Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: BigSi on November 16, 2007, 18:43:59
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After some recommendations for a pair of cranked rear radius arms, and a pair of 6º castor corrected radius arms. :D :D :D :D
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dont bother with the caster corrected arms unless you need them
cranked rear arms?
run gwyn lewis arms on the back of my 90
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Advised by garage for my 4 Inch Lift!!!!
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hmm, ive thought about cranking my rear arms my self. should be easy with the oxy acetalene just as long as mine arent the flimsey type that break i should be ok
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After some recommendations for a pair of cranked rear radius arms, and a pair of 6º castor corrected radius arms. :D :D :D :D
Redrill your balls, much better than castor corrected arms!
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Advised by garage for my 4 Inch Lift!!!!
does it wander on the road?
whats it like to drive?
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After some recommendations for a pair of cranked rear radius arms, and a pair of 6º castor corrected radius arms. :D :D :D :D
Redrill your balls, much better than castor corrected arms!
ahem, i beg your pardon!
Yes i have often thought about this as it keeps the prop at a better angle too. but how? im assuming they would become slots rather than actual new holes? ive got access to most machinery.
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It doesn’t drive too bad on road, but you do have to tweak the steering a few times!
Redrill your balls, much better than castor corrected arms!
I don’t think there is any thing to drill? The whole arm is bent more on one end, and rotates up ward more on the other (fixes to axle). You could probably get away without them on a 2†lift, but with the 4†lift I don’t want to put any strain on any other parts.
I’ve heard a few reports about welds cracking on the QT ones, just wanted to know what else was out there?
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no on the swivel balls!
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After some recommendations for a pair of cranked rear radius arms, and a pair of 6º castor corrected radius arms. :D :D :D :D
Redrill your balls, much better than castor corrected arms!
ahem, i beg your pardon!
Yes i have often thought about this as it keeps the prop at a better angle too. but how? im assuming they would become slots rather than actual new holes? ive got access to most machinery.
You need to have the original holes welded up after putting an index mark on the flange, mount on a rotary table on a mill and add/subtract the offset required, drill, rotate to next location, drill etc etc...
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ok, got a milling machine (although will probs be better off using the radial arm drill) and an indexer. mine is the type with the un equally spaced holes which will make it a little more complex but doable i should imagine.
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I don’t think there is any thing to drill?
I stand corrected! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Don't drill the swivles, they are safety critical and 2 sets of hole will compremise their strength.
For 6 degrees (that's how much you need for 4 inches lift) try Tomcat Motorsport if they still do them.
QT arms come in 3 and 6 degrees too, or the castor bushes might go that far.
On the back I use Gwenn lewis too. Very H/D, a stock pair of Britpart arms, over-tubed and cranked. Hellishly strong and well made. Might need to fettle the axle bracket for extreme articulation though due to their thickness.
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Does anybody know which QT 6 degree radius arms, will fit a 1986 Land Rover 90 fitted with 1986 Range Rover axles?
http://www.qtservices.co.uk/range.asp?id=60
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Best bet would be to ask Dave Marsh of QT...
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Sent them an email, just wondered if anybody here has done the same thing? :-k :-k :-k :-k
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Probably the 1986 Range Rover arms then, if they are the metric axles then the wider bushes?
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You need the 6degree narrow arms for your truck if you are on the origional axles.
If in doubt measure the front of the radius arms, they will either be wide or narrow (45mm and 40mm respectivly i think)
Ive yet to see any of the arms cracked although i have heard rumours. The design of the arm has changed now and they come powdercoated in a nice gold finish instead of the old style coating.
If in doubt give them a buz and speck to dave or fraiser...
Cheers 8)
:arrow: just re read it, you need the narrow arms for early rangie matey
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Measured the with of the arms the other day, they are about 42mm wide. So would it be the 45mm arms or 38mm ones on the QT webside?
Then again, Liskeard isn't that far from me, so I could always drive there and let them check!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Just my tuppence worth...
If you are going the radius arm route then I would go with arms that have been built for the job rather then bent standard LR items.
I have seen many standard front arms bent in road and off-road accidents without wanting a pair that have already been bent in one or two places as a castor correction solution.
Just what I have observed. :D
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you dont need them! unless you have lifted the vehicle more that 3 /4 inches. the orignal landrover ones are far stronger too, been a fair few reports or QT arms bending and cracking. i have a 3 inch suspension lift on the bob and it handles great. check bearings and load on the swivel.
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you dont need them! .
Sorry, but there is no catagoric way that this statement can be true. :roll:
Smaller lifts have caused problems with vehicles. The only way to determine if your wagon is affected is to fit it and drive it. Also, folk make unilateral statements without considering other potential influences, like how bad the tyres behave, how much other stuff is fitted to the front on the car, how mechanically sympathetic you are, etc etc.
Remember - 'my handling was ok' isn't necessarily the same thing as 'my handling was unaltered'. I've drvien some real cows in my time the owners have been perfectly happy with. :wink:
Cheers
8)
Eeyore