Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: R2D2 on October 23, 2008, 19:00:54
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Hello me again,
I heard somewhere that to fit Rangie or Disco alloys onto the defender axle there is some modification to do. :undecided:
Having just bought some, (the black/silver star pattern, think them is from a Disco ES) :dance: need to know what to attack with the grinder? 8-[ 8-[
They start to locate on studs but then go tight and show signs of snagging on the inside of rims just below each stud .
Now if I pull them on, with the nuts, will this put too much strain on the alloy( wanna be safe out there) :-k :-k
Thanks
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I'm not sure the studs are ok for alloy wheels either, but IIRC it's the edge of the hub flange and/or the bolts heads for the halfshaft.
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Hello mate,
A friend of mine had to ream out the holes in the wheels by 1.5 mm.
(he fitted disco 1 alloys to a early RRC)
So you may have to do the same.
This stopped the wheels "snagging" on the studs.
Also make sure you have the correct wheel nuts.
Cheers,
Ron.
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hi. it is the half shaft end which the alloy wheel will be snagging on. if you pop the centre cap out of the alloy and then fit it to the hub you will find that when tightened there will still be a gap between the hub surface and the back of the alloy. on classic R/R and discovery the halfshaft end is domed and the bolts sit flush into it. on the 90/110 axles the halfshaft end bolts don't sit flush and have a larger head. i've just been out to compare them and have also found that the halfshaft end is thicker on the 90.
hope this helps and doesn't seem like waffle.
charlie.
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Thanks for the replies folks,
I'm a bit too old and wise to weaken the wheels by grinding or overstressing them on the wrong studs, so I think I'll source a similarly aged axle and swap that to put my mind at rest.
Thanks
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If it's easier I think you can swap the swivels over rather than take the whole axle off.
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i have done the same on my old 90 i used a 200 tdi disco axle stubs as they are 7 stud as the rangie axle stubs i had was only 6 studs
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Early RRC had 6 bolt swivles, they wre later 7 bolt to make them stronger.
Also , I understand that Defenders might have stronger swivel bearings :-k than RRC/Disco
So a mix 'n' match axle would be RRC driveshafts, Defender swivles and RRC casing/rad arms or Defender casing/rad arms.
Spanners at the ready folks ;)
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i was lead to believ 110 cvs where stronger then 90 ones as there where just the same as rrc an disco an also 110 had bigger disc an calipers
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110s and 130s have the vented sisks like the RRC, but the calliper is bigger. I don't know about the CVs but the later ABS axled RRC/Disco are stronger thanthe non-ABS axles, internally they are built the same as Defender with Railko bushes and no support bearing for the halfshaft in the back of the swivel ball. The CV and outwer driveshaft are the same part which is why they are stronger.
That said ealry RRC had a bigger CV joint too, I'm told.
The 200 TDi Defendr CVs are about the strongest standard CV, but you can't fit alloys straight over the top of them as they stick out too far.
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Hi folks,
Only just noticed that there are more answers to my original topic :oops: thanks muchly.
RRB is the method of changing swivels a change I could do on a one side at a time basis as I am in possesion of a 93 Disco to break. As my V8 is a 1986 would the axle swap be easier? The plan is to still have a movable Disco so I would have to change swivels etc four times to facilitate (ooerr) this, bearing in mind this has to be done in an uneven grass garden with no hoist set-up :( as such only jacks and axle stands :doh: I wish I lived near Sheffield. :lol:
Cheers
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AFAIK the 7 bolt swivles all bolt to the same pattern, only early pre EFi RRC had 6 bolt swivles (maybe early one-tens :-k) so yes you could do one side at a time, as long as they are 10 spline (or all 24 spline) then the halfshafts/axles etc were all the same length AFAIK.