Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: kai on July 27, 2009, 10:32:40
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As the title suggests.
I keep getting stones and bits of crud inbetween the rim and the tyre which cause the tyre to deflat. It was recommended to me to have inner tubes fitted, did that and I now keep damaging the valve on the tube causing the tyre to go flat and no way of repairing it. I'm regretting fitting the inner tubes now and would much prefur to run with out the tubes. Is it best to glue the tyre on with a proper sealer or am I using the wrong type of vavle on the inner tube.
I'm running 30.5x 10.5x15, Im not 100% sure on this size by the way.
How can I stop this from happening.
Many thanks.
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The best way is to get your self a set of bead lockers! or if you don't want to spend that sort of money, when you get your tubes taken out, use some tyre sealer round the rim. that might work.
Cheers,
Nick
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If you have steel rims, weld a bit of steel over the valve stopping it ripping out in the sticky stuff:
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What pressure are you running at?
If suitably inflated then getting crud between the bead and rim should be a problem, I've been running 33x10.50-15 tyres tubeless at around 20 PSI off road without a problem. If you are airing down tyres to very low pressures then bead locks will be inevitable to stop the bead moving on the rim.
When you say valve damage, is this from the tube slipping with the tyre on the rim, causing the valve to be ripped off?
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What pressure are you running at?
If suitably inflated then getting crud between the bead and rim should be a problem, I've been running 33x10.50-15 tyres tubeless at around 20 PSI off road without a problem. If you are airing down tyres to very low pressures then bead locks will be inevitable to stop the bead moving on the rim.
When you say valve damage, is this from the tube slipping with the tyre on the rim, causing the valve to be ripped off?
I stopped at the garage before going to the site and inflated them to 32PSI all round. I saw on an army 110 that they had stickers indicating the tyre should be at 36PSI at the front and 60PSI at the rear. My mate was a somewhat deterred at running 60PSI as the tyre wall is starting to perish and has a couple of cracks around the walls so we settled on 32PSI. We’re running eight spoke steel modular’s (I think) with general grabber AT’s.
I would have thought at 32PSI we would have been ok but stones were getting wedged in between the rim and the tyre bead.
Inner tubes-
I was running tube less rims which have had the valve hole drilled out to increase the diameter of the hole to take the valve of the inner tube. I’m certain the problem is the valve is catching on the hole of the rim were (as suggested) the tube and tyre are moving around the wheel and tearing away. Also I think the tubes are too small for the size of tyre I’m running. Hence why I’m looking for an alternative solution to running tubes. It’s probably the case that the garage that I asked to do the conversion are doing a poor job for the conversion but there argument is that the wheels are not designed for running the inner tubes. I’m disappointed with the outcome but they are correct in what they are saying regardless.
Can anyone give me some more information regarding these bead lockers? Interested in knowing what’s involved with them and were to get them from and of course ££££££££???
I think they look cool and look like they could will solve our problem.
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I wouldn't compare tyre pressures of a discovery to a military 110 which are inteded for carrying much heavier loads. IIRC standard pressures for a discovery are 26 PSI front and 36 PSI rear. Unless you have added a lot of weight to the vehicle then nearly doubleing the tyre pressure would adversly affect the handling and tyre wear.
I would have though 32 PSI would be enough to limit dirt getting between the bead and rim or prevent the bead slipping on the rim. If the tube is too small then thay won't help. I take it you throughly cleaned the dirt out after each time the tyre deflated. What condition are the rims and tyres in?
There are a few types of bead locks. Some are propably not road legal.
The cheapest option is to sandwinch the tyre bead on one side between 2 rings of steel bolted together. You can get weld on kits for this to conver existing wheels as well as wheels with them ready fitted, for example http://www.offroad-armory.com/beadlock.html
These are the most questionalble about use on the road and often advertised as "for off road use only".
Another option is pneumatic bead locks, which have a special inner tube which just pushes against the tyres bead. The wheel has 2 valves, one to inflate the special tube and another to inflate the rest of the tyre. These are more expensive and can be tricky to fit. For example http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p406c121/0/staun-internal-beadlock-16-inch-7/9.html
Another option is to use a split rim double bead lock wheels which use a solid insert between the tyres beads to allow the split rim to snadwich the beads when bolted together. These are an expensive option, but have the advantage of mechanically locking both beads and made to order split rim double bead lock wheels tend to be very strong and robust. For example http://www.stazworks.com/rims.htm
There are people in the UK with contacts for aquring Stazworks from the states at a reasonable price, though they are still a few hundred pounds per wheel. I haven't seen a recent figure but around £300 each springs to mind.
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I had the same problem when the Disco had RR 3 spoke alloys on. I replaced them with disco steel rims and that was the end of any flat tyres when playing in the mud.
wizard
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Just to say that fitting tubes into tubeless tyres is really not a good idea.
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Wow who, looking like I have sorted this now.
Went to see the kind people over at Safari engineering over in Eversly. A gent named David kindly pointed out that what I had attempted was ok however I had a little further to go with it. So..... I brought some new innertubes with a smaller valve and a small insert to go inside the valve hole which is acting like a gommet/shim. That is stopping the valve from catching or rubbing on the metal valve hole. So fitted these and have been green laning all day around Hindhead today and it's still inflatted :lol: