Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: dawdler on April 02, 2005, 20:59:49
-
Me fan is a bit, erm, nadgered so I fink its time to remove it
got the spanners out today,
could not remove the darn thing so.............
how do you guys go it?
all i got was the fan moving in time with the spanner
elp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-
You need to give it a good sharp smack to get it off.
Normal pressure will just turn the fan / pulley.
-
is it right or left hand thread? i think mines on its way out as sometimes it seems to just be idling round when the cars hot, i managed to fit a pair of electric fans today but have not removed the viscous item yet
-
Left hand I think. :?
-
it unscrews clockwise :wink:
-
Definitely left hand thread and like Paul says, it needs special tool #1 (tap with a hammer).
You'll find quite often they don't seem to be working hard at idle, they arn't meant to spin as fast as the engine and should only ever run at about 2,000rpm. However that still wastes 2 or 3 hp so I'd advise electric fans anyway.
-
However that still wastes 2 or 3 hp so I'd advise electric fans anyway.
Now then, here is a question that may start a disscution but I am going to ask it.
If the viscous coupled fan uses 2-3hp to move enough air to keep the radiator at a reasonable temperature then if you remove the viscous fan and replace it with an electric one then to keep the temperature down you need to get the 2-3hp to run the electric motor from someware.
Therefore are you not just transfering the drag on the engine from the fan pulley to the altenator pulley?
The only advantage you gain is manual control of when it is on or off so you can stop the fan when driving through deep water.
Remember you don't get anything for nothing in this world.
-
Therefore are you not just transfering the drag on the engine from the fan pulley to the altenator pulley?
The only advantage you gain is manual control of when it is on or off so you can stop the fan when driving through deep water.
Remember you don't get anything for nothing in this world.
This is true, the power to run the fan does need to come from somewhere, however:
1. The fan doesn't need to run all the time, so it won't be constantly putting a load on the alternator.
2. Because the fan doesn't run when the engine's cooler, it can get up to optimal running temperature quicker.
-
True.. but when I'm driving my electric fan very rarely comes on. A viscous fan is always spinning at some speed.
The fan also generates a fair amount of noise.. once again, this energy has to come from somewhere.
I don't know about 2 or 3 HP, but there will be some energy input required from the engine.
Mine is electric for the reasons you mention.. so I can choose when it works.
-
2. Because the fan doesn't run when the engine's cooler, it can get up to optimal running temperature quicker.
I've never really bought that. The thermostat should keep the coolant from circulating through the radiator until the engine is warm, so the effect will be minimal IMHO.
-
You're right Sooty, it did start a discussion.
Correct, the fan should only be needed when the car is stationary or towing, in fact some cars have grilles designed to limit the airflow thus preventing overcooling (mkI Fiesta for one).
When the fan is running then yes, roughly the same hp comes from the electrical system. I know it's about 2hp on a Ford crossflow so it's going to be more on a V8.
It will only help heat-up if your thermostat is bust.
Does that cover all the above?
Oh yes, if you fit the elctrics ahead of the rad it won't spray water on the dizzy quite as badly as the engine driven one.
I'm now thinking about trimming some of the fins on my rad grille.......