Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: nickW on February 23, 2006, 11:56:35
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hello
does anyone have any tips for fitting my 2" lift that i have bought, can i do it with out using spring compressors
ive been told its alot easier to do with a hi lift jack, so does anyone know the cheapest place to buy a hi lift jack?
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You can do it without compressors but its a ball ache,machine mart sell them 4 £24.00 unless you can borrow some,itll save you swearing and some grazed knuckles if you can get some compressors,trust me ive just done mine!!!!
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i may buy some, i was going to get some one else to put the kit on but i thought no instead i will save the money and buy a highlift and maybe compressors to do the job
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do these ones look heavy duty enough
http://www.toolmix.com/browse/product.asp?gid=1331&pid=38467
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Use plenty WD40 over next couple of days on all nuts and bolts, if it's anything like mine was they'll all be siezed up. :wink:
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Soak some rag in diesle & place them over the nut's & bolt's the night before you start, this really will help with the rust,
John.
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You can do it without compressors but its a ball ache
If you can get the chassis up high on axle stands the fronts will fall out and new ones go straight in, without compressors and without ball ache. You have to jack the axles down after releasing the front mounts and turrets so be sure the brake lines/abs leads are long enough to allow this.
To get the front shocks out simply remove the turret mounting ring nuts, undo the lower shock mount and lift the turret, complete with shock straight up and out of the engine comartment. Loads simpler than the procedure shown in the manual.
The rears are the same, just jack the axles down and the whole lot just falls out. Fit new cones/seats shocks, springs and jobs done.
Did mine, on a 4-post ramp mind and with a mate doing the spanners, in 2½ hours . . . . and we stopped for a bacon butty half way through.
Must admit I did spend some time preparing for the job by thorough cleaning of the relevant nuts and bolts and soaking everything for a few days prviously in WD40. Still drove it about though during the preparation time.
Mine had done 140K when I did the job and the nuts/bolts looked as though they hadn't been touched from new - - - never thought it would come apart but it did :wink:
And thanks to all the guys on here for there their advice before I started - good lot these Mud-Clubbers 8)
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Not a good idea to rely on a high lift to jack up to change springs, 1 you need to have somewhere on the car to jack safely and not crush bodywork/bumper etc and 2 they have a nasty habit of slipping out if your not careful
if your doing it on your own invest in some good axle stands and a good hydraulic jack better safe than sorry :wink:
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invest in some good axle stands and a good hydraulic jack better safe than sorry
Too right. Whenever I can I borrow my mates workshop with four poster ramp to do work on mine. A big heavy lump is a Land Rover.
If you get a hydraulic jack, remember to get one big enough to lift under the chasis after you have fitted the 2". You may have trouble getting the axles stands out or the wheels off, sometime in the future, if you don't . . . . . been there and done that :wink:
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I've got some high lift axle stands you could use, but i'm in Brum,
John.
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Not a good idea to rely on a high lift to jack up to change springs, 1 you need to have somewhere on the car to jack safely and not crush bodywork/bumper etc and 2 they have a nasty habit of slipping out if your not careful
if your doing it on your own invest in some good axle stands and a good hydraulic jack better safe than sorry :wink:
Too right, Hi-Lifts can be lethal, don't take the risk. If you're doing it yourself spend the money you saved on a good tall pair of axle stands and spring compressors, they do make life easier. Also get a pair od front turret retaining rings in handy, these often snap. The Paddocks ones are very HD and cheaper than LR ones anyway.
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ive just orderd a farm jack and some spring compressors, i have got some heavy duty axle stands and a couple of hydralic jack so i should be alright
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Also get a pair od front turret retaining rings in handy, these often snap
Found that myself as well RRB. A couple of the studs sheared off big style when removing the nuts. Good job I had spares at hand :wink:
As a point of interest, a guy in our village has his 90 up on stands at the moment in his yard and by the looks of it it is growing a big lift. I Keep having a sly look over the fence when I'm out with the dog.
Just shows it can be done without access to ramps, workshops and fancy tackle . . . . and he's doing it outside in this weather. Fair play to the bloke.
NickW . . . another snip of advice . . . . . 'crack' all the nuts and bolts first to make sure they will come apart. Be a shame to get 3 corners done and then find you can't shift the final one :wink:
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I have changed loads of shocks and i dont think i,ve ever taken the turret off to do it :? mind you i,ve always been doing springs as well. i,ve not had any trouble undoing the top shock mount on the turret so maybe thats why?
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I suppose if you take the spring and damper off together you can leave the turret in place, bit fiddly though, especially for a first-timer. Plus if fitting HD dampers if they are pressurisedit can get a bit tricky, not enough hands :roll:
That said I had to lean on the turrets to get them back on.
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when i bought the kit it came with turrets as well
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which supplier is the kit from if you dont mind me asking?
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i bought the kit form matt H off here it was 2nd hand, the spings are blue and the shocks are pro comp
i was thinking so i could do with some new...
front turret retaining rings
rear shock seats
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You got extended brake lines as well ?
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If you are struggling to get the new springs in undo the body end of the radius arms to give a bit more movement.
On mine the polybushes were stopping enough movement to get everything back. It is a 4" lift though :twisted:
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You got extended brake lines as well ?
not at the moment, i thought you didn't need them for 2", matt said the didn't need them when he had the kit fitted
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with a two inch lift you dont need extended barake lines as long as you dont want the front to articulate that is!
buy them just to be on the safe side, rears will be ok as its in the centre, tested mine by lowering the axle to full drop of the shocks and it was ok, changed it eventually though, just didnt have time when i fitted the kit and wanted to go out and play the next day,
you will defo need them for lower shock mounts/turrets etc.
you dont need spring compressers if you havent got anti roll bras, front prop hits anti roll bar not allowing the axle to drop further enough to put bigger springs in!
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thought you didn't need them for 2"
As Thumbs says you should be ok if you don't go getting silly and putting the front end over the whoopy stuff.
I had mine on a four post lift and dropped the axles right down on the shocks to check the lengths. The standard ones will just about do but swap them out as soon as you can just to be on the safe side.
If the guy you got them from ran ok on standard then you will probably be ok. Me I'd swap them out anyway. Dont forget most of the kits are a slightly different and some will need them and some won't.
Good luck with job - hope it goes well . . . . . . . you'll be getting bigger tyres next then I take it . . . . . seems to go that way once you start lifting :twisted: