Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: graham2306 on December 31, 2004, 14:50:24
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My 90 blew the fuse that supplies the indicators, brakelights, fuel guage and temperature gauge on Boxing day. I got home by bunging in the 25 amp from the heater blower and replaced the 10 amp when I got one the next day. Yesterday it blew the 10 amp again and this morning it blew another 10 amp. I hate elctrics, once managed to rewire an MG midget but replacing it all was so much easier than finding the problematic bit! So anyone ant ideas where to start.
I guess I'm looking for a dead short that is intermittent or possibly something else connected to the 10 amp fuse other than what should be, but that will have been connected snce I got the 90 six months ago and these are the first fuse problems I've had.
Any ideas anyone before I put a six inch nail across the fuse box and wait for the fire.
Cheers
Graham
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i had same problem ,kept putting a fuse in and it would blow, traced it to a lead on indicator that had worn through whn i went over abump it would earth itself and blow :wink:
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I had exactly the same problem. Was an unused wire with a bullet connecter on the end that was sometimes touching the underside of the bonnet.
Mind you my wireing is a nightmare. Some cowboy put in a radio and nothing seems to go where it is supposed to. Everything works but god knows how.
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Any idea if you were operating a particular item?
Manky towing socket is always a suspect, especially as both brake lights and indicators are affected. Also as both gauges are affected I wonder if the voltage stabiliser or associated wiring could be at fault.
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Thanks for the ideas guys. I've been away over new year so not looked at it at all. Plan to get the tools out in the week and have a poke around. I have been thinking about it while away and I must admit I was moving towards towing plug.
Cheers
I'll let you know.
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Been over every bit of the loom visible and also cleaned all the mud offf the towing electrics. Found some remains of the military wiring hanging at the back, but not live. Not found any shorts at all. Current fuse has been in for 3 days and is still working.
I HATE ELECTRICSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!
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I HATE ELECTRICSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!
You and me both!!! ](*,) ](*,) [-o< #-o
It'll probably turn out to be a wire that's worn thro the insulation, and only makes contact with earth (and thus blows the fuse) when you go over a bump, turn the steering a particular way or some such irritating intermittent doo-dah.
Best of luck finding it!!
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If 25 amp fuse worked OK it's unlikely to be a dead short (ie. straight to earth) as that should blow any fuse, don't want to be boring but was always taught "never ignore the obvious" and sometimes its paid off, .... is 10amp the correct fuse?....Hope this is helpful, if not it's probably back to tracing wires...........
Cheers
Dave
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had the same kinda prob on a 90 i was prepin for its mot,when u switched the sidelights on everything worked but when u switched them off they stayed on,they would only go off when u removed the aux fuse for the interior light etc,traced it back to the trailer socket
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10 amp is the correct rating according to the diagram on the inside of the fuse box! However as the vehicle has been re-built onto a galvanised chassis before I bought it I can't guarantee it is still wired as original, in fact from the tracing I've done so far I can guarantee it isn't.
Current fuse in the box is a 15amp, as I was working on the fact that if it was a dead short it would blow anything and if it was more items on the fuse than original this would be a reasonable increase without torching the wiring. I'm also working on the principal that as it's guages and bulbs on the fuse they will blow before the wiring bursts into flames.
Thanks for all the help guys and gals.