Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: hrox on March 11, 2009, 19:41:01
-
Hey Guys, driving to work down the motorway this morning and the dash lit up like a xmas tree. pulled over to find my serpintine belt intact but loose. closer inspection revealed that the tensioner pully housing bolt had sheered off. after collecting the pully and housing from up the motorway I managed to get to the office a few miles away but obvisouly heating with electric fan and not alternator was an issue. Heres my problem. half the bolt is still stuck in the engine from where it sheered off and I dont know when i will have the funds to get this fixed. Can i in true landy style, get a shorter belt to put round the crank, water pump and alt and use the alt as a tensioner for now until i can get this fixed properly?? below are pics i took this morning.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3633/3345612683_1e5f490a3d.jpg?v=0)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3346445902_c526d1dee6.jpg?v=0)
Thx in advance
-
try useing a good set of bolt extractors should do it
-
If you are desperate to save money you may be able to fix the old tentioner with a new bolt, after getting the old bits out. A new tenioner will set you back £40 so im not sure id bother fixing it.
-
This happened to me.
I managed to get by for a couple of days with one of these emergency belts just to cover the waterpump and alternator. Was pretty hard on the arms though without PAS!
It's not the easiest thing to get the old one out, but I managed it with a simple right angled dremel and a good screwdriver.
I used the drill in the dremel to drill a hole about 3mm deep in the centre of the stud, and then one either side of it. I then used a milling bit and joined the holes together.
Then a decent straight screwdriver and a fair bit of force and turned it out.
A new stud is a couple of quid and bobs your uncle! :)
Mine managed to wipe out my viscous fan when it went bang so that came off too.
-
Wow what a horrible failure.
My old engine had the thread in the alloy stripped for that stud. Nothing like that sinking feeling when torquing up the nut and it staying slack as stud pulls out. Ended up changing the whole front aux ladder frame as I had a spare one. That engine had stripped threads all over, alternator mount, rocker shaft pillars, inlet manifold. Heli coiled a few. At the time would have loved to met the ham fisted spanner monkey that trashed the threads :evil:
-
Don't fit a new tensioner, both the ones I've bought were **** and caused no end of problems. The bearing indside the wheel can be pulled out and replaced, failing that take the wheel off the new arm and fit it to the old one.
-
Jamie if you have problems give us a ring mate ........... maybe before you start!!!
-
same think happened to mine in December... I was busy with work so got Gigglepin 4x4 to fix it.
I think Jim cut a groove in it and wound it out with a screwdriver, but it pulled out a lot of the thread from the housing with it.
They replaced the thread with some sort of Helicoil (but better than Helicoil) and its fine now.
Don't know how much it cost as they did the timing belt aswell on the same visit.
You can replace the bearing in the centre of the pulley (less than a fiver from Ebay) but the circlips are a sod to get out.
They also wear at the point that the pivot, there is a nylon bush between the two metal parts, which can wear and put the pulley slightly out of alignment, this will cause it to squeak.
-
well had a look at it today. put a drill on it and nothing happened. my luck im thinking its seized.... so with that in mine whats it attached to that may need to be replaced. this is way bigger than me and the rads going to need to be removed but the state of the thermo housing bleed valve means i going to need a new housing should the water be drained off :( damm this is getting expencive....
Anyone got a trailer in the portsmouth / southampton area i could borrow for a bit please...... :cry:
-
Get a thick washer with a hole just smaller than the broken bolt, put it over the bolt, using a mig turned up quite high and not to much wire speed, weld through the hole concentrating on the bolt, then pool it into the washer, you can then weld a nut to the washer and unscrew it, the heat will help free it off.
-
thx banjo, sadly that way past anything i am prepared to attempt. Give me a computer not problem. give me a welder...... :shocked:
-
If you do need to go down route of a new auxiliary ladder frame (think that what they called?) maybe worth looking for a seized engine or otherwise dead engine (there should be plenty of nuked 300tdi's) to get one off instead of forking out for a brand new one.
Mind you, getting you old one off and taking it down your local friendly engineers outfit would probably make short work of getting that stud out once it on the bench.