Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: mike142sl on October 11, 2008, 16:17:21
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Chabged all the brake pads today without much trouble - had to get a retractor doobery to push the pistons back in though as I couldn't do it with the old block of wood and screwdriver trick!, anyway useful bit of kit to have.
Big problem though - I was unable to get the calipers off so that I could change the front disks. The two bolts were too tight and I couldn't get a suitable purchase on them to loosen them. Plus I only had a ratchet socket so hitting that with a lump hammer wouldn't have done it much good. Does anyone have any tips on how to gett them off?
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I used a 1/2 drive socket with a 2" extention onto an adaptor to a 3/4 drive T bar so I could use a bit of pipe for extra leverage :twisted:without worrying about the ratchet head...
Or try an impact wrench..after giving them a couple of squirts of wd40 over a couple of days...
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they shouldnt be to tight . try loads of wd40 and a wire brush around them b4 short iron bar on the end of a steady bar . just watch u dont shear the heads on the bolts or the fun will start
or invest in a 12v impact driver about a tenner
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The truck in your sig looks like a Td5, I'm not sure if they're the same set up as a 300 Tdi but if they are you need a 12 sided socket, not a standard hexagonal one. Put that on a strong arm/breaker bar (1/2 inch drive) and that should do the trick. You won't easily get an impact driver on the top bolt, the spring, brake pipe etc are in the way but a UJ might just get you round them, I've never tried.
You could always get one of those snazzy right angle impact drivers, but I doubt you'll get one for a tenner :)
Stu.
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Thanks for the suggestions so far. Unfortunately there is no space for extension bars as the wheel arch get in the way. I have a long handle wrench but it is too long to get under the arch.
The impact driver might work but the ones I can find start at around £60 plus battery. An air powered socket gun would do it without a doubt but again a tad expensive just for this, and I don't know anyone with one so it might be down the garage for him to fit.
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I had fun with mine but cracked it in the end - it was easy after that. Unfortunately, I can't remember what the answer was :oops:
An impact driver with a battery? That's not what I'm thinking of as an impact driver... Try one of these. (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16735/Automotive/Mechanics-Tools/Impact-Driver) You hit them with a big hammer; no battery required, and a few quid from your local motor factors.
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I've got one of those, but how do you throw a lump hammer at it whilst it placed on the caliper?. Plus the likelyhood of damaging the caliper is pretty high.
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Have you tried turning the steering to full lock, that may give you the space you need?
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Have you tried turning the steering to full lock, that may give you the space you need?
Good thinking batman - hadn't thought of that somewhat obvious posibility. I'll give it a go.
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Get a breaker bar from Halfrauds, worth every penny and then make sure you use a bi-hexagon socket. The breaker bar bends beyond 9 0degrees so you leaning on the end won't cause it to flip off the bolt heads either, meaning you can lean on it with both hands.
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As already said the Disco 2 uses a different bolt to the 300 its a 12 point 19ml. If you dont use a 12 point socket or spanner you run the risk of chewing up the heads
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i wasnt refering to the cordless impact sockets :oops: they run of the battery and use a wet clutch system to build up the torque thats the ones for a tenner from land rover shows this year
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Nip down the local tyre fitters and bung them a fiver to slacken them off ;)
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did mine with ring spanner and hydraulic jack suplied with car couldnt think of any other way
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Nip down the local tyre fitters and bung them a fiver to slacken them off ;)
:roll: Then it would be "I was going to tighten them up officer.. honestly"
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did mine with ring spanner and hydraulic jack suplied with car couldnt think of any other way
That would work with the bottom one but with the top one I could only get the spanner to sit upright rather than out to one side.
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When I did mine I simply used my 18" breaker bar (from Halfrauds) and the 12pt socket. There is just about enough room to get in there and sort it.
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When I did mine I simply used my 18" breaker bar (from Halfrauds) and the 12pt socket. There is just about enough room to get in there and sort it.
Unfortunately the breaker bar I have doesn't bend beyond 90 degrees.
Can someone explain the difference between a 12pt socket and a 'normal' socket. My trusty old set is probably 'normal' but the 19mm one seemed to fit quite tightly.
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Can someone explain the difference between a 12pt socket and a 'normal' socket. My trusty old set is probably 'normal' but the 19mm one seemed to fit quite tightly.
12 point on the left
(http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/i1091/109196_4lo.jpg)
Sometimes called bi-hex and single-hex.
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When I did mine I simply used my 18" breaker bar (from Halfrauds) and the 12pt socket. There is just about enough room to get in there and sort it.
Unfortunately the breaker bar I have doesn't bend beyond 90 degrees.
Can someone explain the difference between a 12pt socket and a 'normal' socket. My trusty old set is probably 'normal' but the 19mm one seemed to fit quite tightly.
A 12 point socket will work with a standard six sided bolt or nut. However a 12 point bolt or nut will be damaged using a standard socket as the points are small and need the support of the correct socket. Basically, the points get rounded off very easily with a standard socket.
Example images below:
Sockets
(http://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2002/JA02_Which_Should_I_Buy/20020701_Which_Should_I_Buy_page002img002.jpg)
12 Point Bolt
(http://www.boltman.com/images/bolts/Bolt12pointA286.jpg)
Standard Bolt
(http://www.boltman.com/images/bolts/BoltHex5_8310ss.jpg)
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Thanks for that guys, all makes sense now and it would appear that I've been using 12pt sockets all these years thinking they were standard.
:roll:
Still need to see if full lock can give me access.
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OK, all your help and advice has done the job, so it's BIG thanks all around. I have sucessfully changed the discs today - it was incredibly easy when you know how and took just over an hour.
It helped to jack both wheels up so that I could turn the wheel to full lock. Still a bit tight but enough room to get the breaker bar in to loosen the bolts.
The old discs looked like this
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/mike142sl/Disco/OldBrakeDiscs.jpg)
So you can see why I was keen to get them changed. Brakes like is should do now, without any fading. Suprising it braked at all really :-o
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I've just got a new set of discs and pads for my Disco, I was gonna attempt to change them out side the house but I reckon I'll just do them at work on Monday, It'll be much easier to work with the wheels at head height and the air tools.....
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OK, all your help and advice has done the job, so it's BIG thanks all around. I have sucessfully changed the discs today - it was incredibly easy when you know how and took just over an hour.
It helped to jack both wheels up so that I could turn the wheel to full lock. Still a bit tight but enough room to get the breaker bar in to loosen the bolts.
The old discs looked like this
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/mike142sl/Disco/OldBrakeDiscs.jpg)
So you can see why I was keen to get them changed. Brakes like is should do now, without any fading. Suprising it braked at all really :-o
As Hamster once said, I've taxed worse ;)
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Nip down the local tyre fitters and bung them a fiver to slacken them off
Then it would be "I was going to tighten them up officer.. honestly"
Didn't mean leave'em loose :shock:
:lol: :lol:
glad you got it sorted ;)