Need advice about changing brakes on series

[Kate]

Can anyone help  (please)  :(

Brakes are no good on my series, does any one know how hard or easy it would be to change them to disk brakes.
 :)

I understand there is a kit you can buy, but how much work or cost is involved in changing them.

Also does anyone know where I can obtain such item.

[thermidorthelobster]

I put discs on the front of my 101 (which is vaguely series-esque, but not the same of course).

I used the Zeus kit, and found I had to do a lot of grinding of the callipers to make them fit.  And one of the rims now rubs on the steering rod, which isn't great.  Other people seem to have had the same experience with the Zeus 101 kit.

But apart from the angle grinding it was an easy job to fit them.

Before you go to the expense though, probably worth checking all the other things (air locks, fluid past it, leaky seals, snail cams need adjusting, etc).

[jimthelandyman]

If you have been off roading then your brakes will be crap as all the mud gets collected in the drums, clean the brakes out with the hose makes a noticable difference when they are clean. Make sure you clean out your drum brakes after off roading in big mud puddles because it knackers the wheel cylinders and they start leaking.

[Kate]

The reason I thought of disk brakes is that I am having problems with one of the brakes (it doesn't work until the car gets warm).

As yet I have not used the car off road, but the car was caked in mud on the chassis, have cleaned off the worst, but now the brakes squeak (like nails on a blackboard).

Any more advice will be taken on board.

Thanks Guys

[Rich_P]

You might not have much in the form of brake pads even left... As has been suggested, check them out, and give them a good overhaul.

You'll then be able to see the condition of the brake system, and replace parts as needed.  :)

[Kate]

Cheers bud

[Reaper]

I have a series III and I replaced everything bar the drums and now the brakes are very good even without a servo.
just make sure they are set up and adjusted properly to start with.  :D

[Kate]

Cheers mate

Any chance you can find out how much new pads and cylinders would be failing that I will talk to you tomorrow.

Once again

Cheers bud

[Rich_P]

One of the commonly used Land Rover parts suppliers is Paddocks.  Be aware though, when it comes to brakes, go for genuine stuff, for things like brake cylinders and drums.  The britpart ones don't have the best of reputations, and the Britpart drums have been known to distort after a while of regular use.  :shock:

[Reaper]

Any chance you can find out how much new pads and cylinders would

I will find out on monday for you but Suspect that Paddocks will be cheaper :)

C YA 2morro  :lol:

[Reaper]

Britpart drums have been known to distort after a while of regular use

The very reason I didn't change mine.  :D

[Jake]

:roll:
Who let the misses on the pc
 :lol:

[Stormin]

I also think you should strip things down.  Another option to discs would be to fit, (if it doesn't have them), a servo and lwb front brakes.  Did that with my old 88" and what a difference. :D

[jimthelandyman]

Britpart cylinders are about 6 quid on paddock but they don't last long but i use them anyway.

[cstokes]

Another way is to fit range rover axles like mine, however it isn't a straight forward conversion.  But the advantages are obvious, 25% differance in the diffs, 6" wider which has improved the stability, and disc brakes all round.

[Jake]

Another way is to fit range rover axles like mine, however it isn't a straight forward conversion.  But the advantages are obvious, 25% differance in the diffs, 6" wider which has improved the stability, and disc brakes all round.

So whats involved in swapping the axles?
Is it a big job?

[dave_2A_2.25Turbo]

Take a pair of RaRo axles

Grind everything off the case

Cut the spring seats off a pair of series axles

Weld said seats onto RaRo axles at correct spacing and angle

Bolt to Series Landy

Simple - or it would be if it wasn't for the angle bit.  I think you have to put a spacer under the seat (possibly to make up for the material lost through cutting.

If you do a search, there's details on several sites.

You'll need to fit a servo anyway (discs rubbish without) so why not do that first - I have and the difference is amazing

[dave_2A_2.25Turbo]

BTW - I think theree's issues about the steering linkage as well.

Zeus and Chris Perfect  do Bolt on kits, but they're far from cheap

[Miniman]

I have britpart brakes and cylinders on my series 3. not had any problems at all they have been fit since march this year. I think some of you have just been unlucky. Looks like you got friday afternoon brakes....eg time to go home hurry up.... :lol:
Also I get mud in the brakes ALOT.... :twisted:

[cstokes]

As Dave 2a turbo said you cut all the brakets off of the rr axles, you either cut off the spring seats from the series axles or fabricate some new ones. Welding the seats back onto the rr axles (will have to grind the o/s front one because of the angle of the diff.  Now the rear axle is a doddle to fit just measure the distances etc: to ensure you have the axle in the correct position then weld the spring platformes onto the rr axles, you and position the rear diff at any angle you want but i would suggest that you position it tyhe same as the series as if you incline it like an rr it puts the prop at the wrong angle which causes it to vibrate when you back off the throttle.
Now the front one is complicated, The fitting of the spring platforms is the same the rear, there is several ways of getting the rear steering link to fit, one is to cut and weld it to clear the springs and the diff (frankly not my choice), Two remove the rear drag link, fit it with rose joints, get a left hand drive o/s swivel housing and fit the drag link at the front of the axle (expensive). Three is to incline the diff so the drag link clears the springs, but be careful as if you incline the diff to much it causes the front prop to hit the engine mounting on braking and also causes the prop to bind up on braking. The way around this is to either get special props made up (expensive), put spacers between the spings and the spring seats (lowering the vehicle by approx 1"), or by lifting the body and the engine 2".   Oh nearly forgot don't incline the diff to far or it puts the castor angle to far out and the vehicle the doesn,t self centre the steering and tramlines on the road.  Hope this helps.

