AuthorTopic: Advice on Home Made Snorkel  (Read 1292 times)

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Offline Skibum346

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« on: June 20, 2006, 11:51:01 »
Guys & Gals (Cuz I Know there are loadsa Mud Club Gasl out there),

I've been planning a home made snorkel for a wee while and the time has come to get the cutting tools out  :shock:

Just thought I'd check with you guru's out there first though...  

Anything I need to be prepared for?

As it's not a custom built safari snorkel it'll be going in just forward of drivers door (so I can keep a close eye on it in close manoeuvering situations). I'll be using a long length of flexible hose to reach up to the snorkel top inside some plastic drainpipe to get over issues with waterproofing of joints.

Wish me luck folks! :?

Skibum

Offline BrumLee

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Re: Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2006, 14:11:12 »
Quote from: "Skibum346"
Wish me luck folks!


Good luck and supply us with some lovely pictures please  :wink:
Lee from Brum

Offline Skibum346

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Pics..?!
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2006, 14:52:59 »
Jeez... as if cutting into my lovely pristine 1990 Disco wing aint enough pressure... you lot want pics as well?!

No problem...

Skibum

Offline Skibum346

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2006, 00:32:03 »
Here is the story so far...

I’ve been planning a home made snorkel for over 18 months now. Firstly for the 1984 Range Rover I had but that has sadly passed on (still looking for a home for the stripped chassis & body, gearbox & engine!). I bought a proper mushroom top last year at Billing for I think £20, a length of 68mm black drainpipe and a handful of angled joints at the local DIY store in preparation for it. Since getting Chugaboom, my 1990 V8 Discovery, The plan has been resurrected.

I’m going out on Sunday with a few fellow Mud Clubbers and so I spent a couple of hours today searching the web looking for suitable flexi hose to use to connect the rigid external part of my planned snorkel to the airbox. With little success.

So, in an effort to please our rambling friends… of to the scrappers and within ten minutes I had three lengths of varied flexible air intake pipe. £2 the lot.

Tonight, I started the design process and thought I’d share it with you lot.

After juggling the various bits of flexi pipe I chose the one that was a nice tight fit for the airbox and happily it was also a nice tight fit for the drainpipe. One end was jubilee clipped to the airbox, the other, after a bit of thought to get it round the oil filler spout, to a short length of drainpipe. This then connected to a 45° bend, a longer straight piece of drainpipe, another of the flexipipes to give manoeuvring room going through the wing and finally to a short piece of pipe.

It’s worth noting that the short lengths of pipe are useful for connecting bends. The bends do not joint together directly but with a little careful measuring and a few attempts at cutting a STRAIGHT cut I found that short pieces did the job.

On the outside, working down from the mushroom top we have a 45° bend, a straight length, a piece of flexi intake pipe (left over from a planned rebuild on my old Classsic. It’s a new part through Land Rover Classic Parts… trouble is… they come in bags of ten… but I think the bag only cost me about £7… and I have 8 left!), a straight piece for along the wing and finally a 90° bend that once the wing is cut, will link up with the engine bay half.

To support the snorkel I found a couple of brackets at the local DIY store (B&Q but I’m sure others have something similar) two flat ones about 100mm x 40mm that slot nicely behind the A pillar and still allow the door to operate unhindered. These will be used to support the top part of the snorkel. A single angle bracket will support the section along the wing. I’m not planning to drill into the pipe to fix, rather I’ll use jubilee clips in the hope they’ll be strong enough.

All of the drainpipe is cemented together with Marley Solvent Cement that essentially welds the plastic of each piece together providing a watertight seal.

I have all the pipe work made up tonight, tomorrow I cut the wing, rivet the brackets and fix the pieces in place. I’ll take more shots and post them then… hopefully to critical acclaim!

Here are the parts required:

Mushroom Top   1
68mm Drainpipe   1
90° Bend   1
45° Bend   4
Flexi Pipe from Air Intake Valve on Range Rover 1984 (Part No.613519)   1
Flexi Pipe from Vauxhall (Scrap Yard)   1
Flexi Pipe from Citreon? (Scrap Yard)   1
Large Jubilee Clips   7
Marley Solvent Cement KS2   1
Flat Bracket   2
Angle Bracket   1
Edge Trim   1 Metre
Rivets   10

All the pictures are in my gallery and I’m happy to answer any questions.

Skibum

Step by Step Pics

Offline spy

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2006, 00:20:46 »
I did the DIY drainpipe snokel thing on my series 3 (see http://www.landyworld.co.uk/diylandroversnorkel.htm) but bottled it for the disco and coughed up for a safari snorkel.  That looks like a nice job you have done there!  

Mike
110 2.5 Petrol LPG powered
Discovery 300tdi - Sold to Sooty
Discovery 200tdi  - SPY - SOLD
Series 3 - XUXY - SOLD :(

www.landyworld.co.uk

Offline Skibum346

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2006, 00:27:45 »
Spy,

Thanks Matey \:D/

IT didn't seem any more complex than your build (which I refered to so hats off!) except for the drilling through the wing... Somehow flat matt green panels are less painful to drill than a glossy black curved one!

Thanks

Frank

Offline spy

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2006, 00:55:14 »
You may say that but I can assure you my arse was twitching none the less :D

Then again, maybe I am just a wimp because cutting the hole for the safari snorkel was bad enough and I had a template for that!  

Cheers,

Mike
110 2.5 Petrol LPG powered
Discovery 300tdi - Sold to Sooty
Discovery 200tdi  - SPY - SOLD
Series 3 - XUXY - SOLD :(

www.landyworld.co.uk

Offline Skibum346

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2006, 01:05:52 »
Spy,

I drew round the pipe that was to go through to make sure it was positioned correctly (cut the hole out of an A4 sheet and drew on the wing with marker pen). Then it was just a case of getting a hole saw big enough but not too big.

For 68mm pipe I used an 86mm hole saw and this gave plenty of work room, room for an edge strip and space to pass the breather pipe through.

Nest time you are driving a Disco with no snorkel... pull into B&Q and stick one on!

Frank

Offline TimM

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2006, 21:13:32 »
Advice for when you've finished:

There is no point having a snorkel if it leaks, the engine will be sucking water in from any leaks you have so it may as well be not fitted....

Test the snorkel out of the water by blocking the airway at the top (with the engine running) and the engine should stall through lack of air, if it keeps running its getting air from somewhere (and would probably suck water in through the same place).
Tim
1995 Discovery 300TDi ES Manual (Dave)
2009 Range Rover TDV8

In the area? Notts / Derbys / S.Yorks Pub Meet click here


Offline Skibum346

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Advice on Home Made Snorkel
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2006, 07:02:53 »
Tim,

Yer absolutely right... Happily it stalls perfectly! If that's not a stupid statement!

Skibum

 






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