Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: Dr Strangeglove on December 27, 2006, 22:39:08
-
I purchased a 1991 Range Rover Vogue 3.9 SE A (119,000 miles) at the beginning of December and could do with a bit of advice with regards to Do’s, Don’ts and help in a couple of specific areas!
Firstly I have checked the levels under the bonnet and all seem ok apart from the automatic transmission which is showing high (about 2 inches over the full mark). I want to make sure I am checking it under the correct circumstances (do I take it for a run through the gears first etc then check it with the engine ticking over in park?). Say I check it and the level is too high what is the best way to remove fluid – also as I have only just got the vehicle, is overfilling the transmission a way of hiding a problem of some kind? Also which is the correct/best oil to top it up with? The transmission oil temperature light comes on when I am stationary but goes off as soon as I start driving – could this be related?
Secondly, when I take it around corners I can hear tapping sound – this is only when turning so I presume its part of the steering but what are the parts to check and how do I check it.
The next thing is any indication for things I should check for and to make sure I am looking in the right places for potential problems. I want to try to lessen any corrosion as far as I can so a few pointers here would be very helpful. I managed to get it up on a ramp and spent about 3 hours wire brushing and blowing away as much dirt and moisture as possible with a compressed air line. I then spent the next couple of hour’s bladdering the inside of the chassis and sills with waxoyl before spraying them with under-seal. I now want to start looking at the rest of the bodywork as I would rather prevent rust than cure it.
Up to now I have found three small holes on the off-side wheel arch (towards the sill, the seat belt reinforcing patch and the bottom of the rear door pillar) and one to the side of the petrol tank in the rear floor area. It looks like it is in the region of a spot welded bracket of some kind but I don’t know what it’s for! Any suggestions?
I removed the carpet in the front passenger footwell and the foam (under what I presume is a silencing mat) is saturated. The carpet above the mat is not wet though. Has anyone any suggestions as to any likely sources where the water may have come from and what I should look for.
Where are the places I should be looking for rust, what treatment should I use to stop it and what treatment should I use to prevent it?
I know I am asking for a lot of information but after looking at the other topics on the forum and the helpful responses, this looks like the place to ask. Fore anyone that managed to get to the end of this – thanks for your time, and to anyone responding I am very grateful.
-
To check the oil level properly put the gearbox in neutral, start the engine and bring it up to temp then move the gear lever through all the gears up and down and back to neutral
Take the dipstick for the gear box out and check the level with the engine still running
If it needs any oil use Dexron ll ATF (automatic transmission fluid) - if tit is too full then there is a drain plug in the corner of the gear box sump under the car
When you are checking the oil note the colour - it should be nice and red and not dirty - also smell it - if it smells like burnt sugar it's time to change the oil and the filter located in the sump (I would do this anyway if it has no service history and you plan to keep it )
Not a hard job but buy a manual to keep you right (Haynes would do I suppose )
If it more of a click than a tap then it is most likely to be the CV (constant velocity ) joint
Put the car on full lock and drive around very slowly with someone walking beside the car to listen to see what side it is - you may need to do this in both directions
A manual will show you how to change the CV but don't mess about if you are not sure - it should take a garage less than an hour to do for you and the joints ain't dear - but don't go for the cheapest ones on the market if you are keeping the motor
That's my lot for tonight ! :wink:
-
It says on the dipticj check in neutral when cold, but put it in each gear in turn, slowly, the let the valve block fill up.
The clicking sound is a CV, almost ceertainly.
You've found the famous rust-traps, the rear of the sills and the wheelarch, those soggy carpets.
Look for puddles on the maps when you havn't driven it that day, leaky windscreens drop water inside the dash so look for splachmarks on the inside of the cowl under the instruments etc.
Condensation, look for this in the boot too
wet feet, I kid you not
Rust inside the bonnet hinge aperture will lead to wet carpets and it's hard to get in and fix.
Water through the heater assembly
leaking coolant in the matrix
When waxoiling make sure the drain holes are still clear, especially for the sunroof, which should be open periodically and the drains flushed through gently.
-
Thanks for you info guys. You can't beat knowledge from those with experience.
Many thanks
Mick