Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: drum on December 17, 2005, 17:52:47
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Well I've spent all day discovering that you can't fir QT Radius Arms to a 54 Plate 110!!! They Bind on the Outrigger under the bulkhead.
Anybody hot any idea.
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if it was not a 54 plate id beat the hell out of where it catches witha sledge hammer!
(sorry i used to own a suzuki so didint really care)
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That and the Angle Grinder were both considered, I also contemplated grinding 1/4inch of the side of the radius arms, but thought it might weaken them too much.
I'm not adverse to gentle modification to either but only after some thought not in the heat of the moment when the b&^%$%y things don't fit.
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cnat say i would advise grinding the arms, due to weakening, their that size for a reason.
must be worth looking in to removeing the smallest amount needed to free them up from catching with a grinder?
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I think that you should have a quick chat with QT before you grind or hack away at anything - frustrating I know but wait till monday m8
QT must have a solution to your chassis, its not exactly rare is it.
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thats odd,although i was woking on a 52 plate crew cab & noted that it has different bushes on the chassis end (larger)
on my 90 racer with the standard arms i managed to rip the sticky out bit off due to the arms catching & its not a nice sight,id get intouch with Qt & see what they say
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Sounds like a frustrating day Dave :cry:
Iv'e got the SR one's on my (older) motor, but as there's only about 6 months in it I would be surprised if the chassis had been altered, but .............. with Sollihull you never know.
Just for your info the Radius arms are 36mm wide and there is 13mm clearance between the chassis/outrigger and the radius arm, don't know if this will help, but as I've been out in the freezing cold again :shock: and only just thawed out from today's stint with the brakes I reckon you owe me a pint anyway :)
Dave
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I think that you should have a quick chat with QT before you grind or hack away at anything - frustrating I know but wait till monday m8
QT must have a solution to your chassis, its not exactly rare is it.
That is indeed plan A at the moment.
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Just for your info the Radius arms are 36mm wide and there is 13mm clearance between the chassis/outrigger and the radius arm, don't know if this will help, but as I've been out in the freezing cold again :shock: and only just thawed out from today's stint with the brakes I reckon you owe me a pint anyway :)
They're out in the cold dark garage at the moment, but that sounds like the right sort of thickness on mine. However the old ones have quite a narrow neck, and I don't think even with those the clearance is 13 mm, which suggests something may well have changed.
The good news is I did get the front pads changed, the old ones are at about 2mm, so I did them while I was there. The bad news is that I notice the front arm is catching on the steering guard despite me altering it earlier in the year :( So I'm going to have to trim it again!!!, and the front arm is bent Oops :(
I'm sure we can exchange pints when we excahnge shackles :lol: :lol:
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Definitely speak to Dave @ QT if he hasn't come across this before (and I'd be surprised if he hasn't) he will want to sort it out, because he will have other potential customers with the same problem.
Regards
H
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QTs are 40mm Wide.
Originals are 25mm Wide at that point.
The Gap between the Original and the OutRigger is 8mm.
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I hate to say it Drum, but it looks like you now need the QT tubular space frame chassis. Throw away the old fashioned beam chassis, and slip your panels onto the space frame. I know its an 04 plate and all that but Im afraid its the only way foreward for you....... :lol:
Rollazuki
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Well I got a response from Dave by email at 8.30 this morning. Propmt Service and helpful :D
Qt Services Ltd wrote:
>Hi Dave
>Sorry to see that you have had this problem
>We have never encountered this before, I can only assume that outrigger
>is slightly wider than others which can happen on defender chassis.
>The best option is to lightly grind away the inner web of the radius arm
>to give sufficient clearance to stop the fouling and then paint the bare
>steel.
>Try to ensure that you remove the material in a gentle arc so that there
>are no stress points in the arm.
>This may sound a bit dramatic to do it this way but the arm is well over
>strength at the chassis end due to its construction. It will tolerate
>this without a problem.
>I hope this helps
>However if you need any more help just drop me a line
>Regards
>Dave Marsh
>
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After thinking about this all day, I've just been under the Defender, and measured both sides accurately. And can confirm that the Radius Arm on the Passenger Side is 5mm closer to the chassis than on the Drivers Side!!!
