel stud) which you can get different lenghts for "i think"
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chugga i hate to tell you the way i got around the same problem. I removed material from the diff till i could tighten the nut down . you only have to take a couple of mill away and when tightened the stud will show through the top of the nut which is sufficient...brutal i know
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i tought of that one bulli :shock:
mike you are right its the row of studs that are sunk into the axle and hold the diff in place.
this aint gonna be fun
i knew things were going too easy
mike
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right ive done the front one(bit of a mission with those 14 mm cv joint bolts.
back to the back one again.
think ill be sleeping at whaddon :-&
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
mike