Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: flash42 on October 30, 2008, 17:50:55
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fitted my snorkel about a month ago, and the bloody thing stil aint fully watertight, and really want it ready for some wading.
whats the best way to locate the air leak?
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Put your hand over the top, it should stall the engine or close to stall it, then listen for any air rushing noises, theres your leak :grin:
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bit of a two man job then :)
looks like i have a project for tomorrow :)
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I put a carrier bag over top of snork and listen for noise as engine should stall, have been told that this can make pipes collapse, but can't see how else to test?
Andy
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the way i do it is to spray some easy start around all joints with engine running if the revs pick up you got a leak
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took out as much of the air intake system as i could, and sealed it up with silicone.
but the engine still wont cut out.
covered the snorkel top and listened for leaks, and it sounds like its comin from the plastic piece that attaches directly to the wing. its such a mission to get off and on again :(, anyone know of the best way of going about it?
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Magazine over the snorkel intake is best if it's flat faced - plastic bag may get sucked in or shredded. Hand is not a good idea, not after the first time anyway!
Bear in mind that by blocking the snorkel intake, you are forcing the engine to collapse the pipes, which at joints will un-seal perfectly good seals. At normal atmospheric pressure they may be perfectly good.
I sealed my old 200tdi as best I could and it still wouldn't stall. Then I accidentally drove it fully underwater (waterline half way up the windscreen) for several minutes, so the engine was running totally immersed for quite a while. Didn't skip a beat, so the seals must have been just fine, even though they leaked under suction.
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took out as much of the air intake system as i could, and sealed it up with silicone.
but the engine still wont cut out.
covered the snorkel top and listened for leaks, and it sounds like its comin from the plastic piece that attaches directly to the wing. its such a mission to get off and on again :(, anyone know of the best way of going about it?
A good quality sealant such as Tiger seal mate.
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removed the pipe that connects to the vent cover, and covered with a magazine, engine promptly stalled.
so its definately the joint between these two sections.
been recomended a product called "sticks like ****" so will have to go and get some tomorrow, the joint is just to losse to be done with normal silicone sealent.
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Magazine over the snorkel intake is best if it's flat faced - plastic bag may get sucked in or shredded. Hand is not a good idea, not after the first time anyway!
Bear in mind that by blocking the snorkel intake, you are forcing the engine to collapse the pipes, which at joints will un-seal perfectly good seals. At normal atmospheric pressure they may be perfectly good.
I sealed my old 200tdi as best I could and it still wouldn't stall. Then I accidentally drove it fully underwater (waterline half way up the windscreen) for several minutes, so the engine was running totally immersed for quite a while. Didn't skip a beat, so the seals must have been just fine, even though they leaked under suction.
I'll second that...I was there :shock:
Use Sikkaflex silicone adhesive...sticks very well.
Of course you could use a snorkel like the Southdown (http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk/RaisedAirIntake.htm) product, not far from you at Zeal Monochrome, that does away with the crappy plastic wing moulding
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never realised that southdown was so close to me.
if i hadnt already bought and fitted the snorkel, i would invest in a southdown one.
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would it be frowned upon if u duck taped the joint up :) :twisted:
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if you remove the plastic wheel arch you can get your hand up under the wing to seal it all up there is a push in joint whith a rubber dump valve i bet its that thats what it was whith mine anyway. also check the dump valve on the bottem of the air filter box