Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: muddymart on February 02, 2008, 18:47:56
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I was looking on previous posts about the hub tool , and the link on paddocks and difflock tool shop comes up an error, is there any where else i can purchase one?
i dont want one with the bar, i require the 3/4 or 1/2 drive just in case i have to replace the bearings when i change the discs and pads this week,
thanks
Martin
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heres one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-WHEEL-HUB-NUT-52MM-BOX-SPANNER-SOCKET_W0QQitemZ180206268553QQihZ008QQcategoryZ31348QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
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lol LEO i do need one yes anyway... but if ive been told if need to change the bearings i need to torque it up hence the 3/4 1/2 drive tool, if not a standard bar will suffice ..
never give ebay a thought
thanks
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can borrow mine old lad if ya want pm me yer fone no an i'll get back to ya!it's 1/2" drive even got the specs on torques if ya need them
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but if ive been told if need to change the bearings i need to torque it up
Who told you that :-. you set the bearings by endfloat, the easiest way is with feeler guages I find.
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"Who told you that you set the bearings by endfloat, the easiest way is with feeler guages I find."
it's how the manual says to do it...i did it by feel an it's fine!
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you set the bearings by endfloat, the easiest way is with feeler guages I find.
never done bearings before, how would you set them using the above method?
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"Who told you that you set the bearings by endfloat, the easiest way is with feeler guages I find."
it's how the manual says to do it...i did it by feel an it's fine!
Sorry, no punctuation. That should read
"who told you that?
You set the bearings by endfloat....."
I'm simply wondering who told him he needs to torque the bearings up, he doesn't.
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martinwf5...have you got a manual???if not pm me with yer e-mail address an i'll send ya one
rrb...i did it by feel etc, but in the manual it says "torque to x Nm".
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you set the bearings by endfloat, the easiest way is with feeler guages I find.
never done bearings before, how would you set them using the above method?
Ok, assuming you have amnaged to get the bearings changed (if not just ask ;)) then with the hub greased up and back in place you are supposed to set the bearing clearence by checking the endfloat, that is the amount of backlash along the axis of the axle. However if you have fitted new oil seals (you should have) then the lip of the innermost seal will prevent you getting a true reading unless you lever the hub against something.
By far easier is to pop the inner nut on, tighten it finger tight then back off 2 flats. Fit the lock washer and outer nut hand tight, then levering against the lock washer you compress the bearings, you should then see a gap behind the inner bearing which represents the endfloat. Measure that gap with the appropriate feeler guage.
Alternatively do like the rest of us and just back the inner nut off 2 flats then tighten it up and have done. If you can feel the tinyest bit of play with the wheel fatened back on that's great, if it clunks then too loose.
I tried doing mine up then backing off just 90 degrees, you get a really nice sharp brake pedal but the brakes were binding. If you have a bit more endfloat you get slightly more runout on the disk and that pushes the pads clear ;)
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martinwf5...have you got a manual???if not pm me with yer e-mail address an i'll send ya one
rrb...i did it by feel etc, but in the manual it says "torque to x Nm".
I'm going to have to check that :shock:
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hi sorry for some confusion here, but viewing my pdf manual under
54 front axle and final drive:
13: fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 nm
14: Back off adjusting nut 90dg .Tighten to 4nm this will give the required hub endfloat of 0.010mm
15: Fit a new lock washer.
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was just typin that out... :doh:
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lol !!, i'll take the caliper off one day next week and try and play it by feel, its been about 6-7 years since i last did brakes on a rangie, and im sure i just nipped them up and checked for play with the wheel on, if not, i'll do it the haynes way...
thanks
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I was looking on previous posts about the hub tool , and the link on paddocks and difflock tool shop comes up an error, is there any where else i can purchase one?
i dont want one with the bar, i require the 3/4 or 1/2 drive just in case i have to replace the bearings when i change the discs and pads this week,
thanks
Martin
Not all socket sets come with them these days, but I remember looking at one piece in my old man's set as a kid trying to figure out what on earth it was used for... it was a square drive on a bar that could slide up and down. I discovered it's to fit things like hub nut spanners... slide one end into the two holes at the end, then fit a small/bigg/kinooge ratchet handle as required!
In the pic below it's immediatly above the ratchet handle.
(http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/large/04/040211549.jpg)
Skibum
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hi sorry for some confusion here, but viewing my pdf manual under
54 front axle and final drive:
13: fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 nm
14: Back off adjusting nut 90dg .Tighten to 4nm this will give the required hub endfloat of 0.010mm
15: Fit a new lock washer.
Manual for which car BTW?
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I've never used a feeler gauge/ torque wrench to set up wheel bearings in the 7 years i've been running a landrover as my only car.
