Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: simon15 on July 17, 2007, 12:31:27
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Right my sills are knackered both sides on my disco and im going to be fitting rock slider/jackcable sills soon.
Do they replace the sills or do the bolt to the sills?
Just dont want to go putting new sills on to find out they need to come off to put the sliders on.
Cheers
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Disco and RRC after market rock sliders bolt on to the existing sills rather than replace them.
The alternative is to relpcae you sills with hefty box section, and extend them into rock sliders, but its not a 5 minuet job. particuarely if like me your doing the footwells at the same time.
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Depends on the type you buy.
Some bolt or weld onto the chassis in some way, some bolt through the existing sills.
Either way, I'd say the starting point is having sills that are in decent nick. For the later type, bolts don't grip too well in rusty lace!
For the former, one of the things your sills do is keep the back body a set distance from the front body... without decent sills, everything starts moving independently making fitting a chassis mounted pair of sliders harder.
Skibum
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I though I was suffering dejavo, and this is why...
http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=34947&highlight=replace+sills
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lol....
The best way seems to be to put in a box section.
Anyone got ideas on sizes to use and a rough measurments etc?
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lol....
The best way seems to be to put in a box section.
Anyone got ideas on sizes to use and a rough measurments etc?
No.... :roll: but I can recomend a good tape measure....!
(http://www.cwpi.biz/images/tape_measure.jpg)
:(biglaugh)::(biglaugh):
:(biglaugh)::(biglaugh):
:(biglaugh)::(biglaugh):
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Frank,
Did the UK go metric some years ago?????? imperail tape!!!!
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Frank,
Did the UK go metric some years ago?????? imperail tape!!!!
:oops: :oops: :oops:
B....y Americans!
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:(biglaugh):
Where do i need to measure? just where the existing sill is at the mo? just add more to the depth so it brings it down lower.
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:(biglaugh):
Where do i need to measure? just where the existing sill is at the mo? just add more to the depth so it brings it down lower.
This is how I'd do it assuming there is enough of a sill left to weld to... otherwise, you'd have to cut back and weld to whatever is left.
Click here for diagram (http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Skibum346/gallery/MiscDiagrams/0/5088d3392e4933f20f5e81bc8f26b314.jpg)
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Web page cannot be found :(bigshock):
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I was told the other day that a piece of 4x2 box fits inside the old sill when you cut away the rust. (metric is 100X50) I don't know the length off hand but would guess its not too difficult to measure the length of the sill. I asked about plating the end on the box, I was told 'Why, you can wash the crap out and it will last longer than the rest of the truck anyway!'
So when mine needs sills(soon) I will be trying this method. Still feel like plating that end thought!
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:(bigangry): :(bigangry): :(bigangry): :(bigangry): :(bigangry):
Darn thing worked last time I did that... it should be pointing at an image in my gallery. Look in the "Misc Diagrams" gallery and it's the second item.
:(bigangry):
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Just fitting the last side on mine.
I'm using 100x50x3 box section, but you can use 120x60 box section. The reason I didn't use 120x60 is because I could only get it in 5mm wall which is a tad too heavy.
You need 1.4m each side. This is from the inner rear wheel arch to the front edge of the bottom of the A pillar, In other words the entire length of the sill.
One piece of kit that is crucial to have is a spot weld drill, this makes removing the old pannels cleanly much much much more easily than with conventiopnal twist drills, why I didn't get one sooner I do not know.
It is not just box section you will need, you will also need some sheet steel to patch up the footwells as inevitably there will be some rust in them, I'm using a combination of 1.6mm and 1.0mm sheets as these are what I have to hand.
You will also need some thicker sheet to replicate body mounts, unless you plan on bending a lot of thinner sheet in layers like the factory did. I used some 3mm for this,again because its what I had to hand.
Other material I've also used includes angle iron, but that was because the near side needed quite an extensive rebuild uf the under floor structure.
As for imperial tape measure, they may well be all metric come the discoveries, but most of a range rover sill is imperial (I enevitably end up using both).
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I fouond it relatively straightforeward to buy inner sills and outer sill repair panels from Paddocks, but these have got more expensive in the last 2 years. Biggest problem is having somewhere dry to do the work, I'v got a garage but it's home to something else.
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Can you fix your link skibum? This is a job I may have to tackle in about 11 months....
EDIT: Nvm, just looked via you're gallery. Didn't understand at first. Lack of sleep...becoming stupid...fatherhood...
Stu.
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http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Range%20Rover%20Blues/gallery/RustyRRR
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see here
http://rdhcorby.piczo.com/
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Great step by step pics there :)
And thats exactly what im after on that link :) just a bit pricey for me at the mo :(
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get a copy of land rover international (may)there is a company that do a replacement sill/rockslider 175.00 or 528.75 fitted according to there advert RDH ENGINEERING 01536 201731.hope this helps. :lol:
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That link above then :) :)
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may seem dear ,but you will never have sill trouble again. :D
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http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Niel/gallery/easter_welding_2005/0/933525-1112089131./Zm9vdHdlbGwvc2lsbA==
Should show the box section and floor repair I did, and yes I did close the ends
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I think Rebel4x4 are doing a jackable sill as well.I know I,ve seen them advertised somewhere.