Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: auf_wiedersehen_pet on December 30, 2007, 16:12:13
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Eventually got round to fitting a set of Scorpion Racing radius arms which were kept when I broke my old RRC.
Got the 2 front and 1 rear bolt loose on each arm but can't see how to remove the arm..........
:oops: The steering bar means it can't drop down.
:oops: The rear surface of the axle means it can't be pulled forward.
I don't particularly want to disassemble the springs/dampers so I can push the axle forward. Am I missing a trick somewhere?
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the rear steering linkage has to be popped off at the balljoint.....then undo both the axle bolts on one side...prise it down and then forward to remove it from the chassis mount
mike
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the rear steering linkage has to be popped off at the balljoint
That sounds simple (Not).
Is it an easy job to do? I've just trawled the archives and can't find any suggestions.
Thx.
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Im confused, front or rear?
the rear should have 3 bolts holding at the chassis end and one bolt through the axle. Simply do 1 at a time and use a lump hammer to knock the radius arm out. Make sure the axel cant move so lowbox in gear and wedge the tyres. You should then be able to manipulate the axle to take the new are reasonably easily.
If its the front undo one track rod end and move the drag link out of the way, this should give you the clearance to remove the front arms.
neither are major jobs just make sure you wrok safe.
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Hi,
It's the front arms I'm doing. I've taken Chuggaman's advice and dropped the steering linkage off. The arms are now in place - packed up for the day as it's going dark. All I need to do tomorrow is "wiggle" the axle until the bolt holes line up, then torque it all up.
Thanks for the advice guys. ;D
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... tip of the day - if doing the rears - as I have been today - use a ratchet strap to pull the axle forward to get it to line up, then use a jack to lift the bar to the right level - careful manipulation of the 2 makes it a doddle to put the bolt though!
As to the front - that is tomorrows job - so watching with interest.....................................
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Tips for tomorrow....
- You need a 30mm DEEP socket (not standard depth) to undo the rear of the front radius arm. £6.49 from Halfrauds.
- The Anti Roll Bar stops you from getting the rear bolt (of the front two) out on the NS. Drop the axle to let the ARB flex and move out of the way.
- The axle guard stopped removal of the front bolt (of the front two) on the OS. I had to remove the guard.
If swapping from standard to castor corrected, the axle will need to be "wiggled". Usual score, jacks, straps, etc.
Good luck.
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lol u can use a rope to pull the axle forward another tip is to loosen the other radius arm as well on the other side, pull it forward and shud pop out make are all the bolt are out and not just loose the truck wont fall over or nething and no need to jack it up either
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........so OK on mine - I can undo all the nuts on the radius arms, and the rear 30mm nut.
.....but I can't get the bolts out of the front bushes, tried lifting and lowering the axle, tried gentle persuasion with a lump hammer, I can get them to turn but they are very tight - what's the secret or do I need to burn them out and use new Polybushes?
Is there an optimum position for the axle to be in (not found it yet)?
Thanks.
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Maybe a bit pedantic but radius arms are on the front. The rear suspension uses trailing arms.
Stu.
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..yep - they are the ones that are stuck, did the trailing (see earlier post) the other day ............
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Is there an optimum position for the axle to be in (not found it yet)?
Thanks.
Not particularly. Mine just tapped out. Possibly try loads of WD40 and leave it to stand.
I have had to take the front anti roll bar off until I can get spacers!
Good luck.
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What can happen is that the bolt is seized to the inner metal of the bush.
It then parts company with the rubber and appears that the bolt spins when in actual fact it is still seized on the bush.
Been there done that and it involved lots of heat. I wasn't too worried about damage to the arm (as new ones were going on anyway)
Putting the arms back on is best done by only putting taking off the front bolts on both arms. This allows the axle to roll to its new position. Don't try to do it with the other old front bolt in.
Strategic use of a trolley jack under the arm helps with pushing it into the right position to get the first front bolt in.
Ed
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... that's what I feared -- and had happened on the rear - that was easy to cut out - so going to soak for a few days in WD40 and then try again.
If not it will be off to the local experts - I don't have the means to burn it out (might take all day with a small blow torch for four).
Thanks.