LR 110... The Plan

[dew1911]

Ok, so now I've got Lucifer home I've had a chance to have a full reccy over him and what needs doing, and I've got the shortlist.

• Wheels need Painting
• Bodywork needs painting and treating in several areas
• Chassis could use a rub down and paint
• Chassis Re Waxoyled (Possibly)
• Drivers top door hinge bust causing door to drop and be a pain to close

The Chassis doesn't really need painting, but it's got some surface rust and hopefully if I do it now I won't encounter problems later. So the main question is what kind of paint is best to use on chassis? and is it worth Re Waxoyling him?

Cheers,
David.

[smo]

You are best to treat the rust, after a good steam clean, then apply hammerite or similar paint and cover with a good dose of underseal outside and waxoil/tetrasil inside :)

[Porny]

Best stuff I know of for treating rust is www.fertan.co.uk
Doesn't eat away at the metal unlike some other rust converters!

Wouldn't use hammerite to paint the chassis though, or red oxide...
Neither work that well and hammerite just chips/flakes off.

Better off finding a decent chassis paint... or just just giving everything a coat of wax-oil when clean.  (or have a look at some of the other products on the Fertan site... some good stuff there!)

Must be said... I do like the spotlights!!

[smo]

Hammerite works fine if you prepare the surface properly, just like any other paint.

Frosts is a good place to get supplies of good paints, of specialist kinds.

[Porny]

Hammerite works fine if you prepare the surface properly, just like any other paint.

Nope, still find it doesn't last that long.

Hammerite Paint is specially formulated to be applied directly onto rusty metal with minimal surface preparation. Simply remove any loose rust with a wire brush or coarse sandpaper and clean the surface with Hammerite Brush Cleaner & Thinners and allow time to dry. Then apply Hammerite Paint directly onto the rusty metal surface. No primer, no undercoat needed.

Still flaked off with pressure washing.....  

In all honestey, from what I've read before - some people get on with hammerite... some don't.


Ian

[dew1911]

You mean that stuff http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm?

And is it worth Waxoyling, he's had it done in the past and the chassis is sound.

[Henry Webster]

Waxoiling is definitely worth it.

Have to agree on hammerite.  I have a vehicle with a Hammerited chassis now, that was shotblasted before application and used to have one that I prepped myseld.  In both cases it chipped very easily.  Hammerite is very brittle unlike proper chassis paint.

I like the spotlight too... :lol:

[dew1911]

Everyone seems to like them spots... I'd like to get them to work (Think they only work with main beam)

So Waxoyling is a definate, now any tips as to how to prepare the chassis ect...

[Porny]

Everyone seems to like them spots... I'd like to get them to work (Think they only work with main beam)

Thats all they should do!!!

No.... actually I think they're broke.... I'll give you a couple of quid for them as they don't work!!!  

You mean that stuff http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm?

That's the stuff...

Some of the Dinitrol products are very good too.


Ian

[Henry Webster]

They would only be legal to work with main beam.   That is correct!

[dew1911]

I'd like them wired onto a seperate switch if possible so I can work them independantly (May look into that.)

Ok, complete dunce mode, where do I buy some Fertan?

[Porny]

Ok, complete dunce mode, where do I buy some Fertan?  

Click on "the shop" link  


Or give him a ring.

I'd like them wired onto a seperate switch if possible so I can work them independantly (May look into that.)

That's not really legal though......


Ian

[dew1911]

Ok, complete dunce mode, where do I buy some Fertan?  

Click on "the shop" link  

See, Dunce mode !Do'h! Approx how much would I need to coat a 110 chassis.

Surley, the spots are legal as long as plod doesn't see you use them on a public road, like roof lights.

[Henry Webster]

Not sure that is the case, because these spotlights would probably be MOTable if they are fitted.

Why would you want them separately switched anyway?  I can imagine why you might want to turn them off when on main beam (fog,snow,rain, reflections from road signs etc.  Ideally you would have a switch in the main beam trigger circuit for this).  I can't imagine why you would use the spotlights without main beam.

H

[Wolfie]

Surley, the spots are legal as long as plod doesn't see you use them on a public road, like roof lights.

Nothing illegal about roof lights, provided they comply with The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989 which doesn't state any maximum height for optional lights.

Not sure that is the case, because these spotlights would probably be MOTable if they are fitted.

No, Only obligatory lights are testable.

Regards

Wolfie

[Henry Webster]

Fair enough, thanks Wolfie!   Very useful link!

My point about why you would want it any other way still stands tho!

H

[dew1911]

Just something I fancy, the ability to run with nothing but the spot lamps on. plus just for odd situations when it may be better to use them over the headlamps.

[Henry Webster]

Just something I fancy, the ability to run with nothing but the spot lamps on. plus just for odd situations when it may be better to use them over the headlamps.

Fair enough, whatever floats your boat! :lol:  Just from experience when you want to run the spotlights, you will be wanting as much light as you can, so main beam as well will always help.

[dew1911]

Ok got two more jobs for the list

- PAS Leaking
- THINK that the front oil swivel seal has gone Drivers side.


All in the line of work though, and the sidelights fixed :)

[Porny]

Approx how much would I need to coat a 110 chassis.

Alan, the bloke who runs www.fertan.co.uk will tell you for definite (nice bloke)... but last time I asked:

For a road car it is enough to use Fertan Rust Converter and then an under-seal wax to have a surface that is unlikely to need general replacement/work for twelve to fifteen years.

The inside of any steel structures should be treated with Fertan, rinsed out, and then sprayed with cavity wax.

In a more hostile environment I would suggest that you paint everything you can with two or three coats of something designed to be waterproof.  These days I'd look for epoxy paints as they are just so much more resistant to water penetration.

With everything rust free and protected from water the next stage is to protect these coats from impact damage.

The normal recommend is UBS120 but I would suggest that OVER4, a stone chip protector, would be better.  It will resist in-use scuffing and stone damage well and not be bothered by jet washing.


Products, quantities and prices.

Fertan rust converter - have five litres, probable use is 3-4

OVER4 - I've a customer who regularly improves the protection on new land rovers prior to exporting them and they use 6 - 8 litres per vehicle.

In all honesty, I realise that some of the products are not cheap, but I know of people who swear by Fertan (it's my girlfriends dads mini bits on the Fertan site), and if it guarantees a rust free Land Rover for years to come, it can't be bad.

I will be doing my 90 as soon as I get chance!!



Ian

[dew1911]

E-mailed Fertan to see how much I'll need, now I need to work out how to remove Waxoyle from him.