Mud-club
Chat & Social => The Bar - General Chat => Topic started by: murph on July 08, 2006, 20:07:40
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Has anyone any ideas where I can get a fuel tank made,,
Is there any reason why I can't use a steel tank in the back of the disco pick up i'm building ???
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Sure ive seen a company advertising in LRO-international mag.
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If your a competent welder, make your own. :)
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Just about any fabrication company can knock you one up out of steel, stainless or aluminium, or you could get a plastic one off the shelf.
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go to any small fab company and they will knock you one up in 2-3hours.
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had a plastic tonk for my boat and it took about 20 liters
and they can be bigger try your local chandlry
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or try a local scrap yard as most merc pickups have plastic tanks ;)
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Cheers folks, I will make my own,,
I wasn't sure if you can make your own and fit them,, I trained as a welder at an oil tank company, we made all sorts but petrol tanks were a different game.
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How old is the Disco? Depending on age you will need connections for the charcoal can (vent scrubber), spalshback (tells the pump your tank is full), sender and pump. Strictly speaking all Type Approval tanks are tested quite thouroughly, some to destruction. Be aware of this when building your own tank.
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How old is the Disco? Depending on age you will need connections for the charcoal can (vent scrubber), spalshback (tells the pump your tank is full), sender and pump. Strictly speaking all Type Approval tanks are tested quite thouroughly, some to destruction. Be aware of this when building your own tank.
on factory fitted equipment, ther are generally made as cheap as possible, but good enough to do the job, hence a lot of testing.
but when making your own equipment, its very easy to over engineer it as the cost of a thicker sheet of steel for instance would be almost negligable.
make sure the tank is stronger then what is accually needed, and have it pressure tested.
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have it pressure tested.
I pressure tested my own by cutting up an old bike innertube and using it to create a bung with a valve in the centre. I then stuck this into the filler hole and bunged up the other holes too. Pump it up to about 10 psi and submerge all the joins in water and check for air escaping. It's not very scientific but it works, and saves paying someone to do it for you.
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have it pressure tested.
I pressure tested my own by cutting up an old bike innertube and using it to create a bung with a valve in the centre. I then stuck this into the filler hole and bunged up the other holes too. Pump it up to about 10 psi and submerge all the joins in water and check for air escaping. It's not very scientific but it works, and saves paying someone to do it for you.
Thats what i did when i made mine for my series. I made it out of 3mm steel and i can just about lift it empty so its slightly over engineered
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I have an old series tank bolted to the floor in the back of my trooper, cost a tenner from a breakers, and another 20 for a sender unit for the fuel guage.
Just used some stud & plenty nuts to bolt it straight into a couple of holes I drilled in the floor.
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Frost and Hayter (Steel) or Bespoke Fabrication (for stainless) on Canvey will accomodate you.
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http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/Outboard-Engine-Accessories/default.htm?S28-
have you thought of using one of these then :lol:
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on factory fitted equipment, ther are generally made as cheap as possible, but good enough to do the job, hence a lot of testing.
Can't really agree with you on that one and I've worked on Fuel tank design and testing within the motor and off-highway industry.