Mud-club
Chat & Social => The Bar - General Chat => Topic started by: Guy90 on April 18, 2005, 18:15:14
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While trying to nick the 110 last night the imobiliser was tampered with. I have the type where you push in a little elctronic key thing and the red light on the dash goes to green.
The slot was hanging out of its housing but there appears to be no damage to the wiring. However it stays on red and won't change to green so I can start it.
Any ideas anyone?
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Have you tried to bypass it to get it started yet?
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Have you tried to bypass it to get it started yet?
Wouldn't know where to start mate :?
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disconnect the battery and then reconnect it,then try again.
this might reset the imobiliser.good luck.
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disconnect the battery and then reconnect it,then try again.
this might reset the imobiliser.good luck.
Sadly not :cry: :cry:
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The imobiliser went on turtle a while back, A very good RAC man (seems to be a rrear thing) was able to bypass the alarm, not sure how he done it, but it was within the engine bay, the only problem was you had to stall the motor to stop it running.
Had a new imobiliser since and no more problems.
Sorry that wasn't much help was it :?
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Er no! Not a lot :lol:
Might try a whole new imobiliser. Will have to get some one to fit it as I haven't a clue how they are fitted.
Whatever they did last night has broken it but I can't see what is broken. Had to leave the 110 where they rolled it to (bottom of our drive). If it's still there in the morning I'll be amazed. Fairly certain the guys that did it are still around :evil:
Guy
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remove prop-shafts if you think they are comming back, or as you can do this in you sleep rip of the wheel and bearing :lol: :lol: :lol: they an't gunna take it if they can't drive it :roll:
btw PM sent on disarming.... don't want to encurage thiefs :)
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remove prop-shafts if you think they are comming back, or as you can do this in you sleep rip of the wheel and bearing :lol: :lol: :lol:
:(biglaugh): :(biglaugh): Class.
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I've removed a wheel for the time being. Have some tips on how to bypass it to start it but it doesn't really mean anything to me. Not good with electrics. Anyway I need a permenant urgent solution.
Been looking at immobilisers and fitting charges etc. Expensive so may be off the road for a while this time :cry:
Guy
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Cement a ground anchor ring into the drive and chain the flaming thing up with a good solid padlock, then electrify the thing :twisted:
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i take it you cant start your motor ..under the dash you should have a box immobiliser control ..this is grafted into your existing wiring loom ,check all the colours correspond and reconnect .. its that easy ..just a bit scarey ..iv'e done a few for the local auction , so didnt matter if i got it wrong, but haven't as yet, just takes a little time to trace it all, especially if the fitter was good at his job :) hope it helps.. and to prevent em pinching it i suggest you fit a claymore mine to the dash ,the m.o.d have some spare now they are banned :lol:
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When my immobaliser got a wash in a ford last year, it wouldn't start, in the end I got a screwdriver and a wire from the battery, shorted the spade terminal out on the starter, luckily the immobiliser was only on the starter circuit, when bypassed it started, mind you after that it means that if you dragged it, it would have started too
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i take it you cant start your motor ..under the dash you should have a box immobiliser control ..this is grafted into your existing wiring loom ,check all the colours correspond and reconnect .. its that easy ..just a bit scarey ..iv'e done a few for the local auction , so didnt matter if i got it wrong, but haven't as yet, just takes a little time to trace it all, especially if the fitter was good at his job :) hope it helps.. and to prevent em pinching it i suggest you fit a claymore mine to the dash ,the m.o.d have some spare now they are banned :lol:
He was so good that he fitted everything out of reach as far back as he could and sheathed the whole thing in rubber. The control is right at the back behind the das and has one very thick black cable (which I suspect all the revelevant cables connect into). Problem is that I can't see where all the wires go so not sure which one to reconnect. What colour is likely to be and where on the ignition barrel is it likely to be? Is that the only wire that would need doing. There are a large number of wires running in and out of the main cable. Surely they have to connected to something? I even have a green wire from it to the casing of the brake servo??
Wiring really means absolutly nothing to me!
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sounds like he tied it back into the wiring loom (wrapped in tape ? )proper job .. now at a guess im saying he chopped into your ignition wires and the wires to your fuel cut off switch (pump) ..but without seeing it im having to guess .. ..... if you have never done it before it would be best to take it to a garage should only take about half an hour to remove it ..if your getting another alarm id get a clifford expensive but good its got everything on it ..except make the tea
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Try phoning/popping into a Land Rover dealership and ask them?
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Think i will take it to garage (once I've worked out how to get it there and pay the bill.
Gords,
It is factory fitted buy our local dealer will chase me off the forecourt if i turn up with mine. Bit too old.
Looking at the damage I think it is the slot where the immobiliser key goes into tha tis damage. Any one know where to get spares. Had a quick look on Google but nothing came up.
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wouldn't even dare take something like that back to a dealer, have a look through yellow pages and get a profesional alarm person out to fit you a new one... this will cost about £100 with insulation for a cat2 insurance improved may be £150 at most for a really good quility one. and the bonus is they will come to you and make a real good job of it.
why pay £80/hr for some muppet that hasn't got a clue as all he can do is follow the LR manual :(kerching):
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wouldn't even dare take something like that back to a dealer, have a look through yellow pages and get a profesional alarm person out to fit you a new one... this will cost about £100 with insulation for a cat2 insurance improved may be £150 at most for a really good quility one. and the bonus is they will come to you and make a real good job of it.
why pay £80/hr for some muppet that hasn't got a clue as all he can do is follow the LR manual :(kerching):
do you know anyone decent in our area?
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try these
http://www.alarmwizard.co.uk/micro/index.html
£99 fitted at home and no silly keys :)
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There was an immobiliser like that fitted to one of my 90's... didn't take very long to remove... was cat 2 but nothing difficult. Most immobilisers like this only interrupt two wires to the back of the ignition key; the other wires are a live and an earth.
I'd imagine that the immobiliser will only be connected to the ignition circuit, as on a Diesel there is no point connecting it to the fuel solenoid, all this needs is a 12volts supply under the bonnet and you can jump start the Land Rover.
As long as you can use a multi meter you should be able to sort the wiring out yourself... I have got a spare dash loom if it all goes a bit Pete Tong!!!!
If you were a bit closer would lend a hand.
Ian
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I got mine from GAP security and was quite happy with it. If it's a cat 2 remember to tell the insurance you've had a new one. (it's about time insurance companies realised how s***e these products they insist we have fitted are).
Meanwhile a good wheel clamp is worth it's weight in steel :D
(Winchman was selling a couple, but guess where they ended up :D )
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try these
http://www.alarmwizard.co.uk/micro/index.html
£99 fitted at home and no silly keys :)
Cheers mate. I'll give them a ring. Doing from home would be good. Saves me trying to find a way of starting the thing.
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There was an immobiliser like that fitted to one of my 90's... didn't take very long to remove... was cat 2 but nothing difficult. Most immobilisers like this only interrupt two wires to the back of the ignition key; the other wires are a live and an earth.
I'd imagine that the immobiliser will only be connected to the ignition circuit, as on a Diesel there is no point connecting it to the fuel solenoid, all this needs is a 12volts supply under the bonnet and you can jump start the Land Rover.
As long as you can use a multi meter you should be able to sort the wiring out yourself... I have got a spare dash loom if it all goes a bit Pete Tong!!!!
If you were a bit closer would lend a hand.
Ian
Cheers for the offer :D going to get an expert to sort it. I'll only mess it up!