Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: jaysastud on November 12, 2007, 14:21:50
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ok,i was drivivg along normally and all of a sudden there was no power and my dico cut out!its a 3.5 v8 any ideas?i have fuel and the leads are all on,i have the rotor arm with the brass pin in the top i was told these are a dodgy batch and they sumtimes short out?could that be my problem?the rotor arm is only about 6 days old! i need help!!!
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Have you checked that you are getting a spark at the plug leads? If you are NOT getting a spark then try just the coil lead, if you get a spark here then the rotor arm could be a likely suspect :D
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Have you tried the fusible links, they are located on the offside inner wing inside an insulated sleeve. The links corrode and all power to the engine etc is lost. I think from memory that you should have about 6 links covering various equipment. You probably have just one or two that have corroded away.
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i dont appear to have any spark at all!any ideas?
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all sorted it was the cheap halfords tat rotor arm that let me down!beware of halfords junk!thanx for the help thogh people!
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all sorted it was the cheap halfords tat rotor arm that let me down!beware of halfords junk!thanx for the help thogh people!
Yet again :roll:
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I ended up on the back of an AA truck last week with this problem!
First ersponder spent an hour chasing the fault.. one minute the spark was there... then it wasn't... Finally seemed to have cleared up so I opted to go for it down the M1... mistake!
I was in the middle lane doing about 60mph... thinking... I don't seem to have the usual power to hand... then suddenly it's coughing & sapluttering again. Then... a "removed before the moderators ask me to remove this adjective" backfire outta my side exit exhaust that lit up the inside lane!
I spent £100 on ingition parts to try and track down the fault... and would you belierve it.. the first thing I try... the rotor arm... cures it! :roll:
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all sorted it was the cheap halfords tat rotor arm that let me down!beware of halfords junk!thanx for the help thogh people!
I had the same problen a while back. Went down the same route as Skibum & hey presto, sorted ! Best £5 we ever spent, eh Frank :wink:
Would've set fire to the motor if it wasn't for Jim Robinson @ JRV8 :D
They're not just sold at Halfrauds m8 :shock:
Nearly all the usual motor factors have been selling them & i heard that someone even got one from their local L/R dealer :lol:
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ok now have more problems!she now runs for around 2 mins then just dies!!what a day!any ideas on this one?maybe dirty fuel filter in tank?any ideas how to get the big plastic ring thingy of the pump top so i can remove the pump to find out??i cant really work out why she runs for 2 mins and then dies?she then wont start till you leave her to sit for around half hour,then 2mins running again and so on and so fourth!i need help befor either a>i set light to my disco or b>set light to myself!!!!
HELP ME PLEASE!!!
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Coil??
Bertie.
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coil seems fine,but as wiv everything never can be 100% unless you have another one to try so tomoro will see what i have around and try replacing it
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auto choke playing up
or is it one of them there electricary sensors :( with an overheating fault
or it could be a dodgy coil with an intermitant fault only showing when hot.
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..sounds like an anti-jacking device on an alarm to me... batteries in fob ok?
i had this on a toad alarm, theory is it gives car thieves 2 mins to get out of your way, then cuts out...leaving them stranded...
although i`m also seeing the temperature connection, gewts up to heat then dies... hmmmm?
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see reply in your first thread..
http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=51723
dont think its fuel, as it would die off when you put it under load, or rev it hard....
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not sure if the heat thing is an issue as it doesnt always allow it to cool right down as in a heated garage,but any way to check the sensors??
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has your new rota arm got a waxy line from the center to the tip if so it has a resister under here yes i know its new but even new things sometimes break ( new cars on the hard sholder) its worth checking. cos as your motor runs the resister builds up a balst charge in it heating the thing up ( on older cars they used to have separate balast resisters in them)