Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: hrh_dave on May 16, 2009, 20:40:04
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Has anyone repaired the box section between rear doors and the 2nd row seats, Im needing some pics to see how other people have done it...
Cheers in advance
Dave
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Has anyone repaired the box section between rear doors and the 2nd row seats, Im needing some pics to see how other people have done it...
Cheers in advance
Dave
The bolt on "U" cross member PART no NRC4171? Need to do that on mine and have been delaying until my neighbour does his :-$ Out of the whole chassis it is that one bolt on member that is rusty, the rest or the rails are pretty much as it left the factory in terms of lack of corrosion. I have patched mine when I got truck and it good enough for MOT so far. My neighbours is non-existent to the point they might not even notice anything wrong in an MOT, it simple isn't there anymore.
Rumour has it you supposed to raise the body off the chassis - crazy talk :D also hear told of cutting the member into 2 or 3 pieces and welding or even bolting back up once fitted - an option :-k I think I would investigate de-riveting (cutting?) the triangle side panel that is there rear of the 2nd row doors, and using that as the excess to removing and sliding in a new member in one piece. Or in a more full description of that method.....
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&showtopic=41242&view=findpost&p=391187
These X members are not that hard to do. You don't have to cut them in half, or remove any of the floor.
The problem is they're very tight to fit, and Land Rover build tolerances mean some will be easier than others.
1. Remove the sill panels and the panels between the rear doors and the wheel arch.
You only need to remove one side to fit, but doing both sides aids removal.
2. Remove all the mounting bolts and cut the old X member up in situ, then remove. The bolts that hold it to the chassis are inserted from the top and the front ones wont come out, just cut the heads off and let them drop out.
3. take the new X member and drill 2x8.5mm holes through each of the L shape mountings, mark them L&R, then grind out the welds and remove them. This will allow you to refit them with m8 bolts back into their original positions once the X Member is in place. Clean up where you ground the welds out and give everything a good coat of paint.
4. It's easier to Insert the X Member from the nearside because It has to go under the fuel pipes on the offside.
This is when it all gets tight, it will fit but don't be afraid to lever it about or give it a hand with a block of wood and a hammer.
5. Once in place, fit new bolts to hold it to the chassis. The front ones will need to come up from underneath so check the length as otherwise the ends will foul the floor when tightened.
6. refit both L brackets with m8 bolts and nylocs and refit the bolts through the heel board into the brackets. You may need to shim the gap between the brackets and the heel board. 305232 is the pt' no' for the genuine shim, or make your own from some ally.
7. Finally refit the panels/sills.
I've done plenty like this, yes it's a pig, but I think it's less work than chopping the the thing in half.
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Saffy....
I think you have the wrong bit in mind... I have taken some pics...
Cheers
Dave
(http://www.mud-club.com/galleries/galleryimages/1242590289-8997-17-05-09%20005.jpg)
(http://www.mud-club.com/galleries/galleryimages/1242590237-8509-17-05-09%20002.jpg)
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:oops: yep sorry no help there.
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No worries... thanks anyway,
Dave
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i replaced my cross member with similar size steel box section and fabricated a joint in the middle a bit fiddly to fit but it been ok for at least 10 years. the box section was a bit thicker than the genuine cross member and a lot cheaper.
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Been hunting about but seem to have lost the piccys of how I replaced that bit. :?
You need to take off the ally panel on the outside to see it all. There is a box member running from the door cill up at about 45 degrees to the door post. I cut two sections of angle to the right length, welded the bottom angle to the door post remains and ran it down to the cill piece and welded it on there. Then stitch welded the other angle section to that to make a replacement box. A couple of holes in it a load of waxoyl shouldn't see that needing doing again. Then refix the outer panel with a few pop rivets job done.
Does that make sense ?
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Well Chris, i know who i wanna come visit when the mot needs doing on me 110! lol
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Cheers Chris... Thats what I thought.. I just wanted to make sure.... and on another point, does anyone know it the rear seat belts will fit the front as I was going to remove the seats and swop over one of the belts as the drivers side has the usual door damage.....
cheers
Dave
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Saffy....
I think you have the wrong bit in mind... I have taken some pics...
Cheers
Dave
(http://www.mud-club.com/galleries/galleryimages/1242590289-8997-17-05-09%20005.jpg)
(http://www.mud-club.com/galleries/galleryimages/1242590237-8509-17-05-09%20002.jpg)
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Yes, 41x41 Unistrut is the perfect size:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2058/1523209489_4d97dbf684_b.jpg
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How did you get on with this?
Got the same problem myself and with the MOT coming up in a week I'm not sure if it's a failure or not :shock:
http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php/topic,73913.0.html
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Not got it in for an MOT yet... but got the welding done... I will post some pics once its stopped raining.... Its not the nicest job in the world but not bad considering I've not picked up a stick welder in 9 years....
On another point... my door bottoms are away.... is that a pass or fail on the MOT thing....
Dave
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On the doors just put some duck tape over any sharp edges and they will pass