Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: jimthelandyman on August 22, 2008, 19:04:19
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I have lined up the woddruff key on the crank sprocket with the arrow, i have lined up the little pimple on the cam sprocket with the arrow. I have inserted a drill bit through the hole in the injection pump and i can't get it to start. If i turn the crank round 360 again wth the belt on and then take the belt off and spin the injector pump 180 and lock it then it almost starts and smokes anyone know where i a going wrong. also is there anything to line up with the arrow next to the injector pump sprocket?
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The timing marks etc are contained within this thread -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14285 (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14285)
Les.
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I have looked at that and have followed it alrerady. I forgot to mention that also on my bottom pulley there is a mark with tdc written next to it but is a centimetre or so to the left to the woodruff key.
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In that case have you checked to see if the piston is at TDC while the woodruff is aligned?
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How will i know if piston 1 is at tdc because when I line the woodruff key up the timing slot in the flywheel is nowhere near. I can insert the pin in the timing slot in the flywheel when the wodruff key is at about 4 o'clock. I have also checked the pushrods and they are not bent.
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supose you will just have to pull an injector out.
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Good thinking tom my head has come to a grinding halt just can't think, it has to be my motor that has some wierd set up.
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yeah flywheel not quite on right. Although with it having a timing mark i would have thought there would have been a dowel or somthing.
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I'm going to give it a go using the tdc mark on my bottom pulley this time and see if it work. I am so desperate to get my landy backon the road lol.
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I'd suggest you check very carfully where TDC really is, if you get it worng then the pistons will hit the valves. As it is with a coat of soot on the pistons kiss the head.
Just had a thought, bear with me.
The valves are vertical aren't they :-k
Put the engine to where you think is TDC then push one of the valves down 'till it kisses the piston, if you don't remove the valve spring you'll have to find some way of holding the rocker.
Move the crank clockwise until the valve moves down almost completely, so that you can measure it. Mark the crank pulley or flywheel against the static mark.
Spin the engine until the valve tries to lift again vbecause the piston has kissed it, mark this point on the pulley too.
Release the valve and return the engine to TDC. Halfway between the 2 marks you made (above) will be TDC.
Obvioulsy it's not as accurate as removing the head and using a DTI (use that anyway if you have one) but it will confirm or deny the marks you are unsure about, with some accuracy.
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I had a similar problem when I did my cambelt..
In the end I took an injector out
Took the rocker shaft off and set it all up the good old fashioned way with a screwdriver to find TDC.
Took me bloody ages to work out what was wrong as all the marks lined up but the timing was out cos as I rotated the engine the pistons "locked" on the valves :doh:
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Took the rocker shaft off and set it all up the good old fashioned way with a screwdriver to find TDC.
Tell us more :-k
IIRC the flywheel should only go on one way round, one of the bolts is off-pattern. That said I've seen a few engines with TDC in completely the wrong place on the pulley too :doh:, though not LR lumps I'll add.
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Too be honest Andy I couldn't work it out either..
I agree with your thoughts entirely..Only way I suppose I'll ever know whats actually wrong is when I eventually have the gearbox off..
When I did mine all the pins lined up except the flywheel..So I timed it up off everything else and said sod the flywheel.. With no 1 cylinder at TDC the flywheel notch was no-where too be seen.. :-k :-k :-k
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I would rely on the crank woodruff key. This is part of the crankshaft, so can't be adjusted. Perhaps the flywheel is off another engine, such as TD, N/A, or similar (not sure if they fit though), so there's more of a chance that the flywheel timing mark is wrong. Be careful what you do with the timing relationship between the cam and the crank - if you advance the crank - you will clout the valves.
Les
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Spot on with my thoughts Les.
The engine in mine was originally a 2.5TD and I wondered if it had the old flywheel on when the engine change was done :D
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The woodruff key should be at 12 o'clock to set TDC, id go off that.
The TDC mark on the bottom pulley should not be at 12 o'clock to set TDC. The mark on the pulley lines up with a mark on the timing case cover so you can see TDC when everything is back together. The mark lines up at about 11 o'clock if i remember rightly.
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Yep my flywheel is off my old td engine, well just tried it using the tdc mark on the bottom pulley and it almost started and smoked. When i tried it using the woodruff key it didn't work. There is pure biodiesel in my tank and has been sat there for a couple of months now could that affect the starting, i'm thinking of draining it all out and putting some diesel in.
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I know what is up now. When i got my new injector pump it was not locked when it has been removed and therefor it is not set up for injector 1 to fire when i put the timing pin through the pulley. Does anyone know how to set up an injector pump so that it can be locked in the correct position and then i can lock it with the bolt on the side.
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When the pin is inserted through the inj pump sprocket it passes into the casing of the pump. With the pin in, the pump is locked in the timing position and the three outer 10mm head bolts are slackened to remove any slack in the belt between the cam and inj pump. Once the belt is tensioned correctly, the three bolts are tightened. With the woodruff key on the crank at 12 o-clock, the cam sprocket on it's mark, and the pin in the injector pump - the timing should then be factory set.
Les.