Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: nismo2004 on May 02, 2010, 22:51:54
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having more problms with my front wheel bearings.
fitted a set on temken wheel bearings and a new stub axle on the front of my disco a week ago,
i have done around 200 miles and now i have play again, and the side with the new stub is the worse,
last time the passenger side bearing had fallen apart causing damage to the stub axle and i had to replace the stub axle aswell.
hope to get the car up on stands again this week to inspect to see if just needs adjsting or if the bearings are wearing again .
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Crikey, play again after just 200 miles? Don't sound right. I've done about 350 miles since I did my fronts t'other week and they're still good and tight.
Guess you gotta ask: did you replace the inner races in the hub? What grease did you use and how much? Did you torque up the bearings correctly?
Hope it's something simple :)
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Don't panic. Set the bearings, check them for grease of course and see how you go, one of the races might have been unseated.
Also, did you check the CV joint endfloat?
Finally have you checked the steering swivel joints thoroughly? I know a guy who went through several sets of bearings (MOT fail IIRC) before anyone noticed it was the swivel not the wheel bearing.
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panic over, they was in need of adjusting as i didn realise they needed t be torqed on.
they was still clean and full of grease evn after my day of laning yesterday.
so fingers cross should be fin now for a good while..
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Err, torqued on? not heard of that before. I hope you mean the 18lb/ft or so it takes to "settle" the bearings before you slacken them off? taper rollers need a tint amount of free play which is barley detectable at the rim once the wheel is back on.
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according to haynes manual, they need to me torgued to 65nm then slacken off then re touque to 3nm.
i dont have a socket to fit just a box spanner so have to do it by feel,
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Thats not how i set wheel bearings, ive fitted over 250 sets in 4 years according to my stocks, never had one come loose :doh:
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will be keepinh a close eye on them, not sure if im having trouble due to the supension and body lift and the 265/75/16 tyres.
did wonder if they was to much for the bearings
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Thats not how i set wheel bearings, ive fitted over 250 sets in 4 years according to my stocks, never had one come loose :doh:
Mick,
I'm sure that most people don't follow the torque/slacken/re-torque process but in purely engineering terms it is the correct way to set taper bearings. Considering the method of locking up the nuts in the hubs it's not surprising you've never had one come loose :D
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I don't know how Mick sets them (though he does know what he's doing)n but my Haynes says you set them by Backlash or endfloat on the stub axle. That of course is for the RRC and I suspect the endfloat is far less on later cars.
I suspect that if you set them by torque then it's only suitable for new bearings, taper rollers need a tiny amount of free play or they break up (ask me how I know ;)).
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That of course is for the RRC
Same on my Disco (300TDi) though I haven't looked it up in the Haynes Book Of Confusion since the first time you helped me, since then it's been tighten until your arm aches then back it off 'a bit'.
A very technical description but it has worked fine for years.....
.... awaits all bearing failing tomorrow.