Now the important question isn't why, or how, but now that I've got to paint them after modification, do I paint them subtle black, or "Hey Look I've Modified It Red"??
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I go for subtlty everytime. 8)
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I go for subtlty everytime. 8)
Says the man in the Cow Pattern Disco :lol: :lol:
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Big and Bold......
RED :)
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After thinking about this all day, I've just been under the Defender, and measured both sides accurately. And can confirm that the Radius Arm on the Passenger Side is 5mm closer to the chassis than on the Drivers Side!!!
Now the important question isn't why, or how, but now that I've got to paint them after modification, do I paint them subtle black, or "Hey Look I've Modified It Red"??
Have you checked your panhard rod bushes. This could be something to do with it not lining up properly??
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I've not examined them indetail, but they didn't strike me as stuffed in anyway when I spent all day under there on Saturday, could they really move the front axle over by that much?? Mind you if there is a 5mm difference I suppose that's only 2.5mm out. I think I've got the polybush ones here to replace them, so I'll replace them before I grind anything just incase, but I think it's still going to be a grind to fit job, maybe just not quite so much.
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Don't forget to swap the large washer over to the new arms. :wink:
I know someone who fitted new qt arms and didn't swap the large washer over. :lol:
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i did that on one side of mine
#-o
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Don't forget to swap the large washer over to the new arms. :wink:
I know someone who fitted new qt arms and didn't swap the large washer over. :lol:
That's alright, that photo was at the point at which I'd just put it all back, and I thought I'd photograph the differences before I put the old one back on. Honest :D
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Thinking about what SharpShooter was saying about bushes, could the 5mm difference actually be caused by my lift?? Surely as the axle drops the Panhard Rod, pulls the axle towards the Drivers Side??? So with a 2" Lift, the Axle will be pulled ever so slightly (like about 2.5mm) to the right.
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Yes that could be correct. I know you can buy adjustable ones. Just change the bushes first, if you have them, and measure again.
I did the panhard rod bushes on my 110 recently, and it made all matter of changes to the vehicles ride, and handling.
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I go for subtlty everytime. 8)
Says the man in the Cow Pattern Disco :lol: :lol:
Damn, I'd hoped you wouldn't spot that! :lol:
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After thinking about this all day, I've just been under the Defender, and measured both sides accurately. And can confirm that the Radius Arm on the Passenger Side is 5mm closer to the chassis than on the Drivers Side!!!
Now the important question isn't why, or how, but now that I've got to paint them after modification, do I paint them subtle black, or "Hey Look I've Modified It Red"??
Yes you will find that the lift has altered the axle location. :roll:
I have a 5 inch lift and that has moved the axle over quiet significantly.
True you can buy adjustable rods but I simply cut and sleeved mine. \:D/
The tubular section of an old rear radius arm slips snugly over the panhard rod, so cut it and sleeve it, then weld one end of the sleeve to the panhard rod then refit to the Landy and weld the other end of the sleeve at the point where everything is in line and the axle is centered as before the lift. =D>
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Jeez, after reading this thread, I checked mine out I didd'nt realise just how close they were to the outriggers, I may need to consider a little mod in that department just for peace of mind..... :wink:
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Well I got the PanHard Rod rebushed today, couldn't get any new bushes afterall so I had to remachine the PolyBushes for the Old Steel Tubes. So I'll have to redo that when I find the proper ones :(
I've also got the QT Arms ready for painting no. I've ground a neat curve into the insiders of them, and one is slightly deeper than the other as per my finding on the defender. So hopefully subject to weather I'll get them painted tomorrow.
Then after Xmas I should be able to tify up the welding on the Outriggers, and finally get them fitted.
I'm getting there slowly.
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Could you post some more pics when you have finnished? I was just going to leave my radius arms as they arrived, never thought of painting them!!! Would like to see how yours come out!
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Finally got these fitted today. Full story, and piccies are HERE (http://lrtech.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=115)