Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: kiteman0 on December 07, 2007, 13:52:16
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HI TO ALL,COULD SOME ONE GIVE ME AN IDIOTS GIUDE TO WIRING A SET OF FRONT SPOTS.IVE SEEN A DIAGRAM BUT DON'T REALLY UNDERSTAND IT, NEVER DONE ANY WIRING ON A VEHICLE BEFORE.CAN I GO STRAIGHT FROM THE SPOTS TO THE MAIN BEAM WIRE ? DO I NEED A RELAY ? DO I NEED A INLINE FUSE ? WHO KNOWS ? HOPEFULLY SOME ONE OUT THERE.CHEERS IN ADVANCE.
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Do a search on the site and look in my gallery and you'll find all you need as its been covered a lot of times.
If you really are that unsure you may be better finding a local memeber and bri<<< asking them to look in exchange for beer :)
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CHEERS FOR THE REPLY,I WILL TAKE A LOOK IN THE GALLERY CHEERS
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NO NEED TO SHOUT FELLA!!!!
We like lower case in here!! :lol: :D
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This might help
(http://www.wizardbilt.com/spotlight%20circuit%201.GIF)
Regards
wizard
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This might help
(http://www.wizardbilt.com/spotlight%20circuit%201.GIF)
Regards
wizard
thanks for that,i've brought a relay,wire,inline fuse,connecters.i'll give it ago tommorrow
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The fun part, in my experience, was wiring the actual lights together. My bar came with four Wipac work lights, each of which were pre-wired. I did consider trying to rewire them but the 27 amp cable wouldn't fit through the holes in the light housing (especially as there'd have been two cables coming in and two going out, to wire them in parallel). In the end I was forced to build a power bus using 27a cable with the live and earth wires from each light spliced in appropriately (all joints soldered - I would never use scotchlocks on something drawing this many amps) and wrapped in copious amounts of insulation tape.
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.....2 words to bring out much confusion...
legal issues
...fogs must only be able to be switched on with sidelights, and mounted less then 1200mm from ground
...spots must only come on with main beam.
this is my understanding of it, and i could well be wrong, no-one wants to say either way what you can and cant have... perhaps this should be a sticky in the modified vehicles section??
anyway, my next lights will be another set of spots on the winch bumper, and two William Anchor ( :wink: ) lights on the back for hunting saxo`s, tailgaters... and for reversing/rear working purposes...
help?
NB the MOT man asked if they were wired up "oh no, they are just for show!"
"...that will do for me" :wink:
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The fun part, in my experience, was wiring the actual lights together. My bar came with four Wipac work lights, each of which were pre-wired. I did consider trying to rewire them but the 27 amp cable wouldn't fit through the holes in the light housing (especially as there'd have been two cables coming in and two going out, to wire them in parallel). In the end I was forced to build a power bus using 27a cable with the live and earth wires from each light spliced in appropriately (all joints soldered - I would never use scotchlocks on something drawing this many amps) and wrapped in copious amounts of insulation tape.
I wonder why you are using "27A" cable? If you are running 55W bulbs then max current is a little over 18A in the real world it is likely to me nearer 16A.
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The fun part, in my experience, was wiring the actual lights together. My bar came with four Wipac work lights, each of which were pre-wired. I did consider trying to rewire them but the 27 amp cable wouldn't fit through the holes in the light housing (especially as there'd have been two cables coming in and two going out, to wire them in parallel). In the end I was forced to build a power bus using 27a cable with the live and earth wires from each light spliced in appropriately (all joints soldered - I would never use scotchlocks on something drawing this many amps) and wrapped in copious amounts of insulation tape.
I wonder why you are using "27A" cable? If you are running 55W bulbs then max current is a little over 18A in the real world it is likely to me nearer 16A.
I just tend to over-engineer these things to be on the safe side! It's not absurdly heavy cable and it gives a good safety margin over the 25A fuse.
Legality - What I have read elsewhere on here is that you are allowed up to six headlights, and as mentioned above spots must only be on with full beam. Mine can't be switched on without full beam so are fine from that angle.
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I wonder why you are using "27A" cable? If you are running 55W bulbs then max current is a little over 18A in the real world it is likely to me nearer 16A.
Why do you say that? Real world figure tend to be fractionally higher due to the fact that alternators run at about 14volt and thus nominal 55w bulbs are actually a bit more powerful than that and draw more current. You can't calculate it cos the resistance of the bulb changes as it gets hotter due to higher current being passed, but there is an effect that way. If you're seeing l;ess its probably due to voltage drop cos you're using cable barely up to the job, always over spec by a decent percentage, and personally always build for the maximum that might be used so build it for 100w bulbs even if planning to us 55w, you may want 100watters in the future and re doing from scratch would be a pain and expensive.
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Tell you what, mount the lamps to your car then bring it over one day with a fistfull of beer tokens and I'll do it for you :wink:
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Tell you what, mount the lamps to your car then bring it over one day with a fistfull of beer tokens and I'll do it for you :wink:
cheers for the offer,i've brought all the gear know.and if it stops raining today i will give it a go.i'm wiring them so that they come on with the main beam i'm also using a spare switch on the dash so they can be turned completely off.thanls for the help.