2" lift essentials

[Tyke]

Guys - about to lift the Discovery a couple of inch but need a quick bit of a confidence boost.

Having done plenty of searching around in the old posts it seems 2" is a pretty usefull and "standard'ish" lift and will not cause undue problems with the props and uj's. Was wondering about the brake lines though, some say it will need them others say not. Reckon I will get a set just in case and check it out when the vehicle is jacked. ABS brake sensors are also fitted, will the leads be long enough and what can I do if they ain't?

Also been thinking along the lines of disclocation cones, having heard the rear springs can "pop" with a lift. Can they be fitted easily at a later date as time is tight at the moment?

Got some space booked in the mates workshop for next Saturday afternoon so any idea on how the long the job will take and anything I have missed that I should watch out for.

Have a four post lift available and plenty of jacks, stands, tools etc.

Cheers

[PUX]

eh up when i did mine i went with longer brake lines its just makes sense while your there just to do it for the sake of 35 pound and hour or so to do then you have peace of mind

[Mr Bump]

get lots WD40 on everything (my favourite answer!)

Jubilee clips are a short term fix for making sure your springs don't dislocate  

Dunno about Discos but on my 110 there was still a good amount of slack on the brake lines even when the chassis was supported and the axles were at full articulation (me stood on the end while the springs were being squeezed in)

Good luck!

[Tyke]

Yeah mate - was thinking that myself. Safety critical issue. Can live with popping a rear spring but might not live with a popped brake line . . . . .  

[gords]

It took me near on 2 days to change all 4 springs and shocks. That was just me, on the drive. Most things did not undo/come off easily, even after many days of WD40-ing :roll:

From what I've read in the past, I would say it's probably worth going for extended brake lines for the peace of mind. Do you have (will you be keeping) anti-roll bars? If so, you won't need dis/re-location cones.

There are varying reports on whether +2" affects steering, etc. You may find it (the steering) will "tramline" and not centre properly.

[Tyke]

Gords mate - hear what you are saying about geting things undone. Been round the chassis and it looks like all may free up ok. Gonna hose everything down before starting and give it all a good soak in WD. Getting a new set of front spring seats so the 5/16 bolts on the front shock towers can shear if they want to

Really only got a short space to do it in so was thinking about whipping round with the spanners and make sure everything will free up first. Must have the motor back on the road ASAP for work.

Will leave arb's on for now so won't need the cones I take it.

[barmiebrumie]

Tyke, dont know if it helps but managed to change all 4 springs & shocks on my rrc in a day on my own (16hrs) also fitted extended & braided pipes,

as you say its a v/good idea to crack all nuts you can before hand,

soaked mine in wd40 & put a rag soaked in diesle on them over night for a couple of nights,



John

[gords]

The two biggest problems I had were getting the bottom nut on the front shock absorbers undone (the flats for the 7mm spanner are a joke!), and getting the nuts off of the top rear shock mounts.

I used an oil filter tool around the shock absorber body to undo the front nuts. On the rear, I used a nut splitter to get the old nuts off, then a good clean with a wire brush and some oil while I did the (new) nuts back up :)

I assume you'll have some spring compressors?

[BrumLee]

I assume you'll have some spring compressors?

Rears can be changed without, front yes unless you disconnect the brake hoses. So if you plan to upgrade the hoses do the whole job in one go  

[gords]

I assume you'll have some spring compressors?

Rears can be changed without, front yes unless you disconnect the brake hoses. So if you plan to upgrade the hoses do the whole job in one go  

All I can say is when I did mine - 300TDi with anti-roll bars, fitting +1" springs - even undoing the anti-roll bar on both sides still didn't allow enough space to fit the springs without the use of compressors. :)  Even after a great deal of pushing down of axle  :lol:  That's not to say, of course, that I was doing it right, but the above was my experience!

[Tyke]

managed to change all 4 springs & shocks on my rrc in a day on my own (16hrs)

Looks like it could be a long aftenoon then if things don't run smooth.

Best I get a case of beer ordered as well for when the jobs done - :lol:  

Seriously though, the workshop is well equipped for classic car/truck restoration work so it's just down to freeing up all the bits and bobs. May be able to get a couple of spare bods to help if I can prize them away from their own projects for a few hours. (i.e. pull a favour or two  )

[barmiebrumie]

Forgot to mention i'm no mechy, so if your got with the old spanners you should be o/k,



John.