All i do is use the socket on a breaker bar to pull the inner nut up reasonably tight, to seat the bearings, spinning the hub back and forth a few times, the slacken off, remove breaker bar then re-tighten by had just until you feel a bit of resistance.
you can then whack the lock washer and outer nut on.
I'm sure a dozen people will be on here telling me this is the worst way to do it/ i will burn in hell, etc, but it works for me, and I'll continue to do it this way.
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Discovery pdf manual, under front axle and final drive..
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I've never used a feeler gauge/ torque wrench to set up wheel bearings in the 7 years i've been running a landrover as my only car.
All i do is use the socket on a breaker bar to pull the inner nut up reasonably tight, to seat the bearings, spinning the hub back and forth a few times, the slacken off, remove breaker bar then re-tighten by had just until you feel a bit of resistance.
you can then whack the lock washer and outer nut on.
I'm sure a dozen people will be on here telling me this is the worst way to do it/ i will burn in hell, etc, but it works for me, and I'll continue to do it this way.
That's quite a common technique TBH, it's what you'll find on stuff like Fords and Vauxhalls. Also you tend to find that Haynes manuals use that technique rather than the one in the dealer workshop manual. There's nowt wrong with it except that in doing so you force all the grease ut of the bearings.
Also, the tolerance for wheel bearings has changed a lot since 1970 when the RRC came out, due in part to better compnenets but also to the design of the later axles. The endfloat on an ABS axle hub needs to be less than the endfloat on the CV joint for example.
The spec's given in the maual for the RRC are based on endfloat measured with a DTI, of couorse we all have one of them kicking about :-k and as the endfloat is difficult to "feel" with a new oil seal I prefer to use feeler guages, they also tend to be closer to hand.
At the ned of the day, some endfloat is ok, none is a problem and if the bearings are running preloaded (torqued up) then make sure you carry a spair set ;)
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just done mine last week (nacked wheel bearing) with a 52mm box spanner by feel,no probs whatsoever apart from the rain dripping down my neck "oh I long for a garage"
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If you're rummaging around car boot sales look for a 1 1/4 W socket. It's the same size and fits perfectly.
As per the technique, Haynes definitely states tighten by hand, set the endfloat using a DTI and then tighten to torque (130Nm I think it is). I happen to be able to borrow a DTI and this is the method I use, and I reckon it's the most accurate. The problem comes when you tighten up the locknut - invariably the adjuster moves too and you have to slacken thm all off and start again!! :roll:
Horses for courses though, do whatever works for you!
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hi sorry for some confusion here, but viewing my pdf manual under
54 front axle and final drive:
13: fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 nm
14: Back off adjusting nut 90dg .Tighten to 4nm this will give the required hub endfloat of 0.010mm
15: Fit a new lock washer.
Manual for which car BTW?
Just checked my rave disc for discovery 1 and it does indeed say that.
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If you're rummaging around car boot sales look for a 1 1/4 W socket. It's the same size and fits perfectly.
As per the technique, Haynes definitely states tighten by hand, set the endfloat using a DTI and then tighten to torque (130Nm I think it is). I happen to be able to borrow a DTI and this is the method I use, and I reckon it's the most accurate. The problem comes when you tighten up the locknut - invariably the adjuster moves too and you have to slacken thm all off and start again!! :roll:
Horses for courses though, do whatever works for you!
Is that the torque for the locknut :huh:
You are right about the backlash in the locknuts too, that's why I said I fit both nuts and the washer before I check the endfloat, it doesn't have to be that tight to eliminate the backlash though.
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Something like that. I'll check the haynes when I get home. I think it's 100Nm actually (74lb-ft) wheras the wheelnuts are 130Nm, but it's a fair old whack.
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It would need to be quite tight given how big the nuts are.
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I was looking on previous posts about the hub tool , and the link on paddocks and difflock tool shop comes up an error, is there any where else i can purchase one?
i dont want one with the bar, i require the 3/4 or 1/2 drive just in case i have to replace the bearings when i change the discs and pads this week,
thanks
Martin
Not all socket sets come with them these days, but I remember looking at one piece in my old man's set as a kid trying to figure out what on earth it was used for... it was a square drive on a bar that could slide up and down. I discovered it's to fit things like hub nut spanners... slide one end into the two holes at the end, then fit a small/bigg/kinooge ratchet handle as required!
In the pic below it's immediatly above the ratchet handle.
(http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/large/04/040211549.jpg)
Skibum
It's called a "tommy bar" Frank ;)
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ive never bothered with a torque wrench and i never have a problem,i just use the hub spanner with a long screwdriver stuck through it and just tighten it up