AuthorTopic: Thrust bearing  (Read 2198 times)

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Offline BigBlue90

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Thrust bearing
« on: March 30, 2006, 11:58:16 »
Hi, anyone any ideas if replacing a thrust bearing on a 1993 200tdi disco is expensive or time consuming?



Offline nick8556

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2006, 12:36:19 »
Hello
Yes the thrust bearings are expensive to replace if you don't do it yourself,
if you are replacing the thrust bearing also replace the arm as well.
You can do both the these jobs by moving the gearbox backwards about six to eight inches and alittle struggling, if the cluth has not been done for a long time have this done at the sametime!!!

Good luck

Nick
Disco series 1 td5
Disco 300 Tdi
Range rover V8
Land rover 90(remote control)

The shrink as now given up trying to cure me of the Land rover bug !!  He has now bought one himself!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Disco Inferno

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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2006, 13:14:22 »
if your doing the thrust bearing do EVERTHING else inside which is replaceable, it'll save you a lot of time and money in the long run

So thats clutchcover , cover plate, crank shaft oil seal, clutch fork, and depending on its condition, the bracket and pin that the clutch fork sits on

don't forget to get a couple of new plastic clips which hold the push rod into place.

TIP - when your ready to fit the plastic clip, stick it in a mug of hot water for a wee while, far less likely to break.
2000 Discovery TD5 GS

1999 Alfa Romeo 146 TS rallycar
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Offline Leigh

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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2006, 21:04:20 »
I think I may have the same problem. What sort of cost in parts are to be expected for all that you have listed?

Cheers
Leigh

110 Defender 300 tdi

Offline BigBlue90

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2006, 23:41:41 »
Brilliant help chaps, might leave it untill the weather gets a bit more sunny and stops raining. It might also give me enough time to work out which is correct end of a spanner!!!!



Offline discoman

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2006, 20:13:33 »
ive just done trhe clutch and bearing on mine the quickest way and easiest is to take the engine out
200 tdi
reverse dislocating cones
2" lift kit, pro comp shocks
steering gaurd,diff gaurds
tank gaurd plus detachable towhitch
rocksliders
snorkel,full breather kit
235/85/16 insa turbo sarhas
a bar, and lots of lights
cd/cb normally on chan 5

Offline Dr Neil

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2006, 20:53:11 »
Personally i prefer to take out the gearbox/transfer box complete, a bit heavy but o.k.Not too bad a job but as already has been said best to replace all the bits whilst the box is out.Only takes a couple of hours at most to get the box out, good luck
mate

Neil.....
200tdi over 200kmiles
+2"lift.
Procomp Es9000 shocks
235 MT's on silver modulars
diff guards
tank guard
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Offline Leigh

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2006, 23:08:30 »
Quote from: "discoman"
ive just done trhe clutch and bearing on mine the quickest way and easiest is to take the engine out


Quickest and easiest  :shock:
Leigh

110 Defender 300 tdi

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2006, 08:13:01 »
Quote from: "discoman"
ive just done trhe clutch and bearing on mine the quickest way and easiest is to take the engine out


want to come and do mine as think its just gone
 :cry:

Offline hobbit

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« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2006, 11:22:28 »
Quote from: "What happened was......."
Quote from: "discoman"
ive just done trhe clutch and bearing on mine the quickest way and easiest is to take the engine out


Quickest and easiest  :shock:


It is in a series 3 lightweight, Also after this summer my front on the disco is having a removable bonnet slam plate. so it may well be better for me to look at a clutch change that way too, have to think about that though
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline discoman

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2006, 12:34:28 »
if you lift the engine out that should take about 1 1/2 hours 1 hour to change clutch crank oil seal  arm and bearing  1 1/5 job done and then back to play  8)  8)
200 tdi
reverse dislocating cones
2" lift kit, pro comp shocks
steering gaurd,diff gaurds
tank gaurd plus detachable towhitch
rocksliders
snorkel,full breather kit
235/85/16 insa turbo sarhas
a bar, and lots of lights
cd/cb normally on chan 5

Offline hobbit

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #11 on: April 01, 2006, 16:12:02 »
Quote from: "discoman"
if you lift the engine out that should take about 1 1/2 hours 1 hour to change clutch crank oil seal  arm and bearing  1 1/5 job done and then back to play  8)  8)


and if it rains you can always put the bonnet down and work undercover :lol:
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline discoman

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2006, 18:08:31 »
Quote from: "hobbit"
Quote from: "discoman"
if you lift the engine out that should take about 1 1/2 hours 1 hour to change clutch crank oil seal  arm and bearing  1 1/5 job done and then back to play  8)  8)


and if it rains you can always put the bonnet down and work undercover :lol:





never thort of that  :D  :D
200 tdi
reverse dislocating cones
2" lift kit, pro comp shocks
steering gaurd,diff gaurds
tank gaurd plus detachable towhitch
rocksliders
snorkel,full breather kit
235/85/16 insa turbo sarhas
a bar, and lots of lights
cd/cb normally on chan 5

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Thrust bearing
« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2006, 17:17:47 »
If you don't have a pit or ramps I think it's easier/safer to move the engine too, the box weighs the same anyway and you aren't working beneath it :o

If you are only replacing the clutch then you can perhaps get away with slewing the engine forwards and not lifting it out, but it might be worth a new crank oil seal and check the surface of the flywheel too.  If it doesn't come out you only need to split the exhaust, remove the rad etc as the wiring and heater hoses should allow you to move the engine forewards.

If only Rover had had the sense to make an inspection cover you could assemble the clutch loosely and tighten the cover plate after the pilot bearing was in place.  I find lining that up the hardest part.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
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1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

 






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