Oh no, not a Haynes manual... you'll be there forever!
It's dead easy - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY:
1) undo the propshaft from the input side of the transfer box (4 bolts - don't forget to put a mark on both flanges so it goes back together in the same orientation) and pull it off the back of the gearbox.
2) Undo the four bolts holding the gearbox onto the engine.
3) Undo the starter motor.
4) Pull the gearstick out from in the cab - 4 bolts for the rubber boot and 3 for the retaining ring.
STICK A BLOCK OF WOOD BETWEEN THE DIZZY AND THE BULKHEAD. This saves the engine rotating downwards making removal and replacement of the gearbox easier. It also saves damaging the dizzy. THE BLOCK IS BEST IF IT'S A TIGHT FIT.
4) pull the gearbox towards the rear of the SJ about 6".
5) Undo the bolts around the flywheel (this is the trickiest part as you need to jam the flywheel but ingenuity works here.)
6) prise the plate off equally by working round it.
7) swap the clutch plate (and pressure plate and thrust bearing if you have a complete replacement kit... you should have).
8) replace everything in reverse.
Job done.
This is the easiest way I have found of doing it so far. But I'm sure there are others that will correct me. :lol:
Centering the clutch plate can normally be done by hand when you put the pressure plate on. Just feel around the edges for an equal difference, then keep nipping the bolts up (work diagonally across the plate) until its locked in postion and is still equi-distant all around. Then tighten them up.
Getting the gearbox back onto the spigot is the trickiest bit but a bit of wiggling and jigling normally works well. Sometimes another person to rotate the engine by hand using the pulley on the front of the engine helps rock the splines in. Hopefully the wooden block between the dizzy and bulkhead comes into its own here too.
Hope this helps and maybe somebody else will post some other shortcuts. Go on, you know you want to.
