Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: timberdog on March 09, 2006, 17:46:02
-
How do you tell on a Lightweight Engine if it is a 3 Bearing or 5??
Any numbers etc?
-
http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/engno.htm
-
Where do you put the oil in the engine, through the top of the rocker cover or into the filler on the side of the block
-
If the oil filler is on top of the rocker cover then it's a 5 bearing motor.
If it stick's out of the side of the motor (drivers side) then it's a 3 bearing.
Im going to have a guess and say your motor is a 5 bearing, and thats with out seeing any pics of it :wink:
-
hobs
oil goes in the top
whats the differance never owned a engine like these :oops:
-
As stratie says, it should be a 5 bearing, unless someone has had a serious mess about with it, which would be doubtful
-
cheers..
Tell ya what it dont half run Quite..unless i am used to the Diesal..
It fired up first time from being dry as a bone in both Tanks i chucked a a capfull of Petrol down the Carb and it jumped into life.. :lol:
Trouble is i have been told that it shold have led content additive in it to run it as i put unleaded in it in desperation to hear it..as you do ..but i only ran it for about 15 secs or so in fear of damage Hobbit is this correct to add additive or have i been told wrong?
I read some on this year 1980 should be ok?
-
Depends if its been modded, I run normal fuel, but no probs yet.
I'm sure there are some people more knowledgeable on this not delat with it too much myself
The lead additive is quite cheap, loads for sale on ebay
-
2 schools of thought on the lead additive, 1 says that you can get away with 1 tank in 4 being 4* (ie lead aded)
other school says that unless you do silly mileage, the unleaded is ok..
as for running it for 15 seconds..not a problem..
funny thing was, i had a 1975 range V8 and was told ONLY to use 4*...as its an ally engine with low compression - i checked and it had the hardened seats fitted as standard..so unleaded it was..best part was it was supposed to be an 'expert' that advised me..never had a problem with unleaded, and 11 years later its still going strog (no longer mine tho;')
-
I would have thought by now 90% of LWT engines would have unleaded heads on them therefore presenting no hassles especially on a later engine.
That said there is no guarentee so if you are unsure use additive, best to be safe than sorry.
Don't suppose the engine is a recon or anything if so it might have a recon badge of who did it, if so call em if not can't help.
-
I was told, if the valve seats had a lot of miles, they should be hard enough to take unleaded. I have run my 2, 1/4 petrol, unconverted on unleaded only for 2 years, and, so far so good. However,........ the decision is yours!!!!!
3 bearing lumps have a web around the bottom of the casting, 5 bearing lumps dont. Chances are, yours is a 5.
Dave
-
Also, the older( series) military engines were recond at 20 k, mines ex mod and its superb,
Dave
-
I ran my 5 bearing lightweight on unleaded for 3 years with out a problem.
-
cheers that helps anyway..i think i may drop in soem Lead additive for what it costs..
-
well the rear crossmember is now on and welded up and the front outriggers new and welded up..
I have now fabricated a Top Rail and it aint perfect but better than a rottern Top rail just got to Drill the holes to take the bolts inside the cab and hey presto new Top rail...sounds easy ...not..
Then i am onto the Bodywork sanding down etc..and then take the hard Top off and swap for the Rag top and hoops of my 88" V6.
All in all i can see daylight a bit now as it was a right state when i got it 8)
-
cheers that helps anyway..i think i may drop in soem Lead additive for what it costs..
If the unleaded is going to knacker the head then its likely to take years (if it ever happens)
Just save the money that you would spend on unleaded and put it towards getting the head reconned if it ever needs it.