[Xtremeteam]

As Dave 2a turbo said you cut all the brakets off of the rr axles, you either cut off the spring seats from the series axles or fabricate some new ones. Welding the seats back onto the rr axles (will have to grind the o/s front one because of the angle of the diff.  Now the rear axle is a doddle to fit just measure the distances etc: to ensure you have the axle in the correct position then weld the spring platformes onto the rr axles, you and position the rear diff at any angle you want but i would suggest that you position it tyhe same as the series as if you incline it like an rr it puts the prop at the wrong angle which causes it to vibrate when you back off the throttle.
Now the front one is complicated, The fitting of the spring platforms is the same the rear, there is several ways of getting the rear steering link to fit, one is to cut and weld it to clear the springs and the diff (frankly not my choice), Two remove the rear drag link, fit it with rose joints, get a left hand drive o/s swivel housing and fit the drag link at the front of the axle (expensive). Three is to incline the diff so the drag link clears the springs, but be careful as if you incline the diff to much it causes the front prop to hit the engine mounting on braking and also causes the prop to bind up on braking. The way around this is to either get special props made up (expensive), put spacers between the spings and the spring seats (lowering the vehicle by approx 1"), or by lifting the body and the engine 2".   Oh nearly forgot don't incline the diff to far or it puts the castor angle to far out and the vehicle the doesn,t self centre the steering and tramlines on the road.  Hope this helps.

that sounds like a lot of work for a fairly small benefit

fitted new drums,shoes & cylinders to series motors at work when they are adjusted up it stands on its nose no prbs

[dave_2A_2.25Turbo]

Like I said - fit a servo first- the difference is amazing (but everything else needs to be up to scratch as well)

[Miniman]

that sounds like a lot of work for a fairly small benefit

fitted new drums,shoes & cylinders to series motors at work when they are adjusted up it stands on its nose no prbs

I totaly agree. I have 11inch front drums and a 90 servo. It stops no problem....Series all the way. Big up the old bus..... :lol:

[cstokes]

I would ordinarilly agree, when i had the 2.25 lump in and the brakes were adjusted correctly the brakes were exellent, however after fitting the disco 200tdi the drum brakes just fade away far to quickly when trying to stop from speed.  Fit a tdi and try it for yourself.  The other advantage is that after wading the discs dry out alot quicker than the drums. I supose it all depends on what you are using your vehicle for.

[thermidorthelobster]

Speaking of which, does anybody have a document or website which describes nicely how Land Rover brake servos work?  Having never taken one apart, I don't want to have to find out the hard way when they pack in in the desert...

[muddyweb]

I went through the whole 'disc brakes on a Series' exercise when I had the V8 in mine...   what a lot of fuss.. and the insurance company went white when I talked to them about it.  (This is a good company too, not just a 'normal' one)

I ended up with LWB drums on the front and a Servo..   that would stop a V8 powered 88", even towing a couple of tons of trailer... no insurance issues either.

As for parts....  there are a few places I absolutely refuse to cut corners... the braking system is one of them.   I use genuine or OE parts for brakes...  I learned that lesson when I was a new Series 3 owner without much money...  bought a pattern brake slave cylinder...  let's just say, it wasn't much fun when it failed about 3 months later  :shock:

[luffy]

I went through the whole 'disc brakes on a Series' exercise when I had the V8 in mine...   what a lot of fuss.. and the insurance company went white when I talked to them about it.  (This is a good company too, not just a 'normal' one)

I ended up with LWB drums on the front and a Servo..   that would stop a V8 powered 88", even towing a couple of tons of trailer... no insurance issues either.

As for parts....  there are a few places I absolutely refuse to cut corners... the braking system is one of them.   I use genuine or OE parts for brakes...  I learned that lesson when I was a new Series 3 owner without much money...  bought a pattern brake slave cylinder...  let's just say, it wasn't much fun when it failed about 3 months later  :shock:

Totally agree Tim.

Before I put the V8 in my 88" I changed the brakes for the 11" LWB set-up and with the correct master cylinder (there's two sizes) and a servo the difference in braking performance was astounding.

Also, the Insurance Co weren't interested as the last of the S3 SWB had 11" front drums when they left the factory so it's considered 'standard equipment'.

If this arrangement is good enough for a V8 then it should be OK for any other engined Series LR.

[Pete Twissell]

I 'uprated' the brakes on my S2 by fitting LWB axles and master cylinder. You could just fit the LWB brakes and master cylinders, I fitted the whole axles 'cos I wanted the Salisbury rear diff. The brakes alone would be a bolt-on in the driveway job, while the axle swap involves cutting off, shifting and welding the rear axle spring seats and shortening the rear propshaft.

The LWB brakes are larger diameter and the fronts are twin leading shoe. The difference is substantial, at first test It felt like I could have stood the truck on it's front bumper!

Bits are easy/cheap to get and the conversion is straightforward. It might even be worth doing just the front brakes and master cylinder, as mine is a bit rear biased. (Unloaded, rear wheels lock before fronts).

Pete.