[paul_humphreys]

It was on my RRc, but it took me about 6 hours to change all 4 springs, shocks, front -2" turrets, -2" lower rear shocks mounts on mine. On the drive, no spring comperssors needed. I would get new turret rings to put on, then if in time you change the turret to shorter ones you will not have drop the springs again if the studs break. Yes go for longer break lines. Mine had them fitted along with all new copper pipes before I did the springs.

[Tyke]

Yes go for longer break lines. Mine had them fitted along with all new copper pipes before I did the springs.

Makes a lot of sense mate. As I said, I am on limited time so it may pay to split the job in two. Sort the brakes and do a trial primary crack on all the nuts and bolts etc and then follow on with the lift a week later. Already decided on fitting new turret rings to cover me for any sheared bolts.

Will carry on with the original plan for now and decide once I know I can get everything off without too much trouble. If it looks like being a long haul I'll do it in two sessions.

Based on what you guys are telling me I think I will be ok, I seem to have most angles covered and my mates' an experienced mechanic and very handy to have around.

Will make sure I have brake lines handy before starting so with luck all will go well.

Just leaves the ABS thing really, not sure on how they are wired and how long the leads are.

Thanks for all your comments so far guys, I'm actually looking forward to doing the job  

[paul_humphreys]

Try www.llama4x4.co.uk for the break lines.

Paul

[Range Rover Blues]

The rear ABS wiring probably goes alonside the rear A frame, so you should get away with leaving it alone.  If it runs alongside the brake line I'd suggest trying to pull a little spare from somewhere.  As for the front the same applies, try to find a little slack in the wiring loom to cover the extra travel, otherwise I'd suggest cut and solder to extend the wires a little and cover the joints with heatshrink tubing.

[Tyke]

Was under the vehicle the other day checking the fittings before ordering  new extended flexible brake lines and noticed the rear ABS wiring ran alongside the hard-piped brakelines . . . . . thats after I'd scaped enough of the muck off to identify anything   :lol:

If I cannot wriggle enough slack from the loom and it needs a cut and solder thats not a problem.

All set up now for a Saturday change-over, new brake lines due for delivery from Llama tommorrow. Good hose down tonight and application of wire brush and a soak in WD40 for a couple of days and were ready to rock and roll  :D

[Tyke]

Just a quick update on the lift.

Saturday came and onto the ramps we went - 2½ hours later I was test driving . . . . . . is that a record for doing a 2" lift  :D

No problems with anything other than one front upper spring seat/tower mounting stud sheared. Good job I got some new ones just in case.

The whole plot rides much firmer now with the kit fitted and is a bit harder for my 5'6" body to get into  :P

Sorrry no pics but I've no website to host them.

Many thanks to Dai and Danny from Priory Vehicle Engineers in Fitzwilliam West Yorkshire for the help and support and use of Dans workshop . . and thanks to you lot for your advice . . . . it was much appreciated and saved a lot of time and headscratching.

Bush Tucker Man . . . . Danny is the guy with the restored Buick V8 you may have seen in the area  

[TimM]

Glad you've got it all together, and are happy with it  :D

Sorrry no pics but I've no website to host them.

You can use your picture Gallery on Mud-Club if you like  

Click on 'photos' at the bottom of your post and log in  8)

[Tyke]

Click on 'photos' at the bottom of your post and log in

Ahaaa! so thats how you do it . . . . will sort some pics soon as I get chance.

[Budgie]

You can also add an attachment at the bottom of the post window, take note of the photo sizes though!!  

Did you replace the rubber seats that sit on top of the rear springs or did you leave them out, just out of interest?

For the ARBs, if you find the ball joints on the axle invert when you're off road then add some 2" spacers under the chassis mounts.
RRB has used tow ball spacers for the job, the solid ones.  

[Tyke]

Rubbers went back in.

One rear arb bush found to be shot so that needs replacing asap. Might space the mount as suggested at same time.

Here's a few pics . . . .

[Spooky]

I fitted a lift kit to the D2 yesterday; took five hours overall (I was on my todd, with a jack and axle stands) ...

The truck rides better now, and doesn't hit the bump stops as soon as you look at a speed bump!!