Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: Axetamer on May 13, 2009, 18:00:09
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I've just tried to start my truck today to roll it out and change the disks for the MOT, now it refuses to start, I have fuel to the injectors when the unions are undone, it turns over but refuses to fire, it was running fine when I parked it less than 36 hours ago, has had a recent lift pump about 100 miles ago,
any ideas?
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Take the oil filler cap off, watch the rockers while someone else turns the key. If they are not moving, the timing belt (cambelt) has snapped.
The fact you have fuel at the injectors rules out the fuel stop solenoid or the injector / lift pump.
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The rockers all move ok when cranking, I did the cambelt about 500 miles ago, the feed pipe from the lift pump jets out fuel when cranked too...I'm baffled
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I had the same problem a few weeks back. It ran fine the last time I used it then just would not start.
I got a mate to tow it and I bump started it. Its running fine now and starts first go every time.
Not sure why it would not go but all sorted now.
I put it down to a fuel filter blocked and not letting the correct volume of fuel through ?
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Right, took the rocker cover off completely and disaster...number 8 rocker arm has broken, pushrods are bent indicating the either the cambelt has jumped teeth, ( which I doubt) or my suspicion is that the arm off the old lift pump has finally revealed its location, I couldn't find it when I changed it despite fishing around with a flexi magnet in the lift pump aperture and even having the sump off...so what now? a secondhand motor or pull this one for a strip and complete rebuild...***k*n B****cks
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Been thinking about this, I reckon that the mysterious missing lift pump arm has picked up between the camshaft and the cam followers, causing the broken rocker arm and bent pushrods on 7 and 8. I'm gonna whip the engine apart tomorrow in situ ( weather dependant), and see if my theory is right. So its rad out, head off, vac pump and skew gear out along with the timing belt cover and odds and sods, pull followers and camshaft ...& whatever....see what damage has been done.............I'm also thinking pull the whole motor and recon..peace of mind...assuming a full recon( worst case senario) pistons, rings, all bearings, valves, pushrods, camshaft, skew gears, oilpump, seals etc, with no regrind/boring... with standard parts £350ish?
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If you're dropping the camshaft out you'll need to separate the engine from the gearbox as the ladderframe bolts into the gearbox bellhousing - only way to remove it to get to the camshaft is to split the two :roll:
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If you're dropping the camshaft out you'll need to separate the engine from the gearbox as the ladderframe bolts into the gearbox bellhousing - only way to remove it to get to the camshaft is to split the two :roll:
Wouldn't that be the Crankshaft? Surly the camshaft is up top and drawn though the timing case from the front?
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If you're dropping the camshaft out you'll need to separate the engine from the gearbox as the ladderframe bolts into the gearbox bellhousing - only way to remove it to get to the camshaft is to split the two :roll:
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Crankshaft :doh:
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Been thinking about this, I reckon that the mysterious missing lift pump arm has picked up between the camshaft and the cam followers, causing the broken rocker arm and bent pushrods on 7 and 8. I'm gonna whip the engine apart tomorrow in situ ( weather dependant), and see if my theory is right. So its rad out, head off, vac pump and skew gear out along with the timing belt cover and odds and sods, pull followers and camshaft ...& whatever....see what damage has been done.............I'm also thinking pull the whole motor and recon..peace of mind...assuming a full recon( worst case senario) pistons, rings, all bearings, valves, pushrods, camshaft, skew gears, oilpump, seals etc, with no regrind/boring... with standard parts £350ish?
I am not an engine mechanic but have stripped a couple tdi's, I can easily imagine that the missing lift pump arm briefly locked the cam which cause the timing belt to jump, break or loose teeth and you get the classic bent rods/broken rockers. Is it possible that damage could just be restricted to replacing the bent rods and rocker, new timing belt, timing reset and retrieval of the loose arm. Cam/bearings,belt, bent rocker shaft, rocker shaft pillar mounts fixings may need close inspection. Would be interested in a professional opinion posted on this thread though.
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It was early and I hadn't had much tea by that time :oops: :lol:
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Thats a good possibly Saffy, I was just saying that same thing to the missus, I've drained the coolant and will pull the timing cover off tomorrow and check the timing...I had to hose the driveway down tonight as I got antifreeze everywhere and underneath is too wet to lie in. Finding the arm is gonna be a ballache, It'll be sump off again if I can't find it I will have to pull the motor out, can't risk it happening again.
Has anybody a engine hoist I could borrow if necessary?
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Been thinking about this, I reckon that the mysterious missing lift pump arm has picked up between the camshaft and the cam followers, causing the broken rocker arm and bent pushrods on 7 and 8. I'm gonna whip the engine apart tomorrow in situ ( weather dependant), and see if my theory is right. So its rad out, head off, vac pump and skew gear out along with the timing belt cover and odds and sods, pull followers and camshaft ...& whatever....see what damage has been done.............I'm also thinking pull the whole motor and recon..peace of mind...assuming a full recon( worst case senario) pistons, rings, all bearings, valves, pushrods, camshaft, skew gears, oilpump, seals etc, with no regrind/boring... with standard parts £350ish?
I am not an engine mechanic but have stripped a couple tdi's, I can easily imagine that the missing lift pump arm briefly locked the cam which cause the timing belt to jump, break or loose teeth and you get the classic bent rods/broken rockers. Is it possible that damage could just be restricted to replacing the bent rods and rocker, new timing belt, timing reset and retrieval of the loose arm. Cam/bearings,belt, bent rocker shaft, rocker shaft pillar mounts fixings may need close inspection. Would be interested in a professional opinion posted on this thread though.
Its rare for a timing belt snapping on a TDi to do any more damage except bend the pushrods and snap a rocker or two. I would think that in this case it would be similar to the belt snapping. Time it up again, replace the pushrods, and the snapped rockers, adjust the tappets, and then refit the timing belt. Start the engine for a SHORT PERIOD OF TIME (there won't be any cooling on the engine), and just check it sounds right. The engine will be to run for a short period of time (30 seconds or so) with no cooling, just to check it runs fne and there are no horrible noises.
Then replace the timing belt cover and all the other gubbins.
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I think the problem may be obvious here, seems that crap has gone down the tensioner bolt and seized the tensioner solid, the belt was as slack as a whores dodah. I think that some additional rtf around the tensioner bolt may stop it happening again when rebuilt....still haven't found the arm
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I think the problem may be obvious here, seems that crap has gone down the tensioner bolt and seized the tensioner solid, the belt was as slack as a whores dodah. I think that some additional rtf around the tensioner bolt may stop it happening again when rebuilt....still haven't found the arm
YUCK! good advert for using wading plugs as any, plus one marked up for the camp that says always change the tensioner/idlers when doing the belt change (i.e full timing kit). You say you changed belt 500 miles ago and it looks like that [-X Might be good news for your engine anyway.
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I have wading plugs in and the tensioner and seal was changed when the belt was done, I think it's came from the back down the bolt
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Right, took the rocker cover off completely and disaster...number 8 rocker arm has broken, pushrods are bent indicating the either the cambelt has jumped teeth, ( which I doubt) or my suspicion is that the arm off the old lift pump has finally revealed its location, I couldn't find it when I changed it despite fishing around with a flexi magnet in the lift pump aperture and even having the sump off...so what now? a secondhand motor or pull this one for a strip and complete rebuild...***k*n B****cks
most common time for jumped teeth on timing belts is on start-up