body lift

[way2deep]

will put piccies on over the weekend

[clover]

there are several floor supports that need some blocks

Could you elaborate on that a bit. I have the 10 spacers and the 4 seat belt bolts. Do I also need extra spacers making then? Where are these supports located under the boot floor I guess. But where else?

[way2deep]

hi , you will find the front floor sits on the chassis and the rear floor pan sits on four supports hidden behind the rear wheels.the trouble with these rear supports is they go out of line when body is raised ,cos they are angled .what i did was put a metre length of 2x2 on the chassis and bevelled each end to match the floor mounts ,then welded the 2x2 to the chassis..confused.. all will become clear when you lift it  :D

[bigblue]

Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety

You are going down the same route as I have done. Yes you will need extended brake pipes. Scorpion Racing do a very nice stainless set and work a treat.

BB...

[clover]

got a full set of std new body mount rubbers,

Hi

I would be interested if you can tell me if these were main agent only and if you remember the part number?

Were these two rubbers with seperate metal inserts or were they one piece?

Only I replaced two of these when I changed the rear cross member. The ones I got then were one piece. I seem to remember that the guy said these were upgraded design. The part numbers for the original bits are no good so this sounds likely.

I tried to get some more but the guy who got them for me has moved on, and the new guy does not have a clue, and I don't know what the part number might be.

I suspect the number is likely to be in the post 1991 Range parts book but I don't have that and I did not think of this until this morning.

Cheers

[Grunter]

Thanks, just checked out scorpion racing web site, not sure which toy to buy first..

As for rubbers,  they are two piece jobs with metal inserts,
I got them from bearmach, I remember the guy telling me they had thousands of em in warehouse stock so shouldnt be a problem. should be calling by there tomorrow so will get the numbers you need, the inserts were not available and i had to wait for ages to get some and im glad i did as when i removed mine most of them had rotted through.

[Grunter]

part numbers for bodymounts,

rubbers - ANR 1504 - 26p each

inserts - KVH 100030 - £4 each


dont know how that compares with the ones you got before, if you are stuck let me know and i will sort some out.[/quote]

[oakeedokee]

come on robbie, where's these photos got to?

[way2deep]

sorry chaps ..i will do photos of my lift tomorrow(sunday)...was at whaddon last sat/sunday and been to france today ..busy man  :D

[Grunter]

not a good pic but heres how my lift turned out..

[clover]

Hi

Started mine this weekend. Only just got all the body mounts from Craddocks.

I was late starting the lift. This was partly due to the fact that my friend wanted me to help him fit leather seats in his Rangie. This went pear shaped when all the bolts on the rear seats snaped and required new holes drilling out.

I was going to do the lift at the garage I work at on their 4 poster but it dawned on me that since I fitted the 255/85R16 tyres I only have a 1/2" clearence under the shutter because of the roof rack.

Adding 2" would have meant me having to remove the roof rack to get back out again! So I had to do it on the drive at home. So had no air tools and was restricted by the light.

All went well initially.

Managed to get all the body mount bolts undone and they were all loose in the top hats. Look in fairly good order apart from the two rear ones under the rear doors.

I then started on the body ties.I got the front one on the near side off no problem. I started undoing the rear one and it got slowly tighter and tighter until I could not even turn it with the breaker bar. I would heat it up normally if I was at the garage but at home I don't have anything to heat it up with. Finally got it off but whacked myself in the face with the breaker bar for my troubles.

Whilst I was doing one of the front body mounts I noticed the floor looked a bit crunchy along the seam. Gave it a poke and a large section of floor fell out :-( So it seems I need to do some welding as well :-( Still it explains why the passenger carpet often felt damp to the touch.

Ho hum...

I can now see why one of you suggested 2" box section under the floor at several points where it is suported by the chassis. I will have to sort something out on that front. That will have to wait until next week when I can get hold of something suitable.

I did have trouble with the bolts I ordered. They don't have quite enough thread on them. Going to have to get some over size nuts or something to enable me to tighten things up nice and tight.

Still got the replacement body ties to fit and the radiator mounts to sort out. I was a bit worried at first that 2" was not enought but looking at it I think I may get away with it just.

Watch this space... I will have to try and put pictures up when its done...  :-)

[clover]

Hi

All done bar drilling two new holes for the rad and the rear body ties. The cotter pins are so rusted in I can't budge them. Had to remove the unbolt the mounts to remove them complete. Taking them in to work tomorrow to get the gas torch on them and heat them up until they as as red as satans ... and then give them a goood seeing to with the persuader.

Dare say after that I will need new ones :-(

[clover]

Hi

All done. Got the rear body tie mounts apart after heating them up. Took the opportunity to change over the rear seat belts as it had non standard ones that made putting the kids in their seats really hard work as they were about 2" shorter.

I was told today that I really need to get extended brake pipes as mine will break as soon as I go off road.

I know you chaps who are doing 4" lifts mentioned needing brake pipes. Do I also need brake pipes as well? None of you other chaps mentioned brake pipes...

[Grunter]

if you currently have standard brake pipes you will certainly need longer ones, I have just got a set from scorpion racing as advised by bigblue, made sense to change all of them for braided items.  Not got round to putting them on yet as im in the middle of engine transplant!!  I have done a 2 1/2" body lift and will let you know if they are long enough once i put them on this weekend.

[clover]

Hi

Yes I have ordered a set from http://www.llama4x4.co.uk/

Hoping to get them before Christmas but looking a bit iffy at the minute.

Cheers

[Garth]

Hi chaps

Been watching this post with interest as I havent a clue about lifts

Why a 2" body lift as apposed to a 2" suspension lift

Whats the difference apart from the cost,  as far as I can tell the only advantage of a suspension lift will be improved articulation?

[way2deep]

a 2 inch body lift will only lift the body therefore keeping the vehicle a bit more stable cos engine/gearbox weight stays lower helping the center of gravity ..but on a 2 inch suspension lift you get better engine /gearbox clearance.i did a 2inch body lift and bigger tyres .cos with bigger tyres you also get axle lift as well.(which still stays at the same height with body or suspension lift)

[clover]

Hi

There is an article in LRM at the moment covering a Rangie that was lifted by 4" (2" on the body and 2" on the suspension).

I have also written an article on http://www.rangie.com/

The advantage of a body lift over a suspension lift is as has been stated. It does not interfere with all the setup of you drivetrain...

It actually takes a lot of time, and expense, to get the vehicle right after a suspension lift.

For starters you need some sort of castor correction (usually involves replacing the panhard rods). You will also find that many people have trouble with noise from the front prop. The only way to cure this is to fit a decardon prop from a Disco II.

The hardest bit about the body lift is working out how best to extend the chassis supports for the floor (there are 4 of them at the back and there is also 2 points at the front where the floor is supported).

HTH

Cheers

[Greybeard]

Great thread is making me seriously think about doing this. Please can we have some more photos if poss , thanks.

Steve