Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: Jimbo on September 10, 2007, 17:31:33
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Fitted my Safari snork to the 110 yesterday, all seemed to fit ok, and having read on here somewhere about testing it, gave it a try.
I think the post said to run the engine, and put your hand over the snorkel top (without the realt op bit on, just over the sticky up pipe), I did that, all the air pipe work (that runs behind the engine - Td5) moved, the air box moved, but the truck kept running - do I need to rev the engine a bit to get it to suck more air, or should it stall when the snorkel pipe is blocked ?
I thought that I could hear a bit of hissing from somewhere behind the engine, but what with the Td5 clatter and me not being able to lean in any further (as my left hand was on top of the snork !) I couldn't really tell.
My original plan was to silicone all the air pipe joints to seal them good and proper, but I was running short on time and needed to have things bolted on and water tight. Perhaps when I have more time (and before I go wading) I'll pull the whole thing off and seal it up.
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no, it should stall it idle rpm, how ever i test mine at around 900rpm to see if it stalls, id rather spend the extra time sealing than rebuilding :P
u need to remove all he pipe work and seal it
the usual leak place it the intake bit onto the wing that needs removing and the split on the elbow sealing, the water drain bunging up and then siliconing to the wing
basicaly, every joint you can see, split it and seal it
dan
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Dan,
Which intake bit by the wing ?
The snorkel has a moulded plastic pipe that connects to a (supplied in the kit) big thick rubber pipe (approx 10" long), that in turns joins to the existing pipework by a (again supplied) 3" long bit of 2" dia steel tube. Both of these joins have jubilee clips (supplied) on them.
What type of sealant would you advise - bathroom type silicone or something else ?
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do you have a southdown snorkel ?
so the intake pipe of the snorkel goes direct to the air box
itll be the water dump valve on the airbox thats leaking
block it up with something
ive done away with a airbox full stop and got the intake pipe going direct to the turbo so i have no joins to worry about no pressure side
just the pressure side then :roll:
dan
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Nah, got a Safari jobby. I know what you mean about the water drain/dump thing - I'll have a look later.
No airbox - does that mean no airfilter too :shock:
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Jimbo
The Td5 Safari's have the moulded pipe at the wing entry, not sealed against the wing as Dan in describing, one less headache for you :roll:
If you don't have an airbox then you wont have a airfilter! The MAF will get crudded up quickly & cause no end of probs...
Make sure you either move or seal the ECU before you go wading too :wink:
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Jimbo
Make sure you either move or seal the ECU before you go wading too :wink:
Ahh, yes. Was looking at that yesterday, it's gonna be a bit of a beggar to seal (and I'm not paying 300-odd beer tokens for an extension loom !).
I did think along the lines of sealing the whole seatbox - from the underside with seam sealer and lashings of underseal, then more seam sealer on the inside, and then somehow making a watertight lid for the whole thing, to replace/or in addition to, the existing lump of black steel sheet that LR fit !
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I have seen someone put the ECU in a tough plastic box under the seatbox. Cables were feed in through a gland, then the box sealed tight.
It doesn't hurt to seal the seatbox too...make sure you use a good quality sealant like sikkaflex (boatbuilders use it), not cheap B&Q silicone :roll:
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Nah, got a Safari jobby. I know what you mean about the water drain/dump thing - I'll have a look later.
No airbox - does that mean no airfilter too :shock:
K&N Filter on top o the snorkel
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I have seen someone put the ECU in a tough plastic box under the seatbox. Cables were feed in through a gland, then the box sealed tight.
Guess you'd need to vent the sealed box maybe ? - think I read that somewhere too :